Budget build LOL heavy Mamo content inside
11-02-2015, 09:08 PM
#62
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Looking at the dyno graph all I can say is damn.
Torque curve is like a table across the board. Horsepower just comes on and stays. Purty looking BSFC and BMEP to go along with those.
That is one thought out setup and it performs as much. I want to see how the gas pedal feels under my foot.
Torque curve is like a table across the board. Horsepower just comes on and stays. Purty looking BSFC and BMEP to go along with those.
That is one thought out setup and it performs as much. I want to see how the gas pedal feels under my foot.
11-02-2015, 11:02 PM
#63
Looking at the dyno graph all I can say is damn.
Torque curve is like a table across the board. Horsepower just comes on and stays. Purty looking BSFC and BMEP to go along with those.
That is one thought out setup and it performs as much. I want to see how the gas pedal feels under my foot.
Torque curve is like a table across the board. Horsepower just comes on and stays. Purty looking BSFC and BMEP to go along with those.
That is one thought out setup and it performs as much. I want to see how the gas pedal feels under my foot.
11-03-2015, 09:12 AM
#64
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I went into this, unlike most, without a peak number in mind. I've seen too many threads on here where people get hung up on the peak numbers, with no regard for the rest of the curve or how it will drive. The goal of the build simply being a fun street car, I too was very pleased with the "torque table" and the way the power carried. My 3400 converter should compliment the 3500-6800 rpm range very well. I'll literally have 500+ ft/lbs the entire time I have my foot mashed.
That stall sounds almost perfectly matched. Only problem you'll have is traction
11-03-2015, 12:34 PM
#65
Not on this dyno....not on any dyno that's reasonably accurate IMO (600 would be approaching 1.5 TQ per cube....in a pump gas HR engine.....not a chance)........................................... .................................................. .......................................Regardless of displacement most of the engines I have built and tested there made approx 1.37 ft/lbs per cube (+/- a couple of hundredths).....honestly a very respectable number for a pump gas street engine................................
-Tony
-Tony
11-04-2015, 04:11 AM
#66
I see so many of these articles that talk about how much more torque the FAST style intake manifolds make than the single plane intakes. I guess that only applies to the lower RPM, moderate power builds. 560-570 ft. pounds of torque is no more than a 675-700 400+" LS makes with a Victor style intake. Apparently once you get into serious power, the plastic intakes no longer have an edge in terms of torque production.
Part throttle with 11" equal length runners versus a single plane with variable length shorter runners is also quite different but you cant measure that on the dyno.
A street/strip car is better served with the FAST in my opinion.....a strip/street car with a single plane configuration.....two different tools for two different applications.
The FAST's longer runners do force the power peak around 65-6700 depending on other factors (and contribute to a faster roll off), but overall it produces solid average power and great torque down low. Its a good all around choice for most enthusiasts that want to keep the RPM reasonable and spend more time driving than blitzing the 1320
-Tony
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Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
11-04-2015, 05:46 AM
#67
I have heard that said many times, but the Dart LS3 headed 403" engine that I just dynoed at Scranton Brothers Racing Development has a Victor Jr. and it made more torque and horsepower everywhere from 4500 on up. I did not pull it below 4500, so I can't speak to anything below that.
I know the dynos are very similar too because Matt said he has had a few engines in there that had previously been at Westech and they were within a few numbers.
Another member that goes by Helicoil also recently completed a TFS 237 headed 418" cathedral port with a Super Victor. It was not as strong as my 403, but he made more power everywhere too.
One notable difference between our two engines and this one is that myself and Helicoil both used low lash solid rollers. They were of similar duration to what the OPs engine uses, but had valve events tailored to the single plane intakes.
I know the dynos are very similar too because Matt said he has had a few engines in there that had previously been at Westech and they were within a few numbers.
Another member that goes by Helicoil also recently completed a TFS 237 headed 418" cathedral port with a Super Victor. It was not as strong as my 403, but he made more power everywhere too.
One notable difference between our two engines and this one is that myself and Helicoil both used low lash solid rollers. They were of similar duration to what the OPs engine uses, but had valve events tailored to the single plane intakes.
12-24-2015, 05:43 PM
#70
I haven't got the car done yet guys. Between wrecking my DD and breaking a leg, having to buy a new car, finding a couple pistols I couldn't live without, and buying all top notch supporting mods for this build, I'm a little low on funds 
I still need a fuel pump, flex plate, MAF, tranny cooler, and a conversion harness for the computer stuff. Probably gonna get new shocks and some Weld RT-S too. I'm expecting to have it on the road in early March. Hopefully sooner since I'm back to work full time now. Ill be using this thread to document the dyno results and the driveability so keep an eye on this one.
I still need a fuel pump, flex plate, MAF, tranny cooler, and a conversion harness for the computer stuff. Probably gonna get new shocks and some Weld RT-S too. I'm expecting to have it on the road in early March. Hopefully sooner since I'm back to work full time now. Ill be using this thread to document the dyno results and the driveability so keep an eye on this one.
12-25-2015, 08:18 AM
#72
Just a few obstacles for you there. I hope that leg is getting better. As for the car, with the way you had the engine built, I wouldn't expect any less out of the rest of the build. You won't be able to enjoy it unless everything else can handle that type of power. One of my favorite upgrades was doing a nice set of front shocks. You really can feel the weight transfer improve immediately. I also liked dropping the weight up front with all the tubular components but some guys don't like to go that route for the street. Great build, I'll definitely be keeping an eye on results. Lots of fun to read about builds. Especially all out ones like this. It's going to be one mean car for sure.
12-25-2015, 06:59 PM
#74
Just a few obstacles for you there. I hope that leg is getting better. As for the car, with the way you had the engine built, I wouldn't expect any less out of the rest of the build. You won't be able to enjoy it unless everything else can handle that type of power. One of my favorite upgrades was doing a nice set of front shocks. You really can feel the weight transfer improve immediately. I also liked dropping the weight up front with all the tubular components but some guys don't like to go that route for the street. Great build, I'll definitely be keeping an eye on results. Lots of fun to read about builds. Especially all out ones like this. It's going to be one mean car for sure.
03-09-2016, 05:31 PM
#76
It's almost that time. If the bank would actually let me spend my money, everything would be on it's way. Alas, they cut me off at $3000 for the day lol
What I ordered:
-MWC long torque arm and crossmember (my short TA and crossmember simply won't clear the Kooks TDs, and I want it to be a clean install)
-adjustable Viking shocks/struts for front and rear
-Racetronix fuel pump w/ Hotwire kit
-TSP 100mm MAF
-LS2 style Cam sensor and knock sensor harness extensions
-SSRA
-LS2 water pump
-TCI flexplate
-and then some misc bolts and stuff
I still have to get the trans cooler and a wheel/tire setup, along with knock sensors and new O2 sensors. I plan to order the black Weld RT-S wheels tomorrow. 17x10.5 for the rear and 17x8 for the front. Likely running a set of ET streets on the rear and whatever street tires up front.
What do you guys think about a deeper trans pan? Needed or nah? I'm looking at the B&M cooler as well.
The car should be going to the shop for install within a couple weeks and then straight to the tuner afterward.
What I ordered:
-MWC long torque arm and crossmember (my short TA and crossmember simply won't clear the Kooks TDs, and I want it to be a clean install)
-adjustable Viking shocks/struts for front and rear
-Racetronix fuel pump w/ Hotwire kit
-TSP 100mm MAF
-LS2 style Cam sensor and knock sensor harness extensions
-SSRA
-LS2 water pump
-TCI flexplate
-and then some misc bolts and stuff
I still have to get the trans cooler and a wheel/tire setup, along with knock sensors and new O2 sensors. I plan to order the black Weld RT-S wheels tomorrow. 17x10.5 for the rear and 17x8 for the front. Likely running a set of ET streets on the rear and whatever street tires up front.
What do you guys think about a deeper trans pan? Needed or nah? I'm looking at the B&M cooler as well.
The car should be going to the shop for install within a couple weeks and then straight to the tuner afterward.
03-09-2016, 07:08 PM
#77
Awesome. Good to see you working on it again.
I did a deeper tci trans pan on mine and just used an upgraded radiator and worked well for driving on the street. The main thing you would want is a trans temp gauge to monitor and then just go from there. There's a port on the drivers side towards the top for a sensor.
I didn't have any heat issues driving at all. Sitting the car would heat up and since the trans fluid went through the radiator it would heat that up too which I didn't like. Sitting in staging lanes it would hit 210 and then after a track pass it would be 180. I think that's was from my supercharger heating up the engine compartment though. So you might be good with just the radiator.
My new setup I took care of the heat issue in the engine compartment, hopefully anyways, with a bigger hood, modified the cowl, moved a reservoir and added another fan.
Now I am adding a trans cooler with fan and I'm Not going to run the trans fluid through the radiator at all. My only concern is that if the transmission is cold I'll probably have to drive it to warm it up so we'll see how that goes next.
Hope some of this helps. I learned a lot just driving it so I'd go cheap and just get a gauge and see how it runs. That's what Jeremy at RPM Trans suggested to me last year.
I did a deeper tci trans pan on mine and just used an upgraded radiator and worked well for driving on the street. The main thing you would want is a trans temp gauge to monitor and then just go from there. There's a port on the drivers side towards the top for a sensor.
I didn't have any heat issues driving at all. Sitting the car would heat up and since the trans fluid went through the radiator it would heat that up too which I didn't like. Sitting in staging lanes it would hit 210 and then after a track pass it would be 180. I think that's was from my supercharger heating up the engine compartment though. So you might be good with just the radiator.
My new setup I took care of the heat issue in the engine compartment, hopefully anyways, with a bigger hood, modified the cowl, moved a reservoir and added another fan.
Now I am adding a trans cooler with fan and I'm Not going to run the trans fluid through the radiator at all. My only concern is that if the transmission is cold I'll probably have to drive it to warm it up so we'll see how that goes next.
Hope some of this helps. I learned a lot just driving it so I'd go cheap and just get a gauge and see how it runs. That's what Jeremy at RPM Trans suggested to me last year.
03-09-2016, 08:22 PM
#78
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I run the big B&M Trans cooler with a fan, and so far its doing well. My temps don't go over 180 degrees. It's mounted under the gas tank in the rear of the car.
I have my fan on a switch, so when it's cold I don't run it, I wait for it to hit 125 degrees first.
I was thinking about going with the deep pan, I just didn't want to give up the ground clearance for it.
Can't wait to see the rest of your build. I was really regretting my decision to stick with my 346" when you posted. I'm really happy with it now, but I'm sure I'd be more happy with a Mamo 416!
I have my fan on a switch, so when it's cold I don't run it, I wait for it to hit 125 degrees first.
I was thinking about going with the deep pan, I just didn't want to give up the ground clearance for it.
Can't wait to see the rest of your build. I was really regretting my decision to stick with my 346" when you posted. I'm really happy with it now, but I'm sure I'd be more happy with a Mamo 416!
03-10-2016, 01:25 AM
#80
Now I am adding a trans cooler with fan and I'm Not going to run the trans fluid through the radiator at all. My only concern is that if the transmission is cold I'll probably have to drive it to warm it up so we'll see how that goes next.
Hope some of this helps. I learned a lot just driving it so I'd go cheap and just get a gauge and see how it runs. That's what Jeremy at RPM Trans suggested to me last year.
Hope some of this helps. I learned a lot just driving it so I'd go cheap and just get a gauge and see how it runs. That's what Jeremy at RPM Trans suggested to me last year.