cam for daily driver
I have also been thinking about putting a 2,800 or 3,000 stall in to.
The cam I have been looking at is comp cams 54-444-11
Operating Range:2000-7000
RPMDuration Advertised:273° Intake / 279°
ExhaustDuration @ .050'':224° Intake / 230°
ExhaustValve Lift w/1.7 Rockers:.581'' Intake / .588'' ExhaustLobe Separation Angle:114°
Do any of you have a similar setup, if so how do you like it? I am open to different cams to if you have any suggestions.
I don't need the fastest car in town. I just want to be able to pull up on some punk kid in his dad's Mustang, and just stomp the crap out of them.
This is very close to what you are already looking at but from a great site sponsor:
http://store.cammotion.com/the-titan3-1
If that doesn't tickle your fancy give them a call and they can grind any duration and lift you want.
On the stall, Edge is as cheap as I would go, or spend more on Yank or Vigilante, not some TCI or other $400 budget piece.
I have seen a lot of people on here run Lunati, Crain, Crower and a few others. But I have never even talked to someone (other than on here) that has ran any of them. But I live in truck country, there is only a handful of f-bodys around home.
You will have no problem with any mustangs unless they're blown, boosted, or on nitrous. Ryan tuned my car also, you'll be happy with his tuning.
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I will look at the vendors on here and see what they have to offer.
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Edit: If you are putting any decent sized cam over 224, then it's almost a must to have a aftermarket stall or you'll be pushing through your brakes every time you go to stop and it is going to suck sitting at stoplights too. I'd hold off until you have the money to do it all at once if you're set on doing the cam now. Headers, y pipe, and stall (if auto) is a must with a decent sized cammed car and your higher flowing heads can't flow much coming out of stock manifolds.
Also second the suggestion to do long tubes first. An aftermarket cam on a stock exhaust can actually be very counter productive. Aftermarket cams need that siphoning action of long tube headers to avoid intake reversion.
Thirdly, consider saving to do heads and cam together. A well matched heads and cam will do far better than either by themselves for power and drivabiliy
The torque converter will be done pretty much right after. And the stock posi in the car is about shot you can hear it banging any time you let off or give it any throttle, and around corner at slow speeds. I was going to do 3.73's and a locker this winter anyway. But with the extra power i will destroy the factory posi. So that will be the next.
As for the long tubes and duals. They will be after that. I don't need the car to get around, I have four trucks I can drive. So if it sits for six months while I save to do it right the first time that is fine.
Car would run great and drive very nicely. Would have some loping at idle but not too much.
As far as running premium fuel, that is what has been ran in it since it was new.
I had not thought of the plugs. But I'm not there just yet. The head are still not finished being ported.





