Looking for info on the fast 102 intake over an ls6 intake. If i go fast i will do bigfer theottle body too. Car already has an ls6 (told by po) but if it will benifit more i will go fast.

Also what springs, valves, rockes etc would u recommend for 799 heads.

Car has slp intake, long tubes, catback, ory, egr delete, air pump delete, and ported tb.

Will be getting a cam soon still unsure as of what. Also car is not dd but when it is it is run on the freeway so need to retain driveabilty.

 

What vehicle, which transmission, rear gears, etc? Details, sir, we need to the details.

Overall, you will probably want some hollow stem stainless steel intake valves, sodium filled stainless steel exhaust valves are preferred but hollow stem is fine, too. Lots of people run hollow stem LS3 intake valves turned down to a smaller diameter, if that is all you can afford. Get Brian Tooley dual platinum springs with the titanium retainers. Use stock rockers with Martin Smallwood upgraded trunions.

The hollow stem stainless intake/exhaust valves, BTR dual platinum springs, and upgraded trunion stock rockers are going to be about as good as it gets without getting stupid expensive.

Other than that, if you are in an F-body, I am pretty sure the Fast 102/102 won't fit under the factory cowl. The ls6 intake is pretty much the best bet for the F-body cars. The ls6 intake is a very good intake for being a factory piece.

Ditch the Y-pipe and go to a true dual exhaust system before getting a new cam. After you have true dual exhaust, call Martin Smallwood for your cam.

 

Fast102/102 will absolutely fit under the f body cowl.

 

Its a 2000 camaro, 6 speed. Not sure what gears.

This is the list of upgrades from previous owner. I since took the air lid off and switched it for the slp cold air setup, line lock and umi strut tower brace. Im unsure of the brands or model of the exhaust parts.

Performance:
799 Heads
ARP Head Bolts
GM Performance Head Gaskets
LS6 Intake Manifold
Air Lid
ORY
EGR Delete
Air Pump Delete
Headers
Cat-back Exhaust
Skip Shift Eliminator
Hurst Short Throw Shifter
TB Coolant Bypass
Drilled and Slotted Rotors
Ceramic Brake Pads
Ported TB
Steel fuel lines
Possibly partially built trans
Welded Subframe Connectors
BMR AA020 Tubular Lower A-Arms
Energy Suspension Sway Bar Links

As far as exhaust i want to do true duals but for an fbody they are hard to come by and i dont want to make it to loud. I planned on putting electric cutouts after the headers on.

 

Thats what i thought but will it be worth getting rid of the ls6

 

A lot depends on a lot. Are the heads ported? Is there an aftermarket cam? How big are the long tubes?

If you have a >224 cam and your heads were ported and your headers are 1-7/8 and you plan to go true duals, you'll net 20-30 hp from the fast.

Here's the catch. You also need LS2 water pump. Get the nick Williams throttle, not the fast throttle. And get the fast fuel rails. It's more than just the intake. May as well get it ported also. That's another 5-10 depending on who ports it.

Price all that and then ask yourself if the power is worth the price. To some it is, to others it isn't.

 

My bad, I was under the impression that the Fast 102 didn't fit under the cowl, it must be the Fast truck intake that does not fit. Either way, I think I would stick with the ls6 intake until it's holding you back.

A true dual system doesn't have to be loud, just depends on the parts you choose. And I found several under $500 online with one search.

I still say to ls6 valves, or similar hollow stem stainless valves (intake and exhaust), BTR platinum duals, and stock rockers with upgraded trunions.

Then call Martin Smallwood for a cam.

 

The heads are not ported. I have no idea on what the headers are or exhaust. The guy i bought it from didnt know.

 

With a bunch of mystery parts and unknowns, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the Fast intake is not a worthwhile upgrade for you at this point.

You could get some 1-7/8" headers and a simple 224/224/112 cam, along with the valves and springs, and be way better off than just throwing a Fast intake on the pile of parts you have now. At least this is my opinion on the matter. I think that if you establish a good base with simple, proven parts that you know exactly what they are, you will be better off than just adding expensive parts to a mystery engine.

 

Where are most markings at on the headers, ory and exhaust at. Id really like to know so i will probably start crawling under it to find out. If not i might just ditch everything and start over.(exhaust wise)

 

Different companies mark their products in different ways, some may not have any real distinguishable labeling denoting the tube diameter. You could measure the outside of the pipe with calipers easy enough, and that should give you an idea of the internal diameter.

Either way, I would ditch the Y-pipe and go to a true dual exhaust system with a proper scavenge pipe (X-pipe or H-pipe).