Block cleaning after machine work
Block cleaning after machine work What's up guys, question. How do I go about cleaning my engine block? I just got it back from the machine shop & they did cam bearings for me, among other things. So with the cam bearings installed can I clean this thing thoroughly? Like with dish detergent, pressure washer, & just real, real good? Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Get a set of engine brushes to scrub the oil passages. You can find them from Summit.
I use a pressure washer to knock off all the heavy crap, then mix up some detergent and hot water to dip the brushes in before scrubbing the passages, lifter bores, and cylinders. Then I use the pressure washer to wash it all out again.
After that, I spray WD40 on any iron machined surfaces so they don't rust, like the iron sleeves in an aluminum block. If you have compressed air, blow out all the bolts holes and oil passages. Before assembly, I will clean the cylinders with paper towels and ATF until there is no more grey grit showing on the paper towel. Then I use acetone after the ATF and finally coat the cylinders with oil until I'm ready to assemble.
I use a pressure washer to knock off all the heavy crap, then mix up some detergent and hot water to dip the brushes in before scrubbing the passages, lifter bores, and cylinders. Then I use the pressure washer to wash it all out again.
After that, I spray WD40 on any iron machined surfaces so they don't rust, like the iron sleeves in an aluminum block. If you have compressed air, blow out all the bolts holes and oil passages. Before assembly, I will clean the cylinders with paper towels and ATF until there is no more grey grit showing on the paper towel. Then I use acetone after the ATF and finally coat the cylinders with oil until I'm ready to assemble.
Callies h beams
Lunati 4" crank
Wiseco -3cc pistons
ARP hardware all around, head & main studs
Thanks bro that's what I wAnted to do as far as cleaning it. Just the cam bearings thru me for a loop! Lol!
Get a set of engine brushes to scrub the oil passages. You can find them from Summit.
I use a pressure washer to knock off all the heavy crap, then mix up some detergent and hot water to dip the brushes in before scrubbing the passages, lifter bores, and cylinders. Then I use the pressure washer to wash it all out again.
After that, I spray WD40 on any iron machined surfaces so they don't rust, like the iron sleeves in an aluminum block. If you have compressed air, blow out all the bolts holes and oil passages. Before assembly, I will clean the cylinders with paper towels and ATF until there is no more grey grit showing on the paper towel. Then I use acetone after the ATF and finally coat the cylinders with oil until I'm ready to assemble.
I use a pressure washer to knock off all the heavy crap, then mix up some detergent and hot water to dip the brushes in before scrubbing the passages, lifter bores, and cylinders. Then I use the pressure washer to wash it all out again.
After that, I spray WD40 on any iron machined surfaces so they don't rust, like the iron sleeves in an aluminum block. If you have compressed air, blow out all the bolts holes and oil passages. Before assembly, I will clean the cylinders with paper towels and ATF until there is no more grey grit showing on the paper towel. Then I use acetone after the ATF and finally coat the cylinders with oil until I'm ready to assemble.
Pressure wash cabinet at the machine shop, it's worth what most charge if anything at all and your block will come out looking like it's new, the 200* + water under extreme pressure gets what you cannot, Just saying.
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Verdad Gallardo If you don't have access to a pressure wash cabinet used by machine shops, sudsy soapy water on everything is better than trans fluid. Use Dawn dish washing soap because it cuts through grease and dissolves oil like magic.
Use plenty of compressed air afterwards to clear the ports and passages and blind bolt holes.
Immediately coat the cylinder bores and bearing saddles with WD40 to prevent rust from forming. You'll wipe this off during assembly.
Use plenty of compressed air afterwards to clear the ports and passages and blind bolt holes.
Immediately coat the cylinder bores and bearing saddles with WD40 to prevent rust from forming. You'll wipe this off during assembly.
If you don't have access to a pressure wash cabinet used by machine shops, sudsy soapy water on everything is better than trans fluid. Use Dawn dish washing soap because it cuts through grease and dissolves oil like magic.
Use plenty of compressed air afterwards to clear the ports and passages and blind bolt holes.
Immediately coat the cylinder bores and bearing saddles with WD40 to prevent rust from forming. You'll wipe this off during assembly.
Use plenty of compressed air afterwards to clear the ports and passages and blind bolt holes.
Immediately coat the cylinder bores and bearing saddles with WD40 to prevent rust from forming. You'll wipe this off during assembly.
You have to use the ATF on the cylinders though. The ATF is going to get the honing grit out of the cylinders better than soap water or even straight acetone. You can clean a block all day with soap and water, then wipe the cylinders with acetone until the paper towel comes out white, and then use ATF and there will still be honing grit coming out with the ATF.
Banned
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
From: North Bay, CA
I hand this out with the motors we machine for people to assemble themselves.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rcdjsoadi4...heet.docx?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rcdjsoadi4...heet.docx?dl=0
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 108
Likes: 1
From: Down under
Also if it's an LS6 and maybe later block, be sure to have a good look at the areas on the casting windows between the main webs that can trap dirt, I found some grit on there that can be easily missed.
Jason.
Jason.