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Need help choosing valve springs

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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 11:13 AM
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Default Need help choosing valve springs

Got a good deal on a cam but i need some help choosing a set of valve springs. Here is the motor specs

LH6 aluminum 5.3
Flat top Pistons
317 heads
Vic Jr intake
Will be running the fitech throttle body

It's got an ls6 cam and springs in it right now but if I'm going to change the cam I'd like to do the springs too, just not too sure where to start.

Here is the cam specs

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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 03:30 PM
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Keep it simple and replace just the springs with some PAC-1211X. Keep the stock hardware in there as it is just fine.
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 04:20 PM
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I thought I would want something a bit heavier. Those don't seem too much heavier than the ls6 spring. Not doubtin you, I'm still learning lol
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BIG BRUTE
Got a good deal on a cam but i need some help choosing a set of valve springs. Here is the motor specs

LH6 aluminum 5.3
Flat top Pistons
317 heads
Vic Jr intake
Will be running the fitech throttle body

It's got an ls6 cam and springs in it right now but if I'm going to change the cam I'd like to do the springs too, just not too sure where to start.

Here is the cam specs

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all U.S. made components
$399.99+ freight man
give us a call today and we can send them your direction
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 07:54 PM
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No matter what I build I always use a dual spring.
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Taxman20
No matter what I build I always use a dual spring.
That's what I'm thinking especially since I plan on throwing a turbo at it next year
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Old Apr 13, 2016 | 05:45 AM
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http://www.briantooleyracing.com/660...pring-kit.html
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Old Apr 14, 2016 | 03:14 PM
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^^^ those are plenty for what you are doing.
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Old Apr 14, 2016 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboBuick6
Keep it simple and replace just the springs with some PAC-1211X. Keep the stock hardware in there as it is just fine.
I agree with this. Heavier springs are not necessarily better springs. More mass to move around. Higher spring rates are not always better, either. More wear and tear on components than there needs to be. If you significantly increase spring rates, you should also upgrade the push rods and rocker arms.

OEM and aftermarket are using beehive springs for a lot of reasons. I'v been racing with them for years with good results.
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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by .boB
I agree with this. Heavier springs are not necessarily better springs. More mass to move around. Higher spring rates are not always better, either. More wear and tear on components than there needs to be.
AGREED, ESPECIALLY if you must drive the car EVERY day, and it is NOT a garage queen/weekend toy, or a full on, get every last 1/10 HP, trailored race car.

My stock, except for some Comp; early, low spring pressure beehives, Ti retainers, pushrods WAY BACK when it was 1 year old (bought/ordered it new in 12/99) LS1 has gone 185K+ miles, not all of them easy either.

IF the damned lifters did not go out (and it's not even all of them), necessitating a head removal/rebuild, it probably could have gone another 150K+ miles!!
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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 06:35 PM
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This definitely won't be a daily driver. Street but mostly strip use.

The other issue I'm trying to work through is if my mix match of parts is going to work together. The cam has a single bolt timing gear so I need to change that as well Im trying to figure out if I can use my 6010 msd with the front mount cam sensor. I know I can extend the harness and switch the wires to make that work.
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