This ^^^^

 

Thanks guys! I'm really kind of excited to see how the 4.30 gears do. And the more I think about it, the more I'm thinking to re-do the clutch hydraulics.

it's funny, but you can go one mod too far, and I think i'd like to put some effort into making it "nicer" to drive. Turning in parking lots will be a great example! The bit of extra gear I think will help get out of the lower RPM a bit sooner. And the hydraulics should help with launch AND make it a bit more pleasant to drive.

The trick now will be to make it "nicer" without making it slower lol.

 

Yeah I'm thinking of upgrading my slave cylinder while the car is down again. I have a tick master with stock size bore so that should work well but I'm worried about the GM slave. RPS makes a modified Tilton setup that I just ordered from Mamo. I might wait to install it to get the car going but I'll probably regret it if I don't just do it now.

Driving a spool on the street is definitely not fun especially in parking lots lol. With as much as you drive the car I could see you wanting to switch it. They're so much cheaper than wavetrac and trutrac, but for a daily most people don't like them. I don't think you're going to lose anything going to a wavetrac, especially going with a 4.30 gear. The car will most likely run better at the track with that setup and your 26" bias ply tires.

 

I went from a 7/8 tick back to a stock master and driveabikity improved a lot. I may even go down to a custom 5/8 master yet. You don't need a big *** master with these little twin discs. That's what actually makes your drivability Shitty.

The lower gears will help a lot too.

 

I actually just saw that tilton makes a 0.700 bore master. I'm waiting for confirmation from tick that it will bolt to the mounting wedge used for the 7/8" master. I agree a smaller master will restore some of the enjoyment of driving it.

It's not horrible by any means, but it can use the refinement

 

I'll likely try a smaller one at some point to

 

MOAR UPDATES:

OK, rather than tie the internal section up with suspension details, I'll start a thread over in the suspension section. But, since this thread is my build thread....

I ditched the Viking Warriors in favor of Strano / UMI / AFCO kit. "But WAIT!", you say, "That's a road race kit, not a drag race kit!" True. But after doing the research and talking to experts, I learned that the road racing shocks dyno very similarly to the rear drag shocks. If you're compressing the shocks from horsepower or body roll, what's the difference? I can run lighter springs on track day and adjust the damping. But I DD 99% and track 1%. I need to build for the intended use of the car. Both Menscer and Strano have said it's the right kit for the car. And that the car was overpowering the shocks, resulting in power not getting transferred at launch, which explains a little bit

I have not driven it yet, but I can tell you the many issues I was having with the vikings appear to be gone just based on how much more solid the axle is under the rear while suspended. I'll go into more detail int he suspension section.. It was bad, though. Not flaming Viking. Wrong shock for my application is all it is.

And now, for the most expensive phrase in hotrodding (other than "I think I want a hot rod") -- "While I'm in there..."

1. I had some issues with the way the brakes were mounted. I ended up chamfering the mounts and using tapered headed bolts. I also up-sized the bolts and tapped the spindle mount holes (vs straight through). Got rid of some noises and other clearance issues that the two-piece rotors created.

2. I did install the .700" master. So far, pedal feel is pretty good. Haven't driven it yet to know how it shifts, but I'm hoping to gain a bit wider engagement window to help slip the clutch on launch. We will see. soon enough. I pulled the brake booster to make this swap easier, ended up stripping a bolt and had to re-remove it to clean the threads up with a die. :facepalm: Bled out quite nicely.

3. Cooling mod. OK, first, shout out to HioSSilver on this one. I'm not posting pics, because it's really his idea. He gives away a lot of really good information from time to time, and I gleaned this one off one of his posts in a different section. can't remember where. But I ran a custom cross-over return that I'm expecting to cool the heads about 5-10 degrees to both help with the damned AZ heat and also to hopefully allow a degree or two more timing.

I'll report back after bleeding out the cooling system and getting some road time in. If all goes well, I should be hooking better AND driving more comfortably, so a win!

 

I gots me a shout out!


I think you will like the strano set up much better.

 

Nice upgrades Darth. Anxious to hear how you like it on the street. I know you said the suspension felt very bouncy on the street and you drive this car a ton. The car definitely needs to be enjoyable to drive for you. I bet the upgrades even help at the track as well. I'll check out your suspension thread too

 

Good luck Jaik. I am curious how those Coil overs do for you despite the high spring rate

Good job Hio.

 

Thanks guys! Mike, I think I saw in the drag racing tech section you were having similar issues to mine. I'll def keep posted.

Here's the link to the review in the suspension section to avoid cluttering up the internal engine:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...l#post19681459

 

OK, so a quick update after the first drive on the new mods:

1. Suspension - Big improvement. YUGE! I need to do some fine tuning, but first impression was really nice.

2. Clutch master - The pedal feels like my daughter's 97 V6 camaro now. I was able to slip at launch. I think for these lighter multi-disc clutches a smaller master might be the way to go.

3. Cooling mod - I'm running four degrees cooler in July vs May. Enough of a difference I can see in on the gauge.

 

Can you describe the cooling mod? Will it work with a Fast? Since I have low shift points no need for me to upgrade.

 

It's basically running four separate cooling lines off the heads. Should work with a fast 102. The MSD looks smaller but is actually bigger and harder to work around. So if you're staying with the fast should be ok

 

I'm also interested . Do you mean just instead of block off in back you cross over the lines from each head?

 

Uses all four "steam lines". It gives coolant and bubbles more avenues of escape to bleed any steam/air from the cooling system, enabling better cooling.

 

G has the right idea. There's a trickflow kit that does this, but it won't fit the MSD so I had to buy Earle fittings and run the hoses myself. And I didn't merge them in the traditional sense. I ran them all separately back to the radiator.

 

I did the same on HioSSilver's recommendation. I ran swivel style 90* fittings on all 4 steam vents and then 4an line from each to an overflow style tank and mounted it to my cylinder head. I made sure it was the highest point of the coolant system to bleed off air properly. Now it is how I fill the coolant system also. I no longer use the radiator cap to fill. Then on the bottom of the tank I ran a line from the tank to the rad hose.

Here's a vid with the water pump running looking inside the tank. It's crazy to see how much water flows through those vents.

 

Nice aaron! I didn't know you made a vid. Those little lines move alot of water. It's a trick that has been used on race cars for a long time.



I run all 4 steam vents into a surge tank. Then plum that back into the upper rad hose. With the surge tank up as high as you can get it you can basically block off your rad fill neck and fill your system from the expansion/surge tank. You also need no overflow tank then. The system can also hold more coolant because of the surge tank.

 

Thanks! I took the vid to show some people how much water they actually flow. I was surprised myself really. I don't know why GM blocked them off after 98 or 99. I can't remember when but it seems to be a good mod to open the back up and Darth seems to have shown that with cooler engine temps already