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Engine gets stuck while turning over

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Old 05-07-2016, 02:53 PM
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Default Engine gets stuck while turning over

I have a 2002 LQ9 that I'm replacing my LS1 with. I brought it home and pulled the intake and accessories and it turned over great.

I put my 98 trans am's oil pan, windage tray, oil pump and timing cover and harmonic balancer on then put the engine in the car; mistakenly without turning it over again that I can remember until I went to go install the converter bolts.

Installed poly motor mount and bolted the 4L60e transmission on and it will turn over by hand then stop. I can turn it counter clockwise 180 degrees and it will stop again.

I can turn the converter over easily with my fingers so it's not binding on the flexplate. I read the LS1 timing covers are the same and it shouldn't matter

Last edited by Genhero; 05-07-2016 at 03:22 PM.
Old 05-07-2016, 06:38 PM
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Piston possibly hitting a valve? Pull the rocker arms and and see if it will turn over.
Old 05-07-2016, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by unit
Piston possibly hitting a valve? Pull the rocker arms and and see if it will turn over.
The engine turned over fine before I swapped the pan, windage tray and pump. The the rotating assembly is stock and heads were never touched, so clearance shouldn't be an issue.

I pulled the engine again. I guess I'll find out tomorrow if the rods are hitting the windage tray or the pump is binding
Old 05-07-2016, 08:42 PM
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I would bet the rods are hitting the windage tray.
Old 05-07-2016, 08:58 PM
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could very well be the bolt used for the thrust plate on the cam, if the bolt is too long the crank counter weight will hit it and stop your engine from turning.. you would think its a valve hitting a piston but this was more of a solid hit and i already had the cam out, so what i had done was when i took the cam out i removed the thrust plate and set it aside and threaded the bolt back in by hand it was then long enough to cause interference between it and the crank counter weight.. so maybe somehow a longer bolt got put in your camshaft thrust plate.. idk just thought id put the idea out there for ya peace hope its something smiple.. i can't remember for sure but i think there are much longer bolts on the timingchain cover or on the cam gear maybe even the valley cover, possibly even your oil pump, if i remember right, the cam retainer plate/thrust plate has shorter bolts than the rest

Last edited by the404man; 05-07-2016 at 09:06 PM.
Old 05-08-2016, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by the404man
could very well be the bolt used for the thrust plate on the cam, if the bolt is too long the crank counter weight will hit it and stop your engine from turning.. you would think its a valve hitting a piston but this was more of a solid hit and i already had the cam out, so what i had done was when i took the cam out i removed the thrust plate and set it aside and threaded the bolt back in by hand it was then long enough to cause interference between it and the crank counter weight.. so maybe somehow a longer bolt got put in your camshaft thrust plate.. idk just thought id put the idea out there for ya peace hope its something smiple.. i can't remember for sure but i think there are much longer bolts on the timingchain cover or on the cam gear maybe even the valley cover, possibly even your oil pump, if i remember right, the cam retainer plate/thrust plate has shorter bolts than the rest
I never touched the cam or the retainer plate :/

I just took off the oil pan and windage tray, no change. Going to grab a harmonic balancer puller now to pull the oil pump. The cylinder head intake was taped so I don't think anything fell in. Hopefully I'll find something when I pull the pump.
Old 05-08-2016, 12:25 PM
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Default Engine gets stuck while turning over

I don't see where you said, you took off the timing chain, but if you did make sure your timing dots are lined up. Mine was off by a tooth and my engine would turn 3/4ths a revolution and the bind, if I forced it, it would then turn over and stop in the same place. Correcting the timing alleviated that problem..if you find that engine is bound by something with a flexplate, please report back here.

Last edited by Strokedluxury; 05-08-2016 at 12:36 PM.
Old 05-08-2016, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Strokedluxury
I don't see where you said, you took off the timing chain, but if you did make sure your timing dots are lined up. Mine was off by a tooth and my engine would turn 3/4ths a revolution and the bind, if I forced it, it would then turn over and stop in the same place. Correcting the timing illuminated that problem..if you find that engine is bound by something with a flexplate, please report back here.
It's on an engine stand now. The flex plate doesn't touch anything. I didn't remove the chain but I will check the dots now, it might have jumped a tooth because I don't see how a melling oil pump could bind the crankshaft after 180 degree turn.

Thanks for the replies. Any other ideas are appreciated.
Old 05-08-2016, 12:34 PM
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I have a melling pump as well and now that I have my engine in the car. My mechanic said the engine is stuck, so I am in very like situation with my LQ4. So if I find anything ill make sure to let you know.
Old 05-08-2016, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Strokedluxury
I have a melling pump as well and now that I have my engine in the car. My mechanic said the engine is stuck, so I am in very like situation with my LQ4. So if I find anything ill make sure to let you know.
I just took off the oil pump... Same issue. Damn.

The only thing I could think of now is something got in multiple cylinder or the chain jumped a tooth. I can't check dot to dot unless I pull the chain and reset it. The turning stops when both dots are at the 12 o clock position
Old 05-08-2016, 02:21 PM
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Lame.

Took of the passenger side head and there was some corrosion on the wall. Put some oil on it and worked it until it went. The wall is nice and clean again.

Atleast I know nothing was in the engine.
Old 05-08-2016, 03:12 PM
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You got it going...?
Old 05-08-2016, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by joecar
You got it going...?
Yeah, I just took the passenger cylinder head off and rubbed oil on the rear most pistons cylinder wall. Could have save myself a headache if I just put a little in the spark plug holes to begin with.

Oh well, lesson learned. At least I know nothing fell in the engine and it is back together besides needing to wait for a new head gasket and bolts.

Last edited by Genhero; 05-08-2016 at 03:59 PM.
Old 05-19-2016, 06:12 AM
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The engine turned over fine before I swapped the pan, windage tray and pump. The the rotating assembly is stock and heads were never touched, so clearance shouldn't be an issue.

I pulled the engine again. I guess I'll find out tomorrow if the rods are hitting the windage tray or the pump is binding
.................................................. .......................

so the engine was never turned over earlier as you stated
Old 05-19-2016, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by omalley34male
The engine turned over fine before I swapped the pan, windage tray and pump. The the rotating assembly is stock and heads were never touched, so clearance shouldn't be an issue.

I pulled the engine again. I guess I'll find out tomorrow if the rods are hitting the windage tray or the pump is binding
.................................................. .......................

so the engine was never turned over earlier as you stated

It was turned over multiple times when I first got it (I remember because I made a joke about it while doing it -- it was the first thing I did when I got it home). However, I'm only near the car on Saturdays, so it had been about 3 weeks before the engine was ready to go in and it had a flexplate lock on it to change the harmonic balancer bolt. During those 3 weeks we had a lot of rain, very cold days and days in the 70s. Without the sparkplugs in and no cover on the engine, it had time to build up some crud on the cylinder walls of 2 of the cylinders.

The crud was solid enough that I didn't want to force through it but when I touch it with oil it wiped right off no problem.

Everything is back together now. I'm just waiting for my ECU to come back in and I have to install the headers this weekend and I'll be able to start it.
Old 05-19-2016, 03:57 PM
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2 weeks of exposure to open air, creating a film of rust that wiped off, didn't cause the engine to lock up....Keep looking once the head is back on....
Old 05-19-2016, 04:19 PM
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I had the cylinder head off and could physically see it hitting the rust spot and stopping. It wasn't just rust there was carbon on the pistons that had lifted off and when I turned the engine upside-down on the stand and it stuck to the wall so the piston was trying to break up the carbon. The head is already back on, I cleaned out the carbon off the pistons and a family of spider eggs that had moved in and everything turns over fine. As far as I'm concerned, its going to get started as is because if I have to pull that engine again, it is going to get parted out.

Its been way too long since it has been driven and a 370z has been called me for the last 6 months that I couldn't drive it, lol.

Thanks for the advice though, I appreciate it but this Trans Am is on borrowed time if it's not running this weekend.
Old 05-19-2016, 04:25 PM
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That couldn't have been the issue..
Old 05-19-2016, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mavn
That couldn't have been the issue..
Sorry to disappoint
Old 05-20-2016, 07:06 AM
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And, now for the "rest of the story"..
It wasn't just rust there was carbon on the pistons that had lifted off and when I turned the engine upside-down on the stand and it stuck to the wall so the piston was trying to break up the carbon.

Where's the bs flag??


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