Oil suggestions for new 383 Stroker
06-27-2015, 04:59 AM
#1
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Oil suggestions for new 383 Stroker Yes, I searched and found a lot of different inconsistent info from various sites etc.
So, got my new 383 built and shop put in 5w30 conventional for initial break in and 300 miles. Oil was changed at 307 miles, I think they put in 15w40.
My builder suggested a thick oil as it has "looser" clearances than factory and he mentioned the summer heat stuck in traffic. The motor has about 1400 miles on it now. I kinda wanna do another oil change just cause. Another concern is I do drive it here in Canada Feb-November where the early and late year we get cold 20-30 F when she comes out of storage or before it gets stored.
When can I switch to a synthetic (Royal Purple or Amsoil). Thinking 10w40 or 20w50. Too soon?
And another one, will my motor make more power as the motor gets more miles?
Thanks for any input, back to searching.
So, got my new 383 built and shop put in 5w30 conventional for initial break in and 300 miles. Oil was changed at 307 miles, I think they put in 15w40.
My builder suggested a thick oil as it has "looser" clearances than factory and he mentioned the summer heat stuck in traffic. The motor has about 1400 miles on it now. I kinda wanna do another oil change just cause. Another concern is I do drive it here in Canada Feb-November where the early and late year we get cold 20-30 F when she comes out of storage or before it gets stored.
When can I switch to a synthetic (Royal Purple or Amsoil). Thinking 10w40 or 20w50. Too soon?
And another one, will my motor make more power as the motor gets more miles?
Thanks for any input, back to searching.
06-27-2015, 09:12 AM
#2
06-27-2015, 09:55 AM
#3
ya I would say somewhere in the 15w-40 should be ok. However rotella is made for diesels so it wont last nearly as long in a gas motor. Look into Valvoline VR1 it come in 20w-50, its avialble in conventional or synthetic and had over 1300ppm of zinc which is almost double of what most other off the shelf brands have. best of all the conventional is in stores for 6bucks a qt or cheaper online. it has to be vr1 though none of the other oils from valvoline have the added zinc
06-27-2015, 10:05 AM
#4
06-27-2015, 10:09 AM
#5
Its a good oil lol I use it in my car except for right now because the motor is still breaking in. I have to order it online or pay a lot for it at NAPA by me since I need the 10w-30 weight and no one stocks that locally. 20w-50 is available anywhere though
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06-27-2015, 10:30 AM
#8
06-27-2015, 11:16 PM
#9
Lot of mystery and misinformation about oil, especially viscosity.
Viscosity of any liquid is measured at a standard temperature and pressure. And that's important. The viscosity of any liquid will change with the temp. You need to have a standard that's easy to compare. Also, viscosity numbers mean different things with different types of oils. For example, an 80 weight gear oil is not twice as thick as a 40 wt motor oil. The listed viscosity of a motor oil is a range if kinematic viscosity, and not a specific number.
http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto..._explained.htm
The difference in kinematic viscosity between 0W, 5W, and 10W is pretty small. But 20W is a big jump up. For cold weather, I would suggest avoiding the 20W oils.
The "thicker" oils like 40 and 50 have their place. You need enough viscosity at operating temp to maintain appropriate oil pressure, and no more. Thicker oil wastes energy, slows down oil flow, and puts extra strain on oil pump components. Thicker/heavier is not always better. A lot of new engines call for a 0W-20 oil for general street use.
If your engine builder tells you he built the engine for a 40 weight oil, that's what you should use. Considering where you live, a quality 5W-40 would be a good choice.
After 5-6 heat cycles, you can change to a true synthetic oil. There are only 4 true synthetics that I know of: Royal Purple, Red Line, Amsoil, and Schaeffer. If you're using a semi-synthetic you can switch over a lot sooner, since it's really just dino oil.
Viscosity of any liquid is measured at a standard temperature and pressure. And that's important. The viscosity of any liquid will change with the temp. You need to have a standard that's easy to compare. Also, viscosity numbers mean different things with different types of oils. For example, an 80 weight gear oil is not twice as thick as a 40 wt motor oil. The listed viscosity of a motor oil is a range if kinematic viscosity, and not a specific number.
http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto..._explained.htm
The difference in kinematic viscosity between 0W, 5W, and 10W is pretty small. But 20W is a big jump up. For cold weather, I would suggest avoiding the 20W oils.
The "thicker" oils like 40 and 50 have their place. You need enough viscosity at operating temp to maintain appropriate oil pressure, and no more. Thicker oil wastes energy, slows down oil flow, and puts extra strain on oil pump components. Thicker/heavier is not always better. A lot of new engines call for a 0W-20 oil for general street use.
If your engine builder tells you he built the engine for a 40 weight oil, that's what you should use. Considering where you live, a quality 5W-40 would be a good choice.
After 5-6 heat cycles, you can change to a true synthetic oil. There are only 4 true synthetics that I know of: Royal Purple, Red Line, Amsoil, and Schaeffer. If you're using a semi-synthetic you can switch over a lot sooner, since it's really just dino oil.
06-28-2015, 10:35 AM
#11
you couldnt pay me to put that crap in my engine..... im a little confused you asked us what the best oil was, we gave you answers based on experience and you didnt follow it? if you dont want to run a 20-50 then the vr1 also comes in 10-30. joe gibbs is another one to look at for good oil
06-28-2015, 01:06 PM
#13
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AMSOIL Z-Rod 10W-30 & 20W-50 High Zinc 1200+ PPM ZDDP
With anti-corrosion & rust inhibitors for vehicles that sit over
Winter, also 10W-40 Premium Protection with 1200 PPM ZDDP.
I would run 10w-40 while ambient is 40*+ and switch to
Z-Rod 10W-30 when cold and prior to storage,
(October-March), and back After hibernation and warmer weather.
I would also run this oil cycle to 1500 mile with assertive break in,
Hopefully still non-synthetic.
26 Year AMSOIL User.
My .02
With anti-corrosion & rust inhibitors for vehicles that sit over
Winter, also 10W-40 Premium Protection with 1200 PPM ZDDP.
I would run 10w-40 while ambient is 40*+ and switch to
Z-Rod 10W-30 when cold and prior to storage,
(October-March), and back After hibernation and warmer weather.
I would also run this oil cycle to 1500 mile with assertive break in,
Hopefully still non-synthetic.
26 Year AMSOIL User.
My .02
Last edited by NAVYBLUE210; 06-28-2015 at 01:18 PM.
06-29-2015, 09:13 AM
#14
I'm going based off experiences friends have had and also through my own research on google. If you type in royal purple engine failure, you'll find quite a few pages. From what I have seen it has a very high shear. Also quite frankly for the price of RP i'd rather get an oil theres no controversy about like redline or amsoil.
06-29-2015, 11:20 AM
#16
I'm going based off experiences friends have had and also through my own research on google. If you type in royal purple engine failure, you'll find quite a few pages. From what I have seen it has a very high shear. Also quite frankly for the price of RP i'd rather get an oil theres no controversy about like redline or amsoil.
I did the google search. Interesting opinions and little facts. Some damage and failures might actually have come from the oil (RP). A lot of it was old info - like 2010 - which I thought was interesting. I also did a similar search for Red Line. Came up with pretty much the same thing.
Here's all I can tell. I'v been using RP in my 600hp road racing SBF stroker for about 10 years. Every 2 years, I tear the engine down and replace the wear items - rings, bearings, etc. Plastigauge before and after are well within specs, and engine is very clean inside.
I also use RP in my Harley. An air cooled engine can be a tough environment. I switched to RP after doing a UOA on M1, and was not impressed. Based on UOA's, the RP clearly superior to the M1.
This spring I decided to try some Valvoline VR, just to see what happens. It's only got 4,000 miles on it; pretty soon I'll draw a sample for Blackstone.
Now, that's based on one guy, two very different motors, and 10 years of use in tough environments. Not very scientific, so take it for what it's worth.
06-30-2015, 11:25 AM
#17
AMSOIL Z-Rod 10W-30 & 20W-50 High Zinc 1200+ PPM ZDDP
With anti-corrosion & rust inhibitors for vehicles that sit over
Winter, also 10W-40 Premium Protection with 1200 PPM ZDDP.
I would run 10w-40 while ambient is 40*+ and switch to
Z-Rod 10W-30 when cold and prior to storage,
(October-March), and back After hibernation and warmer weather.
I would also run this oil cycle to 1500 mile with assertive break in,
Hopefully still non-synthetic.
26 Year AMSOIL User.
My .02
With anti-corrosion & rust inhibitors for vehicles that sit over
Winter, also 10W-40 Premium Protection with 1200 PPM ZDDP.
I would run 10w-40 while ambient is 40*+ and switch to
Z-Rod 10W-30 when cold and prior to storage,
(October-March), and back After hibernation and warmer weather.
I would also run this oil cycle to 1500 mile with assertive break in,
Hopefully still non-synthetic.
26 Year AMSOIL User.
My .02
Been running AMSOIL in every vehicle I've owned for the past 28 yrs. I built a new 383 SC Stroker for the truck, using the AMSOIL break in oil right now and then switch to 10W-30 just before I add the SC and put it on the Dyno. I also run the AMSOIL Sever Gear in the rear end.
AMSOIL, can't beat it!
Chad
