another what heads/cam thread for street build
02-22-2016, 08:02 PM
#22
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I wouldn't rule out something smaller like a 224 cam or the EPS 222/226. I also like the idea of doing of untouched 243/799s with of course the proper spring. The mid range will be great in the twisties. There is topic going on in the dyno section on the EPS 222/226. If you are not doing gears, I would not go larger than ~228. 3.73s (assuming 6 speed) and a ~228 cam are fun in the twisties. I certainly like EPS and CamMotion for keeping it easy on parts but still making power. I would and have called and talked to both.
Also don't settle for a head which doesn't make good torque, just to have heads. I would rather build the car in stages. My game plan would be to settle on a cam and 243s, then fast 90, and then port the 243s or upgrade to AFR/TFS etc.
Also don't settle for a head which doesn't make good torque, just to have heads. I would rather build the car in stages. My game plan would be to settle on a cam and 243s, then fast 90, and then port the 243s or upgrade to AFR/TFS etc.
02-22-2016, 08:10 PM
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I wouldn't rule out something smaller like a 224 cam or the EPS 222/226. I also like the idea of doing of untouched 243/799s with of course the proper spring. The mid range will be great in the twisties. There is topic going on in the dyno section on the EPS 222/226. If you are not doing gears, I would not go larger than ~228. 3.73s (assuming 6 speed) and a ~228 cam are fun in the twisties. I certainly like EPS and CamMotion for keeping it easy on parts but still making power. I would and have called and talked to both.
Also don't settle for a head which doesn't make good torque, just to have heads. I would rather build the car in stages. My game plan would be to settle on a cam and 243s, then fast 90, and then port the 243s or upgrade to AFR/TFS etc.
Also don't settle for a head which doesn't make good torque, just to have heads. I would rather build the car in stages. My game plan would be to settle on a cam and 243s, then fast 90, and then port the 243s or upgrade to AFR/TFS etc.
02-22-2016, 08:29 PM
#24
How would the stock valve train do with a cam 222/226 cam? What about a 228 Could I get away with just some ls6 springs and stock everything else or is that asking for trouble? It seems like everyone upgrades the oil pump and timing chain and gears with the bugger cams. Would these cams necessitate that?
I would replace the oil pump, and timing chain while I was in there. You're there and especially the chain is a nice reliability upgrade in my opinion. At 16 years and 89k miles, I would think it would be a very good idea to do lifters, pump, and chain.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...eps-lobes.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...rformance.html
The 2 topics above begin to get into the various lobe series out there. I would call a few vendors and talk to them. I was impressed with my conversation with EPS. Brian Tooley Racing has also been great to deal with. I'm sure Tick, TSP, Vengeance etc could fill you in on what lobes they run and the changes required. If you are going to have Frost tune it, I would give him a shout too.
Last edited by 93Polo; 02-23-2016 at 08:33 PM.
02-22-2016, 09:38 PM
#25
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Don't forget pushrods. Cam, lifters, springs, pushrods are a system. Pushrods can flex and pole-vault the valve if they are too weak or the the valves are over-sprung
02-24-2016, 09:10 PM
#27
Cam
Dual spring kit
4130 push rods
ARP cam bolts
ARP crank bolt
Water pump, timing cover, timing seal gaskets
Melling High pressure pump
Bushing trunion upgrade with ARP hardware
IWIS timing chain
I would sell this for 1200.00 dollars shipped.
You can usually find a set of used 243/799 heads for roughly 400-500 dollars as well OP. LS6 intakes are running 350-500 dollars depending on whether or not they have throttle body, rails and injectors with the intake.
As far as cam specs go to achieve your wishes and driving style, this is what I would recommend:
226/230 .612/.595 112+2 ground on my proprietary Cam Motion lobes. This would give great low end and mid-range torque and if you ever felt like stretching the engines legs it will easily turn 6500rpm as well. It will also sound like you have a cam installed at idle with a moderate chop.
02-25-2016, 12:03 AM
#28
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Martin I may take you up on that. Ill PM you, btw you got a website I can peruse? Speaking of ls6 intake and injectors. Stock ls1 injectors enough for this or will I be way over 80% duty cycle. If Im over on the ls1 injectors would ls6 injector work?
Last edited by giddysauce; 02-25-2016 at 12:57 AM.
03-07-2016, 10:37 AM
#29
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Hey guys,
I know this question has been posed many times before but I gotta ask one more time. I'm mulling over the idea of keeping my 2000 M6 z28. Its got 89k miles and has developed a leaky rear main seal. I figure either I sell it as is or Fix the seal, add heads, and cam and drive it another 3 years or so. If I go the heads and cam route what the best value? Im mostly looking for area under the curve, reliability, driveabilty, and cost. It isnt my only car but I drive it 200 mile a week. I would like to maintain decent gas mileage and perhaps use factory lifters. Is that possible? I dont really rev it past 5500 rpm, and never launch or abuse it mostly just spirited driving through the foothills around here.
As the car is right now I have a fast toys ram air, pacesetter longtubes with true duals, and a tune by frost.
I know this question has been posed many times before but I gotta ask one more time. I'm mulling over the idea of keeping my 2000 M6 z28. Its got 89k miles and has developed a leaky rear main seal. I figure either I sell it as is or Fix the seal, add heads, and cam and drive it another 3 years or so. If I go the heads and cam route what the best value? Im mostly looking for area under the curve, reliability, driveabilty, and cost. It isnt my only car but I drive it 200 mile a week. I would like to maintain decent gas mileage and perhaps use factory lifters. Is that possible? I dont really rev it past 5500 rpm, and never launch or abuse it mostly just spirited driving through the foothills around here.
As the car is right now I have a fast toys ram air, pacesetter longtubes with true duals, and a tune by frost.
