Oil Pan Gasket Seal LS1 GenIII
06-28-2015, 09:19 PM
#1
Oil Pan Gasket Seal LS1 GenIII I have a Gen III ls1 motor. any tricks to sealing the oil pan gasket. I am putting into a frame up car and want to do it once. I am used to the tricks on the old bbc and sbc but first time on ls1. Thanks...
Last edited by dannyj661; 06-29-2015 at 09:22 AM.
06-29-2015, 06:52 AM
#3
On The Tree
Join Date: May 2014
Location: FortLauderdale/Orlando
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The seams between the front and rear covers and the block should also receive some extra attention with the rtv.
I applied a thin coat of some Loctite gasket sealer to the entire gasket when I replaced my pan.
I applied a thin coat of some Loctite gasket sealer to the entire gasket when I replaced my pan.
06-29-2015, 08:36 AM
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: My own internal universe
Posts: 10,446
Received 1,838 Likes
on
1,146 Posts
If you have removed the covers, I suggest renting the cover alignment tools (or buying them). This will get your covers perfectly even and square with your block. If they are not, you'll catch hell regardless of the amount of RTV you use.
06-29-2015, 09:18 AM
#5
I've installed a lot of these gaskets, just a little rtv where the corners of the covers meet is fine. no need to go crazy as the gaskets are much better than any paper gasket used on an old sbc.
if you do remove the front and rear covers make sure to align them properly like darth said. Personally I have never used the tool and havent had an issue. Just be careful on how you put them on. I put the front cover on and leave the bolts loose then I seat the balancers which centers the cover. after that I just tighten the bolts around the seal snug then tighten them all in a normal fashion.
the rear cover is a little trick and is more prone to leaking. when you get the new rear main leave the white plastic piece in the seal. Then when you go to install the covers you'll notice the hole in the plastic fits perfectly over the crank snout, this is done to keep the cover aligned when you install it. Then again simply put rtv on the bottom corners and tighten the bolts around the seal first, the reason I say to do this is because it will keep the seal and housing from moving when you tighten the bolts further away down.
if you do remove the front and rear covers make sure to align them properly like darth said. Personally I have never used the tool and havent had an issue. Just be careful on how you put them on. I put the front cover on and leave the bolts loose then I seat the balancers which centers the cover. after that I just tighten the bolts around the seal snug then tighten them all in a normal fashion.
the rear cover is a little trick and is more prone to leaking. when you get the new rear main leave the white plastic piece in the seal. Then when you go to install the covers you'll notice the hole in the plastic fits perfectly over the crank snout, this is done to keep the cover aligned when you install it. Then again simply put rtv on the bottom corners and tighten the bolts around the seal first, the reason I say to do this is because it will keep the seal and housing from moving when you tighten the bolts further away down.
06-29-2015, 09:21 AM
#6
Thanks guys. I have the long block together and wanted to add the drain line for the turbo. I know should have done it when it was off but first ls and first turbo. So if its on the stand and I just drop the pan clean it up and put some RTV silicon on the front and rear covers. I will not be taking them off. Thanks