minimum for refresh - what to reuse/not reuse
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Teching In
Joined: Aug 2011
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minimum for refresh - what to reuse/not reuse I've seen some guys refer to a refresh as main/rod/cam bearings, new rings, new oil pump, new timing set, seemingly new everything except crank, rods, pistons and block.
I've also seen some guys refer to a refresh as disassemble, clean, new gaskets, light hone and put it back together with original bearings, rings and hardware (minus head bolts)
So maybe a broad question but what do you consider the minimum for a refresh, which parts would you never reuse, and which parts do you always reuse.
I've also seen some guys refer to a refresh as disassemble, clean, new gaskets, light hone and put it back together with original bearings, rings and hardware (minus head bolts)
So maybe a broad question but what do you consider the minimum for a refresh, which parts would you never reuse, and which parts do you always reuse.
I dunno about that, considering what happened to my crank...
See post #75:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...k-build-4.html
See post #75:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...k-build-4.html
I've seen some guys refer to a refresh as main/rod/cam bearings, new rings, new oil pump, new timing set, seemingly new everything except crank, rods, pistons and block.
I've also seen some guys refer to a refresh as disassemble, clean, new gaskets, light hone and put it back together with original bearings, rings and hardware (minus head bolts)
So maybe a broad question but what do you consider the minimum for a refresh, which parts would you never reuse, and which parts do you always reuse.
I've also seen some guys refer to a refresh as disassemble, clean, new gaskets, light hone and put it back together with original bearings, rings and hardware (minus head bolts)
So maybe a broad question but what do you consider the minimum for a refresh, which parts would you never reuse, and which parts do you always reuse.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2011
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What exactly did happen to your crank?! That looks like hell. I just assume the stock rods/pistons/crank that come out of a jy pull are already balanced for eachother, as long as there is no damage, polish the crank and re install. I still want other people's opinions, but another question, besides head bolts, are any other bolts tty and 1 use only
Well, I wish I knew for absolute certain how it let loose, but if you peruse my thread, the engine blew at a HPDE @ Road America... The rust is just from it sitting outdoors post-removal. Look at the other photos and you will see the holes in the side of the block, and shrapnel inside.
What exactly did happen to your crank?! That looks like hell. I just assume the stock rods/pistons/crank that come out of a jy pull are already balanced for eachother, as long as there is no damage, polish the crank and re install. I still want other people's opinions, but another question, besides head bolts, are any other bolts tty and 1 use only
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I've also seen some guys refer to a refresh as disassemble, clean, new gaskets, light hone and put it back together with original bearings, rings and hardware (minus head bolts)
A refresh, to sane people, means replacing things that wear out...like bearings, and reusing hard parts that don't wear out...like pistons, rods and crank.
First option is good for just getting more life out of a stockish engine, as those are the things that wear out.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2011
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Why would anyone consider a "refresh" but reusing wear parts?
A refresh, to sane people, means replacing things that wear out...like bearings, and reusing hard parts that don't wear out...like pistons, rods and crank.
First option is good for just getting more life out of a stockish engine, as those are the things that wear out.
A refresh, to sane people, means replacing things that wear out...like bearings, and reusing hard parts that don't wear out...like pistons, rods and crank.
First option is good for just getting more life out of a stockish engine, as those are the things that wear out.
Maybe a better title would have been "minimum peace of mind checklist for jy build"
No connecting rod bolts gave way, just that one connecting rod fractured. I may have sucked a valve and that caused the piston to put excessive force on the rod.dum You can see a valve that was down on the head in one of my photos... Not certain about the bearings, will have to ask the shop.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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No connecting rod bolts gave way, just that one connecting rod fractured. I may have sucked a valve and that caused the piston to put excessive force on the rod.dum You can see a valve that was down on the head in one of my photos... Not certain about the bearings, will have to ask the shop.
maybe i'm wrong here but I would think opening up your jy pick for a quick clean and inspection would be a good idea, I know some of the guys on here prefer to just throw them in and run them, but If I get 15 miles out in the swamp on the airboat i'm planning to build, I don't want the engine to fail because of the cracked cam bearing I didn't see. Also don't intend to hand the machine shop, 2000 bucks and bucket of new parts for an engine I paid 600$ for.
Maybe a better title would have been "minimum peace of mind checklist for jy build"
Maybe a better title would have been "minimum peace of mind checklist for jy build"
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2011
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You have a pretty expensive machine shop. My more inclusive stroker build was hone cylinders to size, clearance crank/rods, purchase and install cam bearings, line hone, balance with new rotating assembly, repair damaged lifter bores, measure all bearing clearances for fitment, cleaning and penetrating dye inspection of the block, touchup-mill heads and resurface flywheel for $900. All it took was for me to just bolt everything together. Like was said a take-it-apart, look at it and put it back together isn't a refresh, it's mostly just work.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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I'm not looking for anything crazy or wild, might have the heads sent to ai for some mild work, maybe mill to bump compression and a cam swap, looking to make 425+/425+ below 6000rpm. If I can get my hands on one without costing an arm and a leg I'm going with an l33, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it
A true freshen up includes replacing all wear items like bearings, rings and gaskets. Clean the block and rotting assy up and rebuild it with new bearings. Of course most of the shops will check the rods ect for issues. I just called today for some work I want done to my block and rotating assy. Cleaning the block, install cam bearings and balance the rotating assy for 408.00 total plus the cost of the cam bearings. For another 500 they can build the shortblock. But I'll do the myself. I just need the things done that I do not have the tools to do myself.
Now for the guys you hear about that just open it up and look at the bearings ect to make sure nothing it bad and putting it back together, that's another deal all together. they are just checking out the engine before they install it into a car and find out it has a rod knock or bad bearing. We do the same thing on our race engines from time to time. But every year they would get a real freshen and I mentioned above.
Now for the guys you hear about that just open it up and look at the bearings ect to make sure nothing it bad and putting it back together, that's another deal all together. they are just checking out the engine before they install it into a car and find out it has a rod knock or bad bearing. We do the same thing on our race engines from time to time. But every year they would get a real freshen and I mentioned above.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2011
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A true freshen up includes replacing all wear items like bearings, rings and gaskets. Clean the block and rotting assy up and rebuild it with new bearings. Of course most of the shops will check the rods ect for issues. I just called today for some work I want done to my block and rotating assy. Cleaning the block, install cam bearings and balance the rotating assy for 408.00 total plus the cost of the cam bearings. For another 500 they can build the shortblock. But I'll do the myself. I just need the things done that I do not have the tools to do myself.
Now for the guys you hear about that just open it up and look at the bearings ect to make sure nothing it bad and putting it back together, that's another deal all together. they are just checking out the engine before they install it into a car and find out it has a rod knock or bad bearing. We do the same thing on our race engines from time to time. But every year they would get a real freshen and I mentioned above.
Now for the guys you hear about that just open it up and look at the bearings ect to make sure nothing it bad and putting it back together, that's another deal all together. they are just checking out the engine before they install it into a car and find out it has a rod knock or bad bearing. We do the same thing on our race engines from time to time. But every year they would get a real freshen and I mentioned above.
TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2013
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If I was rebuilding any LS engine for ANY type of racing- boating etc NOWAY would I use the stock rods or pistons. They are the cause of many blown engines, just garbage IMO. Same with the pistons, pure crap. You put a good set of rods and pistons in LS engine it will take a hell of a beating.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2015
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If I was rebuilding any LS engine for ANY type of racing- boating etc NOWAY would I use the stock rods or pistons. They are the cause of many blown engines, just garbage IMO. Same with the pistons, pure crap. You put a good set of rods and pistons in LS engine it will take a hell of a beating.
TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2013
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They ok as long as nothing gets abused by detonation etc, but even a small amount of detonation will destroy these fragile rods and pistons quickly. I'll give you a hint, any rod that can be cracked is easily fractured. The pistons are glass like in composition. Ask the boat guys what happens to the stock rods out on the lake at full throttle after a few mins.