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Went to look at my block and the machinest had an issue with the #1 main cap. Said this is a common method to open up the tolerance and relieve the stress.
Not happy about it but wanted to get your take. I have stopped any further work and won't be charged for this as they did not line hone it properly either...
Went to look at my block and the machinest had an issue with the #1 main cap. Said this is a common method to open up the tolerance and relieve the stress.
Not happy about it but wanted to get your take. I have stopped any further work and won't be charged for this as they did not line hone it properly either...
Your machinist did that? That cap should not be like that. Line honing can be a PITA sometimes, but there's no need to beat craters in the cap.
I guess the cap was closing up after it was line bored. By as much as .003 . I guess it was just over the high side of the factory spec.
The Block was in a fire and melted the pan off back to the second cap. The rods in that area were hot enough to turn purple.
The worst part was When I went in and asked to see what he said he did, I noticed caps 2,3, and 4 were on back wards when he line honed it... supposedly, on this block, they lined up well and were within spec. I had to show him some pictures of how they are supposed to be.
I am extremely disappointed and am trying to decide on how to proceed. I see some used caps on Ebay. I can go to a yard and try to get a set. Or I can Get some billet replacements...
I have never had any problems with this shop and I usually take my stuff there. There also good about making things right if there is ever an issue.
I guess the cap was closing up after it was line bored. By as much as .003 . I guess it was just over the high side of the factory spec.
The Block was in a fire and melted the pan off back to the second cap. The rods in that area were hot enough to turn purple.
The worst part was When I went in and asked to see what he said he did, I noticed caps 2,3, and 4 were on back wards when he line honed it... supposedly, on this block, they lined up well and were within spec. I had to show him some pictures of how they are supposed to be.
I am extremely disappointed and am trying to decide on how to proceed. I see some used caps on Ebay. I can go to a yard and try to get a set. Or I can Get some billet replacements...
I have never had any problems with this shop and I usually take my stuff there. There also good about making things right if there is ever an issue.
That's crazy, I've never heard of that happening except for one time when my old boss line bored a block without actually torquing the caps down. I torqued them down and tried to line hone it but it was super tight. Other than that, I've nevr wen that happen, but this was all on billet caps. Maybe the PM ones are different.
Any time a block is line bored/honed wrong as in this case....trying any means to correct it becomes.....
I've seen it, done it, and they always end up as scrap... cuz the more block material that's honed away...the looser the T chain will be and it's just a relentless headache....not to mention the fact that the main bore always moves around to the point that the deck heights end up being different......it just literally ***** everything else up about the whole build....SORRY......
Last edited by A.R. Shale Targa; 10-03-2015 at 08:36 AM.
That's crazy, I've never heard of that happening except for one time when my old boss line bored a block without actually torquing the caps down. I torqued them down and tried to line hone it but it was super tight. Other than that, I've nevr wen that happen, but this was all on billet caps. Maybe the PM ones are different.
What's your experience with Billet caps?
I am trying to decide if I should bite the bullet and get them or find some stock caps for this block.
I am trying to decide if I should bite the bullet and get them or find some stock caps for this block.
They're a PITA. The ones I've installed fit too tight between the pan rails and had to be machined. They also had some sort of dowel like an LS7/LSX block or just a dowel pin, so that had to be machined as well. Then they had a recess for the washer to fit in, but it wasn't large enough so the washers had to be turned down (old ARP main stud kit). Then you still have to align bore and hone the mains.
That was years ago, so there may be less issues now. I would still suggest stock caps.
I think it depends on what you're doing with it. I took another 6.0L block to 4.065" and stuffed LS3 rods and pistons in it and it's running perfectly fine in my Trans Am. For mild heads/cam street builds, I don't think sonic testing the cylinders is really needed at all.
If you want to do a power adder, then it may be a good idea to see what you have to work with. I don't know that I would want to use a .060" over block on a 1000whp nitrous build.
They're a PITA. The ones I've installed fit too tight between the pan rails and had to be machined. They also had some sort of dowel like an LS7/LSX block or just a dowel pin, so that had to be machined as well. Then they had a recess for the washer to fit in, but it wasn't large enough so the washers had to be turned down (old ARP main stud kit). Then you still have to align bore and hone the mains.
That was years ago, so there may be less issues now. I would still suggest stock caps.
Wonder if it's worth even messing with or if I should look for another block ?
This looks like a nice piston! 432g is sexy lightweight. My 4.030" Wiseco pistons in my LS2 were about 499g! The top and second rings are nice and thin too.
So here is the fork in the road, feel free to offer input which way I should go with this.
The compression height of the piston is a little thick. 1.329" is close to what the stock piston is, so I would need to run a 6.100" rod with the stock 3.622" stroke, or mill .025-.030" off and run a longer 6.125" rod.
Option A: Scat makes a nice I-beam for the LSx in either length for a .927" pin for less than $300. They weigh about 600g.
Option B: There is also a guy selling some super lightweight ~550g 6.125" Carillo rods for about the same price. They're for a .930" pin, which is no big deal since I can just hone the pin bores a little, but also a 1.85" IRL rod journal. I know someone who has done this, but with a slightly larger Honda journal size (1.888) and it ran really well.
You're right, that sure is a sweet *** piston...LS1 light in LS3 size
Carillo rods are KILLER too....specially the small journal and ultra light.
I'd run that combo with the Total Seal .027" rings and the cheater spacers that 2bbl stock car guys are using to reduce friction.
Don't mill the pistons, put that bitch .035" out of the hole and run a .070" Cometic, or an eighty if the deck is now at 9.22". I've run plenty of .018"-.025" out combos on Street Stock and Grand national dirt track engines that sustain 6-7,000 rpms all night and they are runners for sure.
Last edited by A.R. Shale Targa; 10-23-2015 at 10:53 PM.
You're right, that sure is a sweet *** piston...LS1 light in LS3 size
Carillo rods are KILLER too....specially the small journal and ultra light.
I'd run that combo with the Total Seal .027" rings and the cheater spacers that 2bbl stock car guys are using to reduce friction.
Don't mill the pistons, put that bitch .035" out of the hole and run a .070" Cometic, or an eighty if the deck is now at 9.22". I've run plenty of .018"-.025" out combos on Street Stock and Grand national dirt track engines that sustain 6-7,000 rpms all night and they are runners for sure.
I was looking into those "Advantage Rings" as Total Seal calls them but the thinnest I found is .030" thick. The pistons are supposed to have .043" rings, so that would leave me with a very very thin ring. lol. I think I'm going to stick with the .043" rings and call it good. I think Mahle/perfect Circle has a really nice set I want to try out.
I was also thinking that milling the pistons would drop the weight a teeny bit more, but also reduce the valve relief volume. It might only be 1cc or so, but every little bit helps.
I still have to finish the LS2 I've been working on too. I just have to blend in the valve job and open up the pushrod holes for 3/8" pushrods before I can bolt on the TFS heads. It's all down hill after that.
So here's a twist, Diamond says these aren't their pistons. The number etched in the piston is too long to be either a Diamond PN or SO number. The only other piston manufacturer I know of that etches their numbers underneath the piston is JE/SRP, so I went ahead and sent them an email to see if they recognize these pistons.
10-01-2015, 12:51 AM
