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Oil pan doesn't leak, so we're good there.
Decided to paint the block black and got to masking everything.
Didn't turn out as pretty as I had hoped, but it's good enough.
Now to clearance the windage tray (I was told two washers will do) and oil pick up tube.
I got the woodruff key from the folks over at Manley, pressed on the sprocket and got camshaft and associated timing components on.
Noticeable difference between the ls1 and ls2 timing chain
Used two 3/8 washers and bolted up the windage tray without issue.Checked oil pan clearance and got between .28" and .30" after several measurements, so I'm good to go there, hopefully.
I then buttoned up all the covers and put on the head studs looking good so far! Next is to drill and tap for the alternator bracket and swap springs on the l92s.
I got the motor seated and motor mount bolts in! It took awhile, but I had my girl man the engine hoist while I "guided" everything in. Now the tranny, not sure how I'm going to get that bad boy in...think I can muscle it up there with a few floor jacks?
I literally just did this with my 408 last week. I bolted the tranny to the engine and then dropped it in. Is much easier then trying to wrestle it under the car IMO. Then just drop it in all together and your done... You do have to pull the passenger side motor mount base to do it that way though. Once the bellhousing passes the mounting bolt holes you can go ahead and put it back in and then mount the engine. Wish I would have taken pics while installing engine/trans but I forgot :/
I agree with you completely. That's how I pulled it actually. I was concerned about the added weight of the iron block and my little harbor freight hoist. I needed a longer boom arm so I figured I would save myself the stress and drop the motor in separately.
I finally got the trans bolted up and I don't look forward to fooling with that again anytime soon. I need to invest in a tranny jack. The new slave was preventing me from getting any bolts started, so I used some longer engine stand bolts and a bunch of washers to draw the trans closer to the bellhousing.
ahh...this is where i start to get REAL impatient.
I got the heads back (finally), slapped those on and need to install the rockers, pushrods, intake manifold, injectors...etc
I'm getting close fellas!
Question: There isn't an open vacuum provision on the back of the LS3 intake manifold. There is a little nipple that was capped off right next to the brake booster hose. Can't I drill that out and slide the vacuum hose over it?
ahh...this is where i start to get REAL impatient.
I got the heads back (finally), slapped those on and need to install the rockers, pushrods, intake manifold, injectors...etc
I'm getting close fellas!
Question: There isn't an open vacuum provision on the back of the LS3 intake manifold. There is a little nipple that was capped off right next to the brake booster hose. Can't I drill that out and slide the vacuum hose over it?
Yea takes like 2 seconds. Just twist the end off and drill with a small bit
The car is up and running, with no major issues (fingers crossed), but I'm still having issues trying to dial in the car's idle.
Pat G has sent me a couple of tunes to try and remedy. He said the car's IAC needs to be between 30 and 60. I have spent hours, adjusting the throttle stop screw and I'm either too high or low. I've replaced the IAC and TPS sensors. I'm using a WARR performance 92mm tb. It's a nice piece, and my sensors went on without issue.
I'm just not convinced the tb is the problem. Any ideas?
Idle issues squared away for now, just need to adjust the throttle body cable to open up 100% at WOT. That should be a simple fix.
I popped off the valve covers to double check the rocker arms and make sure they were torqued appropriately. All good there.
I didn't notice a crazy amount of metal on my most recent oil change. The drain plug had a type of fine sludge on it. That typical? I switched over to Rotella 15w-40 at this time too.
Can't wait to dyno tune and see what she puts down.
Anything else I should consider/ look into at this time?
New issue: My TB (92mm Warr Performance) is only opening about 80%...I zip tied the cable at the gas pedal and have tried adjusting the throttle cable at the plastic clip in the engine bay.
The car is equipped with TCS. I'll keep fiddling with it.
Any recommendations?
New issue: My TB (92mm Warr Performance) is only opening about 80%...I zip tied the cable at the gas pedal and have tried adjusting the throttle cable at the plastic clip in the engine bay.
The car is equipped with TCS. I'll keep fiddling with it.
Any recommendations?
Where's it stopping? Is it at the throttle stop or does the pedal just not have enough travel to get to 100%?
A few updates: I got the throttle opening at 100% now. Had to bend the pedal and use zip ties.
I took the car down to Victoria for some final dyno tuning (Mustang Dyno) from Pat G. The car maxed out at ~46x rwhp and about the same for torque, but I'm dissapointed in the numbers. Car feels really strong, but what do ya'll see?
Car drives well around town, I was expecting a bit more in terms of power.
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