Why did I come up short?? 487hp is not 500+
03-04-2016, 11:25 AM
#23
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Sometimes, the motor makes its best power with less timing. Mine makes best power at 25 degrees. Agree with 1-7/8.
Agreed. take about 8 HP off the motor load. You could also invest in electric power steering pump or manual steering to take some more load off the motor. Either or both are cheaper/easier than going back in for corrective surgery.
I agree with you, but the fact is that dyno numbers sell, and it's something we can all relate to. it's the way our hobby is. But yes, different dynos read differently, etc, etc. OP, are you less happy with the build just because you missed a dyno number, or are you driving it and thinking it's still too slow?
~490HP puts you in rare company
Originally Posted by Thunderstruck507
electric water pump is another good idea
Originally Posted by LLLosingit
Not sure why people are so stuck on dyno numbers when how it goes down the road is what really matters
~490HP puts you in rare company
03-04-2016, 11:55 AM
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Easiest way to get closer without totally ripping into the car again would be 1 7/8 Headers and an electric waterpump. What kind of gas are you running? 93 I'm guessing. Did you degree the cam when it was installed? Turned down LS3 valves will help to lighten the top end and give more valve stability, especially if you're going to road race, but as for actual HP gains it's negligible. I've also heard that turning them down a lot can weaken the valve too much.
Very impressive numbers none the less. Do you have a graph you could post?
Very impressive numbers none the less. Do you have a graph you could post?
what kind of low speed timing are you guys running?
I'm wondering if 1-7/8 headers would help the drivability issue too - car wants to die when coming to a stop, or sometimes will not catch itself and will die.
no graph of the final pulls yes since the car is still being tuned. wishing i would've snapped a pic, but I thought we were going to make more hits.
electric waterpump will likely come down the road - was wanting to get there without it though because then it would help more. haha
03-04-2016, 11:59 AM
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no one builds a car to go 'faster' they build it to go 'as fast as ____' or have some goal in mind.
yes, numbers are only 1/2 of it. but if you can have a car drive about the same as another but make 20, 30, or 50 hp more than another, which would you drive?
I agree though, a dyno queen will throw down STUPID numbers - good luck drivng it though. This was supposed to be drivability FIRST and 500 second... but if I cant have one then damnit I want the other. lol so far I have neither! lol
03-04-2016, 12:00 PM
#26
Based on the numbers & a stock CR, looks like an LS2, 6.0L. If it is a 5.7L, he aughtta be very happy.
OP, bump the SCR to 11.5 & the DCR to 8.4-8.5 on 93 octane & you'll be there. Your numbers do point toward the engine being a 6.0L unless it's not running the actual stock CR (not a thinner head gasket).
03-04-2016, 12:01 PM
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Sometimes, the motor makes its best power with less timing. Mine makes best power at 25 degrees. Agree with 1-7/8.
Agreed. take about 8 HP off the motor load. You could also invest in electric power steering pump or manual steering to take some more load off the motor. Either or both are cheaper/easier than going back in for corrective surgery.
I agree with you, but the fact is that dyno numbers sell, and it's something we can all relate to. it's the way our hobby is. But yes, different dynos read differently, etc, etc. OP, are you less happy with the build just because you missed a dyno number, or are you driving it and thinking it's still too slow?
~490HP puts you in rare company
Agreed. take about 8 HP off the motor load. You could also invest in electric power steering pump or manual steering to take some more load off the motor. Either or both are cheaper/easier than going back in for corrective surgery.
I agree with you, but the fact is that dyno numbers sell, and it's something we can all relate to. it's the way our hobby is. But yes, different dynos read differently, etc, etc. OP, are you less happy with the build just because you missed a dyno number, or are you driving it and thinking it's still too slow?
~490HP puts you in rare company
Time will tell though.
sounds like I should prolly order some 1-7/8 headers...
03-04-2016, 12:05 PM
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+1
Based on the numbers & a stock CR, looks like an LS2, 6.0L. If it is a 5.7L, he aughtta be very happy.
OP, bump the SCR to 11.5 & the DCR to 8.4-8.5 on 93 octane & you'll be there. Your numbers do point toward the engine being a 6.0L unless it's not running the actual stock CR (not a thinner head gasket).
Based on the numbers & a stock CR, looks like an LS2, 6.0L. If it is a 5.7L, he aughtta be very happy.
OP, bump the SCR to 11.5 & the DCR to 8.4-8.5 on 93 octane & you'll be there. Your numbers do point toward the engine being a 6.0L unless it's not running the actual stock CR (not a thinner head gasket).
Stock compression ratio too...
dont get me wrong i'm stoked - especially for 'stock heads' but I missed the ball somewhere I think and left a bit on the table.
HG is an ACDelco GM original PN too - so .040" thickness (or whatever they are stock lol)
was trying to prove a point of how good a PROPERLY build LS6 can be even with massaging stock parts and not throwing the check book at it.
A set of trick or AFR's and I would have made it for sure - but I would've also spent 2-3x more on the heads
03-04-2016, 12:08 PM
#30
Stock are .051" -.054" ish.
As noted, bigger long tubes or more compression. 1-7/8" long tubes, more compression & the related tune would be the best scenario. So, going down to an .040" gasket would mean that you would not need to machine the heads. Just be sure to check PTV clearance.
As noted, bigger long tubes or more compression. 1-7/8" long tubes, more compression & the related tune would be the best scenario. So, going down to an .040" gasket would mean that you would not need to machine the heads. Just be sure to check PTV clearance.
03-04-2016, 12:08 PM
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Sometimes, the motor makes its best power with less timing. Mine makes best power at 25 degrees. Agree with 1-7/8.
Agreed. take about 8 HP off the motor load. You could also invest in electric power steering pump or manual steering to take some more load off the motor. Either or both are cheaper/easier than going back in for corrective surgery.
I agree with you, but the fact is that dyno numbers sell, and it's something we can all relate to. it's the way our hobby is. But yes, different dynos read differently, etc, etc. OP, are you less happy with the build just because you missed a dyno number, or are you driving it and thinking it's still too slow?
~490HP puts you in rare company
Agreed. take about 8 HP off the motor load. You could also invest in electric power steering pump or manual steering to take some more load off the motor. Either or both are cheaper/easier than going back in for corrective surgery.
I agree with you, but the fact is that dyno numbers sell, and it's something we can all relate to. it's the way our hobby is. But yes, different dynos read differently, etc, etc. OP, are you less happy with the build just because you missed a dyno number, or are you driving it and thinking it's still too slow?
~490HP puts you in rare company
How many posts are there about people wanting 500? but there isnt a LOT on how to get there. I wanted (and still do) to change that.
basically i tried to "have my cake and eat it too" but someone smashed my head in the cake before I could take a bite. Then they took the damn thing away leaving me with nothing - AND looking dumb. lol
03-04-2016, 12:17 PM
#32
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Stock are .051" -.054" ish.
As noted, bigger long tubes or more compression. 1-7/8" long tubes, more compression & the related tune would be the best scenario. So, going down to an .040" gasket would mean that you would not need to machine the heads. Just be sure to check PTV clearance.
As noted, bigger long tubes or more compression. 1-7/8" long tubes, more compression & the related tune would be the best scenario. So, going down to an .040" gasket would mean that you would not need to machine the heads. Just be sure to check PTV clearance.
I went with stock HG because of PTV - it was already snug.
do you think 1-7/8 would help or solve the idle/stopping and dieing issue?
next time the motor comes apart I will for sure hit 500 (higher compression and lighter rockers and going to dramatically reduce squish) - but again, wasnt the goal. it was to prove you can hit it on a reasonable budget. basically wanted to get a recipe for people almost.
03-04-2016, 12:19 PM
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Stock are .051" -.054" ish.
As noted, bigger long tubes or more compression. 1-7/8" long tubes, more compression & the related tune would be the best scenario. So, going down to an .040" gasket would mean that you would not need to machine the heads. Just be sure to check PTV clearance.
As noted, bigger long tubes or more compression. 1-7/8" long tubes, more compression & the related tune would be the best scenario. So, going down to an .040" gasket would mean that you would not need to machine the heads. Just be sure to check PTV clearance.
03-04-2016, 12:34 PM
#34
You should validate the numbers on the track; check the MPH as it could be quicker than the dyno tells you, or not. I completely get where you are going with this optimized build and I am excited to see these results.
I am working around a 163K mile LS1 short block (a factory LS6 block unicorn), LS6 intake and ported 78mm TB, BTR SLR lifters and standard dual .660 springs, Cam Motion 228/234 .627"/.618" 112+3, PRC Stg 1 799s over OEM LS1 head gaskets, Comp trunioned stock rockers, 1-3/4" primaries into 3" duals, and some other bits and bobs to make it as good as I can on a budget. If I run a number that looks within 50hp of what you have presented here I will be beyond thrilled.
I am working around a 163K mile LS1 short block (a factory LS6 block unicorn), LS6 intake and ported 78mm TB, BTR SLR lifters and standard dual .660 springs, Cam Motion 228/234 .627"/.618" 112+3, PRC Stg 1 799s over OEM LS1 head gaskets, Comp trunioned stock rockers, 1-3/4" primaries into 3" duals, and some other bits and bobs to make it as good as I can on a budget. If I run a number that looks within 50hp of what you have presented here I will be beyond thrilled.
03-04-2016, 12:42 PM
#35
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You should validate the numbers on the track; check the MPH as it could be quicker than the dyno tells you, or not. I completely get where you are going with this optimized build and I am excited to see these results.
I am working around a 163K mile LS1 short block (a factory LS6 block unicorn), LS6 intake and ported 78mm TB, BTR SLR lifters and standard dual .660 springs, Cam Motion 228/234 .627"/.618" 112+3, PRC Stg 1 799s over OEM LS1 head gaskets, Comp trunioned stock rockers, 1-3/4" primaries into 3" duals, and some other bits and bobs to make it as good as I can on a budget. If I run a number that looks within 50hp of what you have presented here I will be beyond thrilled.
I am working around a 163K mile LS1 short block (a factory LS6 block unicorn), LS6 intake and ported 78mm TB, BTR SLR lifters and standard dual .660 springs, Cam Motion 228/234 .627"/.618" 112+3, PRC Stg 1 799s over OEM LS1 head gaskets, Comp trunioned stock rockers, 1-3/4" primaries into 3" duals, and some other bits and bobs to make it as good as I can on a budget. If I run a number that looks within 50hp of what you have presented here I will be beyond thrilled.
make sure that the head CFM @ XXX" lift will support a cam that big. my only 2 cents i'd add.
It will get there and I will post back and update it (along with about 4 other threads I need to as well)
03-04-2016, 12:46 PM
#36
oh ok, then they were that. They were OE gaskets - thought I remembered .040.
I went with stock HG because of PTV - it was already snug.
do you think 1-7/8 would help or solve the idle/stopping and dieing issue?
next time the motor comes apart I will for sure hit 500 (higher compression and lighter rockers and going to dramatically reduce squish) - but again, wasnt the goal. it was to prove you can hit it on a reasonable budget. basically wanted to get a recipe for people almost.
I went with stock HG because of PTV - it was already snug.
do you think 1-7/8 would help or solve the idle/stopping and dieing issue?
next time the motor comes apart I will for sure hit 500 (higher compression and lighter rockers and going to dramatically reduce squish) - but again, wasnt the goal. it was to prove you can hit it on a reasonable budget. basically wanted to get a recipe for people almost.
As far as being hung up on a dyno number, it's literally a change in the correction factory away from being 500. It wont make 500 on a Mustang dyno either so I'm not even sure what the big deal is.
Take it to a track and see how the car runs.
03-04-2016, 01:09 PM
#38
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Again, car will never - not a pass in its life - see the strip/christmas tree