383 or 408
Now that we have the LS2, you might want to think of that route. You will start out with a 6.0L block and all you will need is a bigger crank to get the cubes you want. With a 4.00 bore x 4.00 stroke you will have a 402ci.. You get the best of both worlds. Unfortunately the LS2 was not an option when I was making my decision. You have the option..
Jason might be faster if you ever get around to installing your parts
Jason might be faster if you ever get around to installing your parts

Also, your dyno #'s will depend on how radical you are willing to go. You would have to go more radical to get the 383ci to dyno as high as a 408ci with similar mods. Therefore sacrificing driveability. Now these are all just my opinion. I have been in two iron block cars. My old 95 TA and 383LQ4SS's car. I did not know my 95 TA had a iron block until I started modding it and I was told. In 383LQ4SS's car you cant tell at all. It drives just like it had an alum in the car and this was b4 Al did any weight reduction.

But really, I'm still waiting on a few things and I'll be ready to go. There is really only one way to look at the situation you are in: Dyno numbers vary so much that it is hard to get a good answer. There are so few 383's and 408's running that it is hard to get solid numbers. The way I look at it is, if done properly, more cubic inches will equal more power across the board. You've done the weight reduction, so the only downfall will be adding back a few extra pounds. You could always buy a C5-R block!
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I'm no LS1 expert, and forgive me for ever saying this, but what about all of those little ricers suping up their motors. Most of those motors are all aluminum too, arent they? It's trippy to hear my neighbor's kid tell me what some of his friends are doing to their motors (boost, nitrous)D





