MuhThugga

I would definitely consider going with a different oil and filter now that you are putting some money in the bottom end. I prefer Amsoil myself, but I'm not like the typical Amsoil douches who stick their dicks in the bottles during "quiet time."

Some of the Mobil 1 stuff is still good, but my issue with it is that the formulations have changed and a lot of of their oils have become Group III oils as a result.

With that said, while the oil may have not helped with the wear, the OE clearances certainly are the main contributors. But that is to be expected when you are making three times the designed horsepower.

brobinson216

iTrader: (11)

CF = Corvette Forum.

So you say you didn't rebuild it? You just tore it down and put it back together? Kind of confused now.

Stock heads would have PM guides.

Your responses sounded kind of short so I'll step out.

Best of luck.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

Sounds to me that he just tore it down, opened the ring gap and put it back together. Using the same bearings ect. So with that many miles and then adding the HP for that long, it doesn't look that bad really.

As for oil. I am not a fan of any synthetic oil in a race engine. I too have seen bad results using several brands. I have never blown an engine with Valvoline VR oils. I also run Fram filters with good success. Yea, there is surely a better filter but they have served me well so far so why change. Now I do like Amsoil in the rear gear and stick shift transmissions. Its just doesn't hold up when temps get really up there and seem to break down easily at a certain temp.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Didn't mean to sound short. I was likely on my phone, which is too small to read especially at my age.

I bought it from LKQ for $800. I took it apart, cleaned and reassembled it. Same bearings, and rings. All kept in their original positions.
I don't have the proper tools to measure clearances, so I assumed since it supposedly was running, and everything except the pistons looked good, the clearances were ok.

It was obvious to me from the scuffed pistons, that it was either overheated good at one time, or poorly maintained. Although the bearings looked fine.
it was pretty sludged up. The oil rings were pretty much packed solid. Ring grooves were filthy. The insides had a brown coating that was very stubborn to remove.
Now it looks new inside.

Of course I use mobil 1 in my C5 as well.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

I have read various internet stuff about oils. Invariably they all turn into huge pissing matches. Chemist vs chemist, engine builder vs engine builder.
The synthetic vs dino debate will never end it seems.

So for guys like us, I guess we pick one and go with it.
The M1 5W-30 has been highly ranked in one "list'.

What I have noted is that the Valvoline VR1 is preferred by many.
Guarantee my engine guy will say Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs. Prob the most expensive oils known to man.

I guess the other question is going to be, what bearing clearances do we set this new deal up to since that seems like it's going to determine the oil viscosity we use.
I'll let my guy figure that out.

If I can find the time before I haul the parts to my machinist, I bring them to the shop here and measure the clearances as it sits now. That might be interesting.

brobinson216

iTrader: (11)

Well in that case I'd say it looks very good based on the above info. Wouldn't be a bit concerned.

I've used M1 in multiple Corvette's for many many years without any problem. I currently run it in my wife's Cadillac SRX, so here's my opinion while it's fine for a DD/Sunny day cruiser I'm confident there are better choices for race prepped cars.

You are correct in pick one and run it. It's your decision based on supportive data that is public knowledge all over the www.

When talking bearing clearances that will depend on intended use and viscosity of oil you plan to run. So that being said let that be the decision of the machine shop. Seven people will give you different advice, listen to whose doing the work is what I've found to be the only solution.

Rule of thumb .0007" - .0012" for every 1.000" of journal width given the fact that everything is within circularty/roundness/runout tolerance of nominal.

Given the fact you are racing, my recommendation would be shooting for .0025", and running a 20/50 with zinc ranges of ~2000 ppm.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Thanks!
In fact, thanks to all for chiming in here.
I just thought it would be interesting to show the group how this SBE turbo engine fared.
Along with the passes, prob about 2k street miles as I do drive it. And always to and from the track.

I'll let the group know what my engine guy comes up with for clearances etc. should be a fun trip to the 8's with my "brick".
😊

Ron

the404man

Got a youtube Ron ?

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Sadly not from this year.
My 9.21@149 is on FB somewhere, but I deactivated my account and can't see it. Never could figure out how to download FB videos. And my buddy who took it erased it from his phone.