Cracked block after machining - help please
I brought in my motor to this shop for machining service, decked, honed etc.. After about $3,400 in work. I received my engine block with a Hairline crack thats leaking a lot of coolant, that I had to discover once I paid to install the motor. The shop refuses to make it right and wants me to pay for everything. I've spoken to some people already and many are telling me that this was due to an over-torqued headbolt or uncleaned bolt hole. The crack is right outside the bolt. I have pictures of the the hairline crack.
My mechanic is giving me a statement saying the crack wasn't there nor was leaking coolant in any way shape or form before handing over to the machinist. He is more than willing to put his credibility on the line for this as he's angry that I have to experience this. (CLM Auto Serving the Boston area 27+ 100+ reviews averaging 9/10 stars)
Has anybody else experienced this after machine work or have pictures of their damage after over-torquing? Any help is greatly appretiated.
Please let me know if anyone is able to help or at least direct me to someone who has experienced this. If anyone has more questions about anything just let me know. This situation is driving me crazy, Im just a young guy who busts his ***** working for my car and now I feel like I've literally been robbed by paying nearly 4 grand and getting back a cracked block.
Thanks in Advance.

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These are blind holes, whoever installed the heads is responsible for this mistake.
They do use a coolant to keep cutting tools cool. maybe a rookie machinist learned
on that block. Why would a block come back from the machine shop with liquid
in the bolt holes?

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although my word doesn't matter, he even told me he had a horrible time installing the heads. But I'm sure he won't admit that.
At this point my attorney just told me to gather statements from people who have experienced this. Its very overwhelming to do all this without my car and working like a horse everyday.
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on it before putting the heads on. And your not going to tell me there was some left over from the machine shop. Now we know the machine shop installed
heads, did they install heads before cleaning the block, no they installed them on
a clean block. Just my opinion.
It's hard to believe the machinist would be at fault. Whatever coolant may have made it in the bolt holes should have been cleaned out when the block was washed. Any residual water or other fluid that may have been in the bolt holes would have drained out while the block was upside down as the main bearings and crank were installed.
Maybe I'm biased, but it seems more likely that if the crack was from torquing the bolt with fluid in the hole, it was done before hand. I personally have never seen an instance where the block cracks from over torque; usually the threads let go but the block doesn't crack unless there is a hydrolock.
Last edited by KCS; May 13, 2016 at 06:30 PM.
took to the machine shop, and while doing the machine process some machinist tool coolant (don't know what it is called)
was in the holes as they bolted the torque plate down. I am not a machinist so I do not know how the process takes place, but the only time bolts entered bolt holes was during
torque plate bolt on, we know a machinist wouldnt assemble with a wet block, so now my question is when did the crack appear? there was only 2 times the bolts were torqued down,
torque plate and assembly. I can be completely wrong, But I just go through the whole
process from removing from car to final assembly of engine and I only come up with bolts entering holes 2 times, and i cannot see where there would be liquid in the holes at any other time. I hope that is more clear. I don't want to start an issue that is just my thought.
took to the machine shop, and while doing the machine process some machinist tool coolant (don't know what it is called)
was in the holes as they bolted the torque plate down. I am not a machinist so I do not know how the process takes place, but the only time bolts entered bolt holes was during
torque plate bolt on, we know a machinist wouldnt assemble with a wet block, so now my question is when did the crack appear? there was only 2 times the bolts were torqued down,
torque plate and assembly. I can be completely wrong, But I just go through the whole
process from removing from car to final assembly of engine and I only come up with bolts entering holes 2 times, and i cannot see where there would be liquid in the holes at any other time. I hope that is more clear. I don't want to start an issue that is just my thought.
While one side is being honed, the uncovered side is usually at such an angle that the coolant wouldn't really get into the bolt holes either. It's going to most likely look something like this:

I'm not trying to argue and I'm not saying the machinist didn't do it. I'm just saying, from a machinist's perspective, it's very unlikely and would be a hard story to sell.
I think some of the important details are left out from removing engine from car to final assembly of engine. Mystery will never be solved with out all of the details.
I will have the statement this week which I hope people will take me more seriously. Its as simple as the engine has been used since 2004 46k miles, never had any coolant leak whatsoever in its history. Given to this machine shop and now its leaking coolant like a waterfall. I understand their is some grey area in this but to someone who's not as knowledge as you all, it seems almost logical to me what happened.
Once again: Nearly 30 years of High credibility being put on the line for this.
Chain of command: Mechanic (Disassembly) > Machinist (Machining service decked honed, FULLY Re-assembled With Invoice to Prove > back to Mechanic to install the motor and thats it.
Please If anybody has any questions at all or can help me I'd greatly appreciate it and have absolutely nothing to hide. Im just a young guy who works his A** off for my wife (My Caddy) and I feel like I've been ripped the hell off. Lost $3400 and got back a cracked motor. This really sucks. Im not sure if this makes any difference but, The motor doesn't sound to well either it has a very slight Tickingish noise.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated and Im willing to even pay for help/advice.
Thank you.
put in there and screwed tight, when and where that happened is a problem your not going
to solve on a keyboard, unless its on video somewhere. At this point what you need is a
block, you do not have to buy everything again. Try to work something out with the
machinist on a block if that bridge is not burned. Good luck.







