Coolant in the oil
Coolant in the oil I have an 02 5.7 shortblock from a camaro in my 67 camaro I picked it up from a guy that was going with a crate engine. I installed a set of 243/799 heads, Tr224 cam springs etc. It may have 50 miles on it since in my car. Ive been noticing coolant disapearing, but no trace of it (oil is ok). I find the oil milky today after a quick fire up. I mean really milky. I installed Felpro new head gaskets and new factory head bolts (torqued as the manual specified with a gauge+torque) when the cam was installed.
I am an engine guy, but I thought there might be an LS specific problem possibly. I am starting to tear into it. Not Castech heads. Anything specific to look for? I'm thinking its gotta be a head gasket. Should I go with different head gaskets and ARP studs this time? If I don't find a gasket issue, I guess I'll need to have the heads pressure tested (or the block).
Thanks,
Shannon
I am an engine guy, but I thought there might be an LS specific problem possibly. I am starting to tear into it. Not Castech heads. Anything specific to look for? I'm thinking its gotta be a head gasket. Should I go with different head gaskets and ARP studs this time? If I don't find a gasket issue, I guess I'll need to have the heads pressure tested (or the block).
Thanks,
Shannon
Yep, backed out of the garage checked the oil and saw it milky, then right back in and started pulling coils and valve covers. I've checked the oil each time I've driven it. Every other time the oil was very clear.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 40
Likes: 5
My 2003 Silverado with a 4.8L and 862 heads was using coolant, and most of it
was getting into a combustion chamber. I was able to isolate it to the passenger
side head gasket. Got the head rebuilt and installed with a Felpro head gasket
and GM bolts. Coolant was still getting into the combustion chamber. Tore it
apart and reinstalled with a GM MLS head gasket (with copper spray) and ARP
head bolts. After running for 30 miles, I retorqued the head bolts and added
three tabs of Bars Stop Leak (freeze plug was leaking on front of head,
probably machine shop hot tank cleaned what was there from using the Bars
on the GM assembly line). Later, I had to retorque the upper outer two head
bolts (short 11mm ones) to finally seal it up. The 4.8L has an iron block, I would
use head studs on an aluminum block to avoid stripping the threads in the block.
Although I've never worked on an aluminum block, a stripped thread would not
be a good situation. The problem with TTY head bolts is they can't be retorqued
and there is always a question on what the real torque is.
Edit: The block threads need to be clean and dry, I used a ARP 912-0011 Chaser.
was getting into a combustion chamber. I was able to isolate it to the passenger
side head gasket. Got the head rebuilt and installed with a Felpro head gasket
and GM bolts. Coolant was still getting into the combustion chamber. Tore it
apart and reinstalled with a GM MLS head gasket (with copper spray) and ARP
head bolts. After running for 30 miles, I retorqued the head bolts and added
three tabs of Bars Stop Leak (freeze plug was leaking on front of head,
probably machine shop hot tank cleaned what was there from using the Bars
on the GM assembly line). Later, I had to retorque the upper outer two head
bolts (short 11mm ones) to finally seal it up. The 4.8L has an iron block, I would
use head studs on an aluminum block to avoid stripping the threads in the block.
Although I've never worked on an aluminum block, a stripped thread would not
be a good situation. The problem with TTY head bolts is they can't be retorqued
and there is always a question on what the real torque is.
Edit: The block threads need to be clean and dry, I used a ARP 912-0011 Chaser.
Last edited by 88bruce; Jul 30, 2015 at 12:17 AM. Reason: thread chaser
I would also check the block/heads for flatness. You can buy a flatness tool for a small amount. I would also go over the block/heads with some 400 grit. I found this puts the surface around 25-30 RA based on measurements I made prior to installing my Cometics. You don't have to go crazy with the cleanup, just get a consistent looking surface. GM MLS gaskets are very forgiving as well. Not sure on the Fel Pro but have read of others having leakage issues.
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Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 40
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A GM MLS gasket has a bead that separates the lifter area and the coolant
steam holes. A Felpro doesn't have this bead.
The other place where coolant gets in the oil is under the valve cover through
cracks around the head bolts, i.e.; Castech 706 heads.
If it only took 50 miles to get a significant amount of coolant in the oil, there
has to be either a major leak into the lifter area caused by under torqued
bolts/inferior gasket, or the heads have some serious cracks. If the head gaskets
were leaking a lot of coolant, the engine would not run smooth because coolant
would get into the combustion chambers also.
steam holes. A Felpro doesn't have this bead.
The other place where coolant gets in the oil is under the valve cover through
cracks around the head bolts, i.e.; Castech 706 heads.
If it only took 50 miles to get a significant amount of coolant in the oil, there
has to be either a major leak into the lifter area caused by under torqued
bolts/inferior gasket, or the heads have some serious cracks. If the head gaskets
were leaking a lot of coolant, the engine would not run smooth because coolant
would get into the combustion chambers also.
Last edited by 88bruce; May 31, 2016 at 07:23 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
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The other factor is you said the short block "was picked up from a guy who was
going with a crate engine". Why would he do that unless there was a problem
with the short block? Could a cracked liner cause your problems? Not everybody
is honest, and you have to consider that he knew there was a problem and
failed to relay that information, i.e..; he lied.
going with a crate engine". Why would he do that unless there was a problem
with the short block? Could a cracked liner cause your problems? Not everybody
is honest, and you have to consider that he knew there was a problem and
failed to relay that information, i.e..; he lied.
OK ,well the result is a cracked block. Just outside the #1 cylinder right over to the cooling passage.
OK, now the next question. I see all the major auto stores (Jeg's etc.) sell the 12561166 block for just less than 1k. All the bearings are perfect in my current engine. My plan is to swap the internals over to a new block. My car already has a PSI harness and everything for a Gen3 setup. I'd like to stay aluminum for weight in my 67 camaro. Any other alternatives?
OK, now the next question. I see all the major auto stores (Jeg's etc.) sell the 12561166 block for just less than 1k. All the bearings are perfect in my current engine. My plan is to swap the internals over to a new block. My car already has a PSI harness and everything for a Gen3 setup. I'd like to stay aluminum for weight in my 67 camaro. Any other alternatives?
