Best heads cam intake combo
#1
Best heads cam intake combo
I just picked up a 2002 ws6 trans am
99K MILES
ELDERLY OWNED
AUTOMATIC
bone stock car
I have been a member on this forum for a while and did build a ws6 10 years ago heads and cam n20. but i have been out of the game for a while
i have an c6z but it is just a bolt on car. didn't want to crack open the ls7. thats why i bought this car
anyway i have been doing some research and have a lot of mixed feelings on which combo to put on this car.
The goal is to go 10.99 or faster Heads cam converter LSX intake N/A
once thats achieved i will go with a 150 shot of nitrous
Once the motor pops i will build a motor
car will be pretty much full wieght
Cam can be big, probably will see only 3k street miles a year-- but will be driven to track and back
retain A/c. I Took it out of my last car, don't plan on doing it on this one
So what setups are you guys running and what stall on the converter i was thinking between 3600-3800.
Just doing all my homework before i start this build.
thanks
Steve
99K MILES
ELDERLY OWNED
AUTOMATIC
bone stock car
I have been a member on this forum for a while and did build a ws6 10 years ago heads and cam n20. but i have been out of the game for a while
i have an c6z but it is just a bolt on car. didn't want to crack open the ls7. thats why i bought this car
anyway i have been doing some research and have a lot of mixed feelings on which combo to put on this car.
The goal is to go 10.99 or faster Heads cam converter LSX intake N/A
once thats achieved i will go with a 150 shot of nitrous
Once the motor pops i will build a motor
car will be pretty much full wieght
Cam can be big, probably will see only 3k street miles a year-- but will be driven to track and back
retain A/c. I Took it out of my last car, don't plan on doing it on this one
So what setups are you guys running and what stall on the converter i was thinking between 3600-3800.
Just doing all my homework before i start this build.
thanks
Steve
#4
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No you can reuse the heads if they're good. That's what I did when going from my 346 to my current 370. Good ported 243's are a great bang for the buck. That along with cam speced by a good source and a fast intake would be a potent combo that won't break the wallet. That's one thought...
#5
No you can reuse the heads if they're good. That's what I did when going from my 346 to my current 370. Good ported 243's are a great bang for the buck. That along with cam speced by a good source and a fast intake would be a potent combo that won't break the wallet. That's one thought...
If thats the case AFR's or MAMO heads could come into play. i want to set everything up together. PORTED 102lsx intake matched to the heads and cam. I don't like doing things twice.
#6
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That absolutly is one thought.. 370 cubes is probably what i would go to, 427 is just too much money.
If thats the case AFR's or MAMO heads could come into play. i want to set everything up together. PORTED 102lsx intake matched to the heads and cam. I don't like doing things twice.
If thats the case AFR's or MAMO heads could come into play. i want to set everything up together. PORTED 102lsx intake matched to the heads and cam. I don't like doing things twice.
#7
Old School Heavy
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This ought to do it:
Fast intake
Frankenstein or TEA ported LS6 heads
American Racing 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 headers
Cam Motion Titan King Cathedral Port camshaft
Circle D 4C or 2E 4000 stall converter
4.11-4.30 gears
Viking double adjustable shocks front and rear
Strange S60 rear end
M/T 275x radials
As much weight lost as possible.
When you want to do the nitrous, you will likely want the Circle D 3C stall converter and maybe 3.73 gears, but it will be easier to get into the 10s with the 4000 stall and 4.11s.
Fast intake
Frankenstein or TEA ported LS6 heads
American Racing 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 headers
Cam Motion Titan King Cathedral Port camshaft
Circle D 4C or 2E 4000 stall converter
4.11-4.30 gears
Viking double adjustable shocks front and rear
Strange S60 rear end
M/T 275x radials
As much weight lost as possible.
When you want to do the nitrous, you will likely want the Circle D 3C stall converter and maybe 3.73 gears, but it will be easier to get into the 10s with the 4000 stall and 4.11s.
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#8
That absolutly is one thought.. 370 cubes is probably what i would go to, 427 is just too much money.
If thats the case AFR's or MAMO heads could come into play. i want to set everything up together. PORTED 102lsx intake matched to the heads and cam. I don't like doing things twice.
If thats the case AFR's or MAMO heads could come into play. i want to set everything up together. PORTED 102lsx intake matched to the heads and cam. I don't like doing things twice.
This head flows 20 more CFM than an LS3 head on the intake with a 25 cc smaller port (and destroys it on the exhaust by 40 CFM). Lots of air speed....lots of air volume.....but you need the larger bore to take the most advantage of it....it just all works better that way
Look for a deal on a 4" bore short and have at it knowing you have a head to grow with down the road should you choose to stroke the engine at some point (and you will make alot of power with the standard stroke engine as well.....but a really good valvetrain is even more important here cause it will have a healthy appetite for RPM!! )
Please feel free to email or PM me if I can be of any assistance!
Cheers,
Tony
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Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
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Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
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98_CAMARO (09-02-2019)
#9
If you build a 4" bore motor you can step into my larger MMS 235 heads....that head is just at home on a 6.0 as it is on a 416 stroker.....it moves ALOT of air and has the right CSA. Even the larger motor wont roll over with that head (assuming you didn't miss the cam selection by a mile) and in a smaller motor it will never lay down but its not too big as to kill lower/midrange power....the key is how efficient that head is and the big airspeed helps really clean up low speed power production and reduce reversion issues.
This head flows 20 more CFM than an LS3 head on the intake with a 25 cc smaller port (and destroys it on the exhaust by 40 CFM). Lots of air speed....lots of air volume.....but you need the larger bore to take the most advantage of it....it just all works better that way
Look for a deal on a 4" bore short and have at it knowing you have a head to grow with down the road should you choose to stroke the engine at some point (and you will make alot of power with the standard stroke engine as well.....but a really good valvetrain is even more important here cause it will have a healthy appetite for RPM!! )
Please feel free to email or PM me if I can be of any assistance!
Cheers,
Tony
This head flows 20 more CFM than an LS3 head on the intake with a 25 cc smaller port (and destroys it on the exhaust by 40 CFM). Lots of air speed....lots of air volume.....but you need the larger bore to take the most advantage of it....it just all works better that way
Look for a deal on a 4" bore short and have at it knowing you have a head to grow with down the road should you choose to stroke the engine at some point (and you will make alot of power with the standard stroke engine as well.....but a really good valvetrain is even more important here cause it will have a healthy appetite for RPM!! )
Please feel free to email or PM me if I can be of any assistance!
Cheers,
Tony
i am going to keep my eye out for lq9 short block.. I already see this build snowballing out of control$$ .
No sense on putting your 235 heads on the stock 5.7? Too big correct?
#10
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I think this is a sort of tall order being full weight, street car. Definitely need a 4k+ converter, aftermarket heads, and a well specd cam to match.
My combo has similar goals. Im running a 228/232 cam motion grind, advanced induction ported 799s, and a fast 92 and it runs 11.0s but at 3040 pounds.
My combo has similar goals. Im running a 228/232 cam motion grind, advanced induction ported 799s, and a fast 92 and it runs 11.0s but at 3040 pounds.
#11
I think this is a sort of tall order being full weight, street car. Definitely need a 4k+ converter, aftermarket heads, and a well specd cam to match.
My combo has similar goals. Im running a 228/232 cam motion grind, advanced induction ported 799s, and a fast 92 and it runs 11.0s but at 3040 pounds.
My combo has similar goals. Im running a 228/232 cam motion grind, advanced induction ported 799s, and a fast 92 and it runs 11.0s but at 3040 pounds.
I feel you on this. i have been doing tons of research. I really would like to do it stock bottom end but i may have to bite the bullet and go lq9..
I have been hearing good stuff on the advanced induction, but AFR OR MAMO is prob the way to go if im trying to get this thing in the 10's
#12
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I think this is a sort of tall order being full weight, street car. Definitely need a 4k+ converter, aftermarket heads, and a well specd cam to match.
My combo has similar goals. Im running a 228/232 cam motion grind, advanced induction ported 799s, and a fast 92 and it runs 11.0s but at 3040 pounds.
My combo has similar goals. Im running a 228/232 cam motion grind, advanced induction ported 799s, and a fast 92 and it runs 11.0s but at 3040 pounds.
#13
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Buddys HC 6.0 sbe fbody went 11.30s. So im faster then him by a bit. Another buddys went 10.6x at about the same weight but he was th400, bigger cam, and 4150 style intake.....so it seems mine runs on par. Tire/gearing isnt perfect so im gonna swap gears here soon to shoot for 10s but it doesnt have any left on the top end, its kinda a lower rpm combo which is hurting me some. It runs fantastic with power everywhere but I think that hurts me some when trying to make a number. I know of no other local hc 346 cars that run my et on motor, so I'm also not complaining.
#14
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I had essentially the same goals, while keeping my stock bottom end ~50k miles.
Ended up with 1 3/4 LT, BTR stage 3, TFS CNC 205's. I was not after max effort as this car is a driver. Next week it will hit the dyno and get a good tune via a reputable local tuner.
My opinion differs some, as I'm after usable power and feel anything over a 215cc Intake runner will hurt my usable powerband. Same thing goes for the 1 7/8 headers, been there done that on one of my first z06's. Never again on a stock cube LS1/6.
Having raced for the better part of 25 years, the car at full weight and 3:42 rear and 6 spd will be all over 10's in the 1/4 mile. It's very very strong.
Ended up with 1 3/4 LT, BTR stage 3, TFS CNC 205's. I was not after max effort as this car is a driver. Next week it will hit the dyno and get a good tune via a reputable local tuner.
My opinion differs some, as I'm after usable power and feel anything over a 215cc Intake runner will hurt my usable powerband. Same thing goes for the 1 7/8 headers, been there done that on one of my first z06's. Never again on a stock cube LS1/6.
Having raced for the better part of 25 years, the car at full weight and 3:42 rear and 6 spd will be all over 10's in the 1/4 mile. It's very very strong.
#17
Budget play is to build a killer 346 now and stroke it later should the need arise to a 383....the 220 will handle both extremely well.....you just cam it differently for the larger engine.
Im also about to release a brand new MMS head for the 346 crowd that's partially CNC'ed.....awesome choice if your in a budget and that head flows around 310 CFM legit with excellent low and mid lift numbers. More info on that in a thread I will be drafting up in the next week or so (but if you have the budget, the full CNC deal is naturally the way to go).
Cheers,
Tony
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www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
#18
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My 220 is perfect for a hard pounding 346....big airspeed so it acts like a smaller port in some respects helping to bolster the bottom end of the curve, but it also moves over 320 CFM and has the right CSA to really fill the cylinder up top.....enough on tap to feed a hungry 383 in fact and I designed it specifically with the 3.900 bore in mind.
Budget play is to build a killer 346 now and stroke it later should the need arise to a 383....the 220 will handle both extremely well.....you just cam it differently for the larger engine.
Im also about to release a brand new MMS head for the 346 crowd that's partially CNC'ed.....awesome choice if your in a budget and that head flows around 310 CFM legit with excellent low and mid lift numbers. More info on that in a thread I will be drafting up in the next week or so (but if you have the budget, the full CNC deal is naturally the way to go).
Cheers,
Tony
Budget play is to build a killer 346 now and stroke it later should the need arise to a 383....the 220 will handle both extremely well.....you just cam it differently for the larger engine.
Im also about to release a brand new MMS head for the 346 crowd that's partially CNC'ed.....awesome choice if your in a budget and that head flows around 310 CFM legit with excellent low and mid lift numbers. More info on that in a thread I will be drafting up in the next week or so (but if you have the budget, the full CNC deal is naturally the way to go).
Cheers,
Tony
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Well in 25 years of racing you shoulda learned a few things. One should be anything is possible, and two shoulda woulda coulda, but a time slip dont lie. Once you have one then get back with me.
#20
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You then decided to throw around my car does this with this. (That was a dig at my statement)
If you would like to discuss setting something up feel free....I'm game.