RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Also in the FI section. Thought you guys might be interested.


Hey all,

After the season ended last year I decided to add forged rods and pistons to the L33. Basically so I could quit saying "don't blow up" as I approached the finish line every pass.
And I thought I might to really turn it up someday.

I bought the LJMS pistons and Compstar rods.

So thought I'd share what I found on disassembly.

Valvetrain all good. Stock rockers, Comp Trunions BTR springs.
I do have a couple of guides that have become sloppy.

The LS9 heads gaskets showed no signs of even thinking about leaking. Great to see after losing LS1 gaskets and then Felpro gaskets.

Cloyes chain a touch loose as compared to the tight it was when new. Still tighter than an LS2 chain. I am also running the chain damper as this block is drilled for one.

Cam and lifters look good.

Pistons all good. Rings all free.
No bent rods. :-)
Bearings (these are the orig) showed slight wear on the rod side. Cap side looked just like I remember when I assembled.

Crank not so hot......a couple of mains were grooved. Not horrible, just catch your finger nail groovy. Bearings are now shiny compared to the dull silver they were when I assembled.
And finally, 7/8 rod journal appears to have a surface crack. I had noted this when I assembled, but it's worse now and will catch your fingernail.
So I need a crank. No sense paying to turn this one and find out it's a real crack.
The thrust however was perfect at .004" the same as when I assembled it.

So maybe I got some dirt in there when assembling. I feel that I was very careful though. #2 and #4 were the worse.

So I need a crank. I do have a nice 5.3 crank from an iron long block I bought.

I have looked into a forged stock stroke unit, but just like everything I research online, there is a failure story about most. So still thinking.
Also considering ARP main studs.......

FWIW, I disassembled, inspected and carefully cleaned this engine before putting it in the car. It was quite gross inside. So at least I'm pleased it stayed together!

Ron

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Some photos:



Defect above oil hole



Groovy

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

So engine guys. What are these GM bearings?

RockinWs6

What oil filter were you using? Dam that's a terrible amount of wear on those bearings and crank.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

It looks worse than it feels.

Mobil 1 10W-30

RockinWs6

I asked what filter but the oil speaks for itself. I'm not a fan of M1 synthetics, I've seen accelerated bearing wear many times using them. I wouldn't put it in anything.

brobinson216

iTrader: (11)

I remember following your build a couple years back on the CF. Have the crank magnafluxed for cracks and turn it if possible.

80 passes? I've seen much worse in less time.

Was the block line honed when rebuild?

The wear to other parts you mention are what would seem reasonable for the specific usage you speak of.

What heads were you using and were they pm or bronze guides?

I'm not a fan of Mobil 1 oil as we lost two SB2's years ago, and both were using Mobil 1 oil. That being said we also ran a system 1 oil filter, and it's filtering was later found to be less than ideal for the race environment.

I'm really liking the Amsoil products and have seen some amazing things and testimony's from people who use it.

I've been running it in my LT5 engines with great success. One thing that is prominent in the early motors, is chain slap on start up. Since switching the 1990 over to it I've not heard chain slap one time. Until changing to the Amsoil it would slap violently around every ~10th startup. Mobil 1 was always used in it until 2012.

Best of luck in whatever you decide but it looks like this build went well.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Missed that. I use AC Delco filters.
The particular M1 is the extended wear version. For older engines. It was on sale. I had M1 5W-30 in it too. Changed twice per season or more.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

On the Chevelle Forum?

I never rebuilt this. Just disassembled, cleaned and reassembled it. Had 124k miles on it.
So no line hone etc. I just opened the top ring gaps for boost.

Heads are 799's that I ported.
So stock guides.

Given 149 mph at 3400 lbs in a non aero Nova, Wallace calculator says 800+ rwhp.

I've no complaints. 😊

RockinWs6

Right there could explain most of the wear you see. AC filters are terrible, tap cut threads

**** this site I'm done posting good luck but m1 and AC Delco fucked you!

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Having a few straight shots tonight? 😊

Was I arguing? Just told you what I'm using.
There were no issues with the engine. I took it apart for upgrades. That's all. Thought folks might like to see how a JY SBE fared.

Matt Burns

In my opinion 5-30 is a bit thin for 800 WHP. I would run 10-30 bare minimum. I only run Napa Gold (Wix) filters, and I prefer Valvoline VR1 oil.

Personally I don't think that bottom end looks too bad for the time and horsepower. The wear more on the rod side then the cap side is a good indicator your oil is a bit thin.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

That makes sense.
Thanks Matt

KCS

iTrader: (20)

We have a 800whp engine with a stock bottom end and bearing clearances for a sub 300hp truck engine and you're saying it's the oil and filter's fault? Please GTFO. You would be doing us a great service by never posting again.

RockinWs6

No Problem!

SlasherVRGR

iTrader: (1)

5w30 10w30 and straight 30 are all 30 at operating temp. The difference is cold start viscosity.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

When we put this back together, I'll discuss oil and bearing clearances with my builder.

I was letting oil pressure be my guide. It was always 35 psi hot idle and 65 going down track.

I also have to consider that the turbo drinks from the same oil supply.

KCS, 800whp from a 300hp truck engine mirrors my analogy.
It actually did pretty well.

RockinWs6

The oil and filter were not up to the task.............its as simple as that. Anyone tells you otherwise they are full-0-poop. I've been doing this for a LONG time. The oil was too light and the filter was garbage!

KCS

iTrader: (20)

How long have you been building 800whp engines with about .001" bearing clearance? A lot of the stock LS stuff I've taken apart usually has less than .002" on the mains and about .001-.0015" on the rods. The piston pins usually have .0005" clearance. You don't expect any wear with that clearance in an 800whp engine that goes almost 150MPH in a 3400lbs brick?

the404man

Those bearings and journals look way good compared to the 6.0 of mine i ran for 5 year 20k+ at 6200 to 6700rpm and only making maybe 350 crank hp, though it was assembled in a sand pit and the crankshaft had migrated bearing material on all the mains with just a touch of shoe string sanding ..

At 800rwhp yeah totally nice looking, well, depending what it looked like before hand.. though idk, seems it shouldn't be so groovy looking but yeah 800+hp is a lot on stock breaings id think, but yeah, so what is that 1/4 mile at 80 passes = 50 miles ?

Also if your worried about oil filter, try summitracing.com part# CHC-20-59 it does not have the bypass relief valve in it.. its a royal purple extended life filter.. iv used them for years... the CHC-20-59 is the larger one vs the shorter CHC-10-44 both though do not have a bypass relief valve.. also with the CHC-20-59 searching for application wont turn up if you go pasted 2002 model year.. though will work on any LS engine.. Edit: also if im correct, those oil filters have a 15000 mile change interval, well at lest the HPS oil does.. :end Edit

Oh and Moderator, i thought foul vile language was forbidden here ?

I know i sure don't think it should be allowed, i for one do not like reading it AT ALL one bit .. even though 99% of the time it shows you what the insides of people are made of.. its always a negative thing.. foul and vile, we really shouldn't be so ugly inside.. as i was one of the most at one time..

neways Thanks peace