Mamo 220s in 383 stroker
My old LS1 with LTs, duals, FAST, NW 102, StreetSweeper HT 228/232 .612/.600 111 made 433/409 with the peak HP occurring around 6,400. I warned some people that I knew there that it was going to dive around 5,600. The car ran and sounded great on the dyno but the numbers tell the tale. Just as I felt it my torque "curve" was fat and flat as a 10 year old eating lard ***** and although I made slightly less peak torque (It was in a parking lot on a hot day too) it came on earlier and stayed . . . . until at 5,500 everything absolutely nose dived. It made 405/404. If the trajectory had continued like it did before I'd be around 470. Now it's just the waiting game and after install try to find a local dyno to get a comparison pull.
Sorry....it was right there.
Were you logging this run?? It would have liked to see what timing and the A/F ratio did at that point it noses over (and after).
Want to say valve float but its almost to abrupt for that although it could be if alot of the springs are toast.
I'm confident replacing all we are you wont be dealing with that situation again but it would be nice to figure out what happened to the current combo although spending time and money to do that seems silly looking forward.
-Tony
PS.....If you do hit another dyno make sure you log timing and fueling so we can see if there is anything funky going on with the basics. If they both look acceptable I would think your springs are shot.

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Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
I would data log it on the dyno next time and maybe try replacing the valvesprings with some BTR Platinums. You may have 450-470 in the current build...
Stupid. I do have an AFR gauge on the dash and the operator said it was a little lean up top (13.1) but that wouldn't explain the sudden drop off. My timing (I know it can be mitigated by knock etc.) was a pretty conservative 23 degrees, once again may be a factor but I don't think it would cause a dive. I agree the valve train looks like the culprit. The springs are Lunati duals with well under 10,000 miles but they combined with a fairly high lift and possibly aggressive ramp cam was giving me float/bounce. It's good to know though as when I sell the heads I can give the new guy a heads up to change them.
At Tony's suggestion I have some Terra Yella rockers on the way that I will put on when my heads get here. With Tony's assembled heads and spec'd cam along with some thicker walled pushrods it should eliminate any problem in the valve train. I'll tape a note on my windshield to "Push the damn button" next time I get on the dyno.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time

and here's a street log from a couple of weeks ago.
Last edited by svede1212; Aug 23, 2015 at 12:56 PM.
I would get the valvetrain issue fixed now and get a good baseline. I'm not saying stepping up to the 220s is a bad idea, but you have no idea what you'll be getting for all the coin spent. It could be 10HP. It could be 40HP. You don't know. And it sounds like you went to the 220s because you thought the heads were a restriction. But what if it could be something as simple as wrong length pushrods? That's a huge difference between $100 and $3k+ spend on the new topend. And in the end, you may gain the 50+HP missing with just an adjustment in your current top end. And then what? Would it still be worth it to drop all the money for another 10-20HP? And that's an answer I can't answer for you...
I would get the valvetrain issue fixed now and get a good baseline. I'm not saying stepping up to the 220s is a bad idea, but you have no idea what you'll be getting for all the coin spent. It could be 10HP. It could be 40HP. You don't know. And it sounds like you went to the 220s because you thought the heads were a restriction. But what if it could be something as simple as wrong length pushrods? That's a huge difference between $100 and $3k+ spend on the new topend. And in the end, you may gain the 50+HP missing with just an adjustment in your current top end. And then what? Would it still be worth it to drop all the money for another 10-20HP? And that's an answer I can't answer for you...
I needed new heads and may have been able to pick up some better than I have now used or new ones for less but I've dealt with enough questionable stuff to want to do it right once.
I'm not going to get into a pissing contest over this. The heads he has are fucked, obviously. He needs new heads. But there are a lot of issues. So he's not going to be able to do a back-to-back comparison (which is what a lot of people want).
All of this also backs what I discussed earlier in this thread which is the fact peak power is dictated by airflow, not cubic inch, which only increases torque and changes the shape of the power curve a bit (bringing it in sooner with more low/midrange TQ/HP). My 430 - 440 guess is also in line with what his previous 346 combo made with the same parts that dictate how much air the engine can move (heads, induction, exhaust etc.,) so that makes logical sense as well. Also....and this is a good tidbit for you guys to file away....most of these LS engines that we are discussing (street/strip 7000 or so RPM etc.) make their peak power 1500-1800 past peak torque which in this case would be right around 6000 RPM.
This engine would have never made 470 RWHP....its almost impossible to do that with a small engine only making around 400 ft/lbs and a larger displacement engine would roll over sooner losing its RPM multiplication factor in the process (HP = TQ X RPM / 5252)
Anything the new combo does exceeding 440/400 looks to be a guaranteed winner in my book....assuming the 5600+ gremlin doesn't exist any longer!
I just took the time to plot the theoretical torque curve had it not had the issue and if you look at it I think most would agree at 6000 RPM it would have likely made 370-375 RWTQ at best keeping in mind the larger engine would have started rolling over faster with more RPM. Even if I use 375 RWTQ, that puts the power at 6K at 428 RWHP so my 430 - 440 "air dyno" numbers seem very realistic and 440 might have been a stretch.
Hope this helps....
-Tony

www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
Last edited by Tony @ Mamo Motorsports; Aug 23, 2015 at 05:17 PM.

-Tony

www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
Plus the 220's are perfectly sized for a 383 application that will spend almost 99% of it operation cruising the street....especially in a heavy car that the owner is interested in strong low/midrange power, not just punching a big peak.
Its the right tool for the job in this application without a doubt
-Tony

www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!









