Hello everyone, just want to get some recommendations from this group on a CAM choice for my 383 build. I would like to be in the 500hp range (or higher) but don't know if this is possible based on what I have. All internals are forged, Eagle crank, H-Beam rods, Weisco Pistons and 243 heads. I plan on a 102 Fast intake with complementing throttle body. Texas Speed recommends a 242/250 .612/.615 114lsa cam and claims I would get fairly close. I just like to get a feel for what you guys are running with similar parts and what your HP numbers are like. Also, what brand for CAM is recommended? This is going in my 69 Camaro and I would like to enjoy driving it around without it being harsh. -Thx

 

What's done to the heads?

 

If those heads are stock, send them to AI for porting. You won't hit 500 on stock 243's. That plus cam motion Titan 5 or tick street heat 2 should get you close if not over.

 

I AGREE with Darth_V8r!!
Also MAMOFY the FAST for another 12-18 RWHP + Torque
With your application!

 

Should have mentioned that they are stock heads. Was trying to keep budget reasonable. Still getting used to all the acronyms but who is AI?

 

Never mind. AI = Advanced Induction

 

Should have mentioned that they are stock heads.

 

Yep. If you price it, since you already have the heads, you are looking at $1k plus shipping for a 226 or 232 cc intake runner. You'll have a hard time beating that benefit / price ratio. I'd go with the 232 option, since they are the same price anyway, and you're going bigger cubes. If you were staying stock cubes, I'd go 226.

FWIW, there are 500 RWHP cars using AI 226 ported 243 heads on stock cubes, AND there are 500+ rwhp cars using AFR and MMS heads. You might consider pricing a heads/cam/intake package from Tony Mamo, stay on stock cubes, and save some money - unless you already have all the stuff for the 383, in which case, build it.

 

I have a fast 102 kit that includes fuel rails,bolts,gaskets,& fuel pressure gauge
That I am putting up for Sale. If interested pm me.

 

The cubes won't help you much if it can't breathe. You need the heads ported or you are going to be pretty disappointed in the HP results IMO.

 

I run AFR 210 heads with an LG G5X3 cam on an LS1 and it's a beast. Building a new motor so the heads will be for sale shortly.

LG cams are awesome.

 

AFR210s would work awesome on your 383! Tony made 600+ FWHP,
520 RWHP with AFR 205s with 234*/238* 114*+2* ~.610"/.600"
With FAST 90, before 92 & 102 had been made yet!
210s were the next generation replacement for the 205s.
Probably worth 50-60 HP vs stock 243s on 383 with medium to large
Cam.

 

This is all really good information and I'm grateful. I already have my bottom end built and now looking to start on the top end but wanted to get feedback from the consensus. I live a few hours away from Houston so I may get the 2.5 Stage porting job from Texas Speed.

 

That's a good option as well. Once you start arguing over professional port jobs, you're probably splitting hairs (unless it's Tony Mamo). The main thing is to get the heads ported by a reputable company.

 

Reasonable budget yields reasonable results (or worse).

Don't be short sighted.....think of all the time money and effort invested thus far to get where you are. Stopping short now at the point in the build that actually dictates the type of power your going to be making is silly. Stroker engines need good heads and complimenting components to really shine....they have a larger appetite for air and without handling this properly only provide very mediocre results with decent torque off the bottom and then falling on their face when your expecting the engine to really come on as it starts to RPM.....the exact opposite trait of any real performance engine.

500 to the ground with an HR (hydraulic roller) 383 in a combination that still drives nice isn't a lay up. You need a good set of heads to get there. My new 220's are designed/optimized around a 3.900 bore engine and will get you where you want to go in a combination that's explosive and fun to drive because of how efficient they are. You don't want a 240+ cam in a 383 if your looking for good all around power and with a better set of heads you don't need that much cam to get to 500.

I would love to help you with a combination that's explosive, fun to drive with excellent part throttle response, and will actually make the big power you want but the "have your cake and eat it too" scenario always costs a little more upfront but your loving it for the entire duration of ownership. Whats that worth? Its always been worth alot in my book.

When it comes to making power and determining how efficient or inefficient a particular package will be, cylinder heads are the most important single purchase you will make concerning the end results of your build. This is a fact.....not an opinion. All the other parts play supporting roles to the heads.....that's it in a nutshell.

Porting stock heads only get you so far....most don't flow anywhere near what they claim and the only way to make them flow more is by increasing the size of the port making them less efficient. A clean sheet design actually ADDS material in key areas helping flow, airspeed, and cylinder fill really boosting performance and the benefit of a design like this at part throttle is awesome. On my flowbench regardless of whats actually advertised. most OEM ported heads flow 290's to low 300's (some in the 280's) and the ports are usually in the 225-235 cc range. I have tested some 240 cc ports that flowed 290 CFM....that's just plain horrible and the results on any engine they were installed on would be highly disappointing (big name shop I may add....not some obscure deal).

See this thread on my new 220 heads if you haven't already.....there is alot of good tech in this thread that expands beyond cylinder heads at this point.....its a good read for most

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...on-inside.html

PS.....Darth_V8r......nice upgrade to the avatar.....LOL

 

Thanks Tony! And I agree with your post. a budget port is a budget port. You're splitting hairs. Unless you go all out and do it right the first time

 

 

Cam motion penetrator. 230/238 112+4.
Tick street heat 231/235 111+2

 

I was under the impression AFR heads like a smaller split between intake and exhaust duration?

 

Ari69 Congratulations on acquiring the AFR210 Heads, you will be Very
Pleased with your results. Regarding camshaft selection I will first suggest
Having Kip @ CAM MOTION grind your cam for 2 very important reasons
One better quality steel, and two milder lobe ramps which will allow
Better stability of your valvetrain and better reliability/longevity.
That said the exhaust on those heads flows so well that Tony normally
Recommends 4* more exhaust duration on NA applications that have
good headers And exhaust systems.
Using factory Rockers with a trunion upgrade 1st choice CHE Bushing
2nd choice BTR trunion upgrade I would limit lift to .610"/.590"
Due to the bronze valve guides. With aftermarket rockers (Tony
Likes Yella Terra) I would go .630"/.610", the ultimate set-up a
Low Lash Solid Roller from Kip .650"/.630", that address the lift
Portion.
235*/239* would provide enough duration to Peak~ 6500RPM and carry
To ~7000RPM and provide EXCELLANT street manners!
LSA I would go 114*+2* but you might like something more
Aggressive, discuss with the pros! Add 11.0:1-11.5:1 Compression and a FAST 102
Especially Ported by Tony (worth another 10-12 RWHP) & NW 102 TB
ARH 1 7/8 or 1 7/8-2" Step headers with a light clutch and wheels
Should reach 520+ RWHP with attention to all the details.
Again that's my .02 Talk with Tony & Kip!