I have on 02 ta with 4a that I am having the 241 heads ported and milled, and doing a cam swap. then shortly after the cam and heads i am putting 3.73 gears and a Detroit locker in. And having lsxkilr's tune it when it's back together.

I have also been thinking about putting a 2,800 or 3,000 stall in to.

The cam I have been looking at is comp cams 54-444-11

Operating Range:2000-7000
RPMDuration Advertised:273° Intake / 279°
ExhaustDuration @ .050'':224° Intake / 230°
ExhaustValve Lift w/1.7 Rockers:.581'' Intake / .588'' ExhaustLobe Separation Angle:114°

Do any of you have a similar setup, if so how do you like it? I am open to different cams to if you have any suggestions.

I don't need the fastest car in town. I just want to be able to pull up on some punk kid in his dad's Mustang, and just stomp the crap out of them.

 

With a stall like the one you mentioned I think that cam is a solid choice

 

I would stay away from comp personally.

This is very close to what you are already looking at but from a great site sponsor:

http://store.cammotion.com/the-titan3-1

If that doesn't tickle your fancy give them a call and they can grind any duration and lift you want.

 

Forget the locker do a position, go with more stall 32-3600, and I would second the suggestion to get a cam from a smaller vendor even if it is on a Comp core you will get better specs. Comp's catalog stuff is dumbed down to account for consumer ignorance.

On the stall, Edge is as cheap as I would go, or spend more on Yank or Vigilante, not some TCI or other $400 budget piece.

 

Circle D 5c converter...

And no smaller than TSP 228/228.

 

I was looking at comp cam just because that is what we have always ran. But this the first cam that is not going in a carbureted truck that weighs 5000lbs.

I have seen a lot of people on here run Lunati, Crain, Crower and a few others. But I have never even talked to someone (other than on here) that has ran any of them. But I live in truck country, there is only a handful of f-bodys around home.

 

Like others have said, a stall is an absolute must for your cammed car as are headers and y pipe or true duals. I'd go with a 3600 stall and like mentioned, if you can afford it go for a yank or vigilante. A cam around the size you posted will drive good on the streets, but go to one of the vendors like said.

You will have no problem with any mustangs unless they're blown, boosted, or on nitrous. Ryan tuned my car also, you'll be happy with his tuning.

 

Right now the car has MagnaFlow high flow cats and exhaust, with the stock manifolds. But right now long tubes and dual exhaust are not in the budget. They will be next, but I have a wedding to pay for.

I will look at the vendors on here and see what they have to offer.

 

I would do the long tubes and y pipe (or rue duals) before a heads and cam swap. You'll be choking out that setup a lot and won't get the benefits of a heads/cam setup.

Edit: If you are putting any decent sized cam over 224, then it's almost a must to have a aftermarket stall or you'll be pushing through your brakes every time you go to stop and it is going to suck sitting at stoplights too. I'd hold off until you have the money to do it all at once if you're set on doing the cam now. Headers, y pipe, and stall (if auto) is a must with a decent sized cammed car and your higher flowing heads can't flow much coming out of stock manifolds.

 

Too much to quote. I had a bad experience with that come XER273 cam. It was ground 9 degrees off. So I second thunderstruck's recommendation.

Also second the suggestion to do long tubes first. An aftermarket cam on a stock exhaust can actually be very counter productive. Aftermarket cams need that siphoning action of long tube headers to avoid intake reversion.

Thirdly, consider saving to do heads and cam together. A well matched heads and cam will do far better than either by themselves for power and drivabiliy

 

The heads and cam are getting done now. I had small antifreeze leak from the head gasket by number 4 cylinder. And I'm not going to do it twice.

The torque converter will be done pretty much right after. And the stock posi in the car is about shot you can hear it banging any time you let off or give it any throttle, and around corner at slow speeds. I was going to do 3.73's and a locker this winter anyway. But with the extra power i will destroy the factory posi. So that will be the next.


As for the long tubes and duals. They will be after that. I don't need the car to get around, I have four trucks I can drive. So if it sits for six months while I save to do it right the first time that is fine.

 

Good deal. Sounds like you're being very realistic and have thought things through. Pretty much any cam with intake duration 224-230 is going to be daily drive able. Less overlap (both valves open at the same time) generally means better drive ability. With the heads you're using, have you thought about the compression ratio you want? You can mill the heads to gain compression, which will help you tolerate more cam as well as help with fuel efficiency. If you use the Titan 3 and mill to 62cc, you should end up around 11:1. You would want to use premium gas all the time, but that's a minor trade off. You would also want to move to a colder spark plug.

Car would run great and drive very nicely. Would have some loping at idle but not too much.

 

As soon as the heads are done getting ported I was going to have them milled. I was thinking either 63cc or 64cc I was going to talk to the machinist. That would put me high 10's as far as compression.

As far as running premium fuel, that is what has been ran in it since it was new.

I had not thought of the plugs. But I'm not there just yet. The head are still not finished being ported.