. I haven't completely decided yet but the 4 in definitely in the running. 
BTR Stage 3 vs BTR Stage 4 cam???
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BTR Stage 3 vs BTR Stage 4 cam??? Just wondering the difference in these two cams. The rwhp, driveability, powerband.... That type of stuff. Can't really decide which one. My car is a 2001 z28 with basic bolt ons and is only out on the weekends. Just wondering the difference or is it just splitting hairs with these two?
I have had good luck using both cams as they both perform very well. The stage 4 cam is about as big as you can get before you have PTV clearance issues. It is a big nasty cam that makes power higher up in the powerband. With the cam being so large the driveability suffers a bit but it can definitely be driven on the street. If you have an auto transmission you definitely want to have a good sized stall with this cam as it will absorb some of its bad habits. The Stage 3 cam is a little smaller and doesn't make power as high in the powerband but will offer better low end grunt. The driveability on this cam is very good with a good tuner. Since it the car sounds more like a fun cruiser I would go with the Stage 3 out of both of them just due to better driveability.
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Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
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Now that I think about it the 4 might have similar power down low as the 3 based on the specs. A few more degrees intake duration, but a tighter LSA with more advance. On paper it looks like the 4 could be just as good down low but with more top end pull
If you are wanting to keep the torque converter around a 3600 I would definitely stick with the stage 3 cam as it will have much better manners.
Here is a link to a pretty quick car I put together using the stage 4 cam. This car is more of drag car that gets driven on the street a little bit.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/10-second...-01-134-a.html
Here is a link to a pretty quick car I put together using the stage 4 cam. This car is more of drag car that gets driven on the street a little bit.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/10-second...-01-134-a.html
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
I have had good luck using both cams as they both perform very well. The stage 4 cam is about as big as you can get before you have PTV clearance issues. It is a big nasty cam that makes power higher up in the powerband. With the cam being so large the driveability suffers a bit but it can definitely be driven on the street. If you have an auto transmission you definitely want to have a good sized stall with this cam as it will absorb some of its bad habits. The Stage 3 cam is a little smaller and doesn't make power as high in the powerband but will offer better low end grunt. The driveability on this cam is very good with a good tuner. Since it the car sounds more like a fun cruiser I would go with the Stage 3 out of both of them just due to better driveability.
I wanted the Stage IV but Brian said no go with my milled heads. I have the Stage III w/3600 (and a good tune) and it is fine. Made 402 unlocked and 420 locked (11.60 motor). Time in sig is on a 150 shot.
If your heads are stock I would do the IV w/4000 stall and have fun!!
Last edited by ragtopz28; Jan 20, 2016 at 05:17 PM.
I have been running the stage 4 for 2 full years now. I have every bolt-on/supporting mod, and I have a manual. Through the 12-bolt, 3" steel driveshaft, 54lb clutch and 295/55/15 drag radials it made 471/406 to the wheels on a mustang dyno. I wanted a close to max effort type build and picked the stage 4 because of that. I can put it in 6th gear at 40mph (1000ish rpm) and putt around without any surging/bucking. But that is all in the tune. HP peaks at 6700.
As far as low end, the dyno started around 3600rpm, and the car was already making 370ft-lbs. Hits 400 ft lbs at 4500 and doesn't drop under 400 until 6000rpm. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. It also really enjoys nitrous if you ever consider it down the road.
As far as low end, the dyno started around 3600rpm, and the car was already making 370ft-lbs. Hits 400 ft lbs at 4500 and doesn't drop under 400 until 6000rpm. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. It also really enjoys nitrous if you ever consider it down the road.
Originally Posted by ezzlez28
I have been running the stage 4 for 2 full years now. I have every bolt-on/supporting mod, and I have a manual. Through the 12-bolt, 3" steel driveshaft, 54lb clutch and 295/55/15 drag radials it made 471/406 to the wheels on a mustang dyno. I wanted a close to max effort type build and picked the stage 4 because of that. I can put it in 6th gear at 40mph (1000ish rpm) and putt around without any surging/bucking. But that is all in the tune. HP peaks at 6700.
As far as low end, the dyno started around 3600rpm, and the car was already making 370ft-lbs. Hits 400 ft lbs at 4500 and doesn't drop under 400 until 6000rpm. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. It also really enjoys nitrous if you ever consider it down the road.
As far as low end, the dyno started around 3600rpm, and the car was already making 370ft-lbs. Hits 400 ft lbs at 4500 and doesn't drop under 400 until 6000rpm. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. It also really enjoys nitrous if you ever consider it down the road.
Well I run 28" tires for the nitrous, so the N/A times are a bit skewed. Usually bogs pretty bad out of the hole. 11.7 @ 121 was the best N/A time. If I put 26" tire on it for a few real passes I imagine it would hit a 11.4 or so. 3650 raceweight.
Advanced Induction 226cc LS6 heads.
Advanced Induction 226cc LS6 heads.