Build question:
It mentions not installing them for the cam degree process but it also says to not install with an aftermarket cam. Is there a reason for this as the book does not give an explanation why? I find it odd as I thought the tray helps keep the lifter aligned correctly. I am installing Texas Speed LQ9 heads that have been milled 0.030 with their 224 cam with .600/.600 lift and 112 LSA. They assured me that I would not have any valve to piston clearance issues. I am ordering parts and want to know if I need the lifter trays or not. I have Googled my question but have not found an answer.
I am a new member here but have been lurking and researching for about a year. This is where I got the head and cam package idea. Sorry for the long post but I figured I would give as much info as possible.
They tell you not to use the lifter trays because they want you to run different lifters that have the link bars on each pair (like the sbc solid roller lifters). This way they have no chance of spinning.
Thank you for the info. I was planning on the LS7 lifters from reading I have done but the non use of the trays stumped me. I have read the design of the valve train helps the lifters self center but as I said I am just a newbie to these engines. I have been working on cars for 42 years but mostly the muscle car era engines into the early 90's stuff. Then I got into diesels. The power capabilities of these LS engines is truly remarkable and that is what led me into researching getting one and rebuilding it for my Rock Crawler Jeep. I was truly amazed that an engine with 120,000 miles on it showed so little wear in the bearings, I was so amazed I initially thought someone had freshened it up before but the bearings all say standard for size. The rod and main journals are in excellent shape also, so a good thorough cleaning and new bearings and checking of clearances and I should be good to go. The harness cutting will be my biggest nightmare as I am not an electrical guru at all.
However, as you know, technology advances and gets improved tremendously (such as the coyote motor).
http://www.briantooleyracing.com/lif...y-lifters.html They have everything you need and most people on here buy parts from them.
I bought the Morel 5315 set and they are just a little more than the GM LS7 set. And I am only at .578 lift. This was after a lot a research on all the lifters. Johnsons are also great lifters but I didn't want to spend that much. No, I will not get into the lifter debate. LOL You can search them on here and find tons of info.
And I am assuming the new heads have good springs in them.
http://www.briantooleyracing.com/lif...y-lifters.html They have everything you need and most people on here buy parts from them.
I bought the Morel 5315 set and they are just a little more than the GM LS7 set. And I am only at .578 lift. This was after a lot a research on all the lifters. Johnsons are also great lifters but I didn't want to spend that much. No, I will not get into the lifter debate. LOL You can search them on here and find tons of info.
And I am assuming the new heads have good springs in them.
Thanks for the info I will research these lifters, as for my springs they are PAC racing springs. Texas Speed said they are good to .650 lift. I got fully assembled heads with some options. I honestly was kind of hoping when I tore it down the crank would be bad so I could justify a 408 stroker kit LOL However that is not the case it shows very little wear.

