Suggestion for displacement on lq4 build.
#1
Staging Lane
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Suggestion for displacement on lq4 build.
My lq4 got some bearing knock on the dyno due to low oil pressure so it's time for a rebuild. I am looking for suggestions for what cubes to go with. I was originally going to go with a 408 but I'm wondering if I should go smaller to keep more of the cylinder wall material since I plan on going turbo in the near future. Not sure what else you would need to know other than the fact I plan on turbo. I'm not worried about heads/cam as those will be chosen later. I just want as much longevity as possible with decent street manners. The plan is to have somewhere north of 600rwhp with the turbo but nothing too crazy.
Here's what I currently have:
240sx with lq4 swap
t56
twin disk
80LB injectors
AEM stand alone
TSP cam
317 heads
Here are the things running through my head:
408 stroker kit from TSP
Smaller stroker kit from TSP (not sure what other size I would go with)
Factory cube rebuild with forged rods/pistons if I can salvage the crank
Completely factory rebuild with replacing on what's needed
If you need to know anything else let me know. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Here's what I currently have:
240sx with lq4 swap
t56
twin disk
80LB injectors
AEM stand alone
TSP cam
317 heads
Here are the things running through my head:
408 stroker kit from TSP
Smaller stroker kit from TSP (not sure what other size I would go with)
Factory cube rebuild with forged rods/pistons if I can salvage the crank
Completely factory rebuild with replacing on what's needed
If you need to know anything else let me know. Thanks in advance for any advice.
#2
Launching!
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If you "only" want 600 I doubt you'd want to spend the extra coin on 4XX cubes unless you want room to grow. You could do forged rods/pistons and just bore it .030" or .005" over and have yourself a nice 370 or 365. Honestly if it's already coming apart i'd put the stronger forged parts in it. I know budget builds are cool but the added strength will give you a little peace of mind.
#5
TECH Junkie
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My thinking is by doing a minimal hone you can save the meat of the block for further rebuilds if necessary while still staying within a range of good wall thickness and a plethora of available parts.
If you're at 0.030 over and you need a rebuild you're starting to run out of easily available options past that point unless you go to a custom piston or jump up to LS3 size bores which is starting to push the limits of the block as not all of them can go that much over.
#6
11 Second Club
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The op could just 2 step hone .005" and have decent ring seal for an N/A application, however there is a science to boring say the first .025" with a cutter, then three step honing the remaining .005" out with a final few licks of the flapper wheel on a drill. He did mention boost right ????
Microscopically speaking the cutter forms the base to create what's referred to as the plateau hone finish. When combined with a quality set of Speed Pro Hell Fire rings and Total Seal Quick Seat will help the slug slammin' fury stay on the north side !!!!
#7
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Thanks for all the suggestions. Sounds like I should go stock displacement if possible. Stock rods and pistons are good for my goal I'm assuming? Are arp main/rod bolts necessary?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.