LQ4 Torque Build
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Teching In
Joined: May 2016
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From: Alabama
LQ4 Torque Build Hey guys. This is my first post on this forum so bare with me. I'm still wet behind the ears with alot of this LS stuff but I'm learning fast. I'm building a 2000 3/4 ton 4WD with the early iron block/head LQ4. It was ran hot a little by the previous owner and it has some cold piston slap so I'm going to go through it while I have it out to spray the chassis.
So far I have a complete gasket and seal kit, wires, plugs, ARP header bolts, and a few other small things waiting on me.
I plan on 243 heads, dish pistons, a smallish cam (212/218 or so), valve springs, pushrods, oil pump, timing kit, bearing kit, PCM tune (undecided on octane), 1 3/4 LT headers, 3" dual stainless exhaust with X pipe and magnaflow mufflers.
Does that sound good and what else would y'all do if it was yours?
Thanks,
Nick
So far I have a complete gasket and seal kit, wires, plugs, ARP header bolts, and a few other small things waiting on me.
I plan on 243 heads, dish pistons, a smallish cam (212/218 or so), valve springs, pushrods, oil pump, timing kit, bearing kit, PCM tune (undecided on octane), 1 3/4 LT headers, 3" dual stainless exhaust with X pipe and magnaflow mufflers.
Does that sound good and what else would y'all do if it was yours?
Thanks,
Nick
TECH Veteran
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,892
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From: Mississippi
Sounds like a solid combo/plan but you never mention exactly what springs, oil pump, lifters you plan on running..
If I was in your shoes....
I'll avoid using any cam using a comp core. Go with a cam motion core.
I'll try not to use LS7 lifters.. morel 5315 seems to be nicer for a little more money.
Do chromoly pusrods.
On the oil pump I would considered you going with a LS6 ported piece or another aftermarket brand.
Whats the lift on the camshaft you mentioned ?
If I was in your shoes....
I'll avoid using any cam using a comp core. Go with a cam motion core.
I'll try not to use LS7 lifters.. morel 5315 seems to be nicer for a little more money.
Do chromoly pusrods.
On the oil pump I would considered you going with a LS6 ported piece or another aftermarket brand.
Whats the lift on the camshaft you mentioned ?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
Sounds like a solid combo/plan but you never mention exactly what springs, oil pump, lifters you plan on running..
If I was in your shoes....
I'll avoid using any cam using a comp core. Go with a cam motion core.
I'll try not to use LS7 lifters.. morel 5315 seems to be nicer for a little more money.
Do chromoly pusrods.
On the oil pump I would considered you going with a LS6 ported piece or another aftermarket brand.
Whats the lift on the camshaft you mentioned ?
If I was in your shoes....
I'll avoid using any cam using a comp core. Go with a cam motion core.
I'll try not to use LS7 lifters.. morel 5315 seems to be nicer for a little more money.
Do chromoly pusrods.
On the oil pump I would considered you going with a LS6 ported piece or another aftermarket brand.
Whats the lift on the camshaft you mentioned ?
TECH Veteran
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,892
Likes: 703
From: Mississippi
Ws6 store has some PAC beehive springs that's rated to 600 lift for a 140 bucks. Those would be a better route to take for reliability and last longer than the GM springs. The 210/218 cam seems to be a solid performer. Avoid using stock lifters.... I know you don't want to build a motor then have it making a tapping sound on start ups... invest in some quality lifters
Hey guys. This is my first post on this forum so bare with me. I'm still wet behind the ears with alot of this LS stuff but I'm learning fast. I'm building a 2000 3/4 ton 4WD with the early iron block/head LQ4. It was ran hot a little by the previous owner and it has some cold piston slap so I'm going to go through it while I have it out to spray the chassis.
So far I have a complete gasket and seal kit, wires, plugs, ARP header bolts, and a few other small things waiting on me.
I plan on 243 heads, dish pistons, a smallish cam (212/218 or so), valve springs, pushrods, oil pump, timing kit, bearing kit, PCM tune (undecided on octane), 1 3/4 LT headers, 3" dual stainless exhaust with X pipe and magnaflow mufflers.
Does that sound good and what else would y'all do if it was yours?
Thanks,
Nick
So far I have a complete gasket and seal kit, wires, plugs, ARP header bolts, and a few other small things waiting on me.
I plan on 243 heads, dish pistons, a smallish cam (212/218 or so), valve springs, pushrods, oil pump, timing kit, bearing kit, PCM tune (undecided on octane), 1 3/4 LT headers, 3" dual stainless exhaust with X pipe and magnaflow mufflers.
Does that sound good and what else would y'all do if it was yours?
Thanks,
Nick
Are you using an oversized piston, like for a 4.020" or 4.030" bore?
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 12
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From: Alabama
Ws6 store has some PAC beehive springs that's rated to 600 lift for a 140 bucks. Those would be a better route to take for reliability and last longer than the GM springs. The 210/218 cam seems to be a solid performer. Avoid using stock lifters.... I know you don't want to build a motor then have it making a tapping sound on start ups... invest in some quality lifters
Nick
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Teching In
Joined: May 2016
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From: Alabama
I wouldn't use dished pistons if you're wanting torque. Go with flat tops instead. The compression ratio will basically be the same as a stock LS2, so it won't be anything crazy or unsuitable for regular pump gasoline.
Are you using an oversized piston, like for a 4.020" or 4.030" bore?
Are you using an oversized piston, like for a 4.020" or 4.030" bore?
As far as overbore, it depends on what the machine shop has to do. I don't know yet. But I will do whatever I have to do.
Nick
I was thinking dish pistons with the 243 heads so I didn't have super high compression ratio. From what I've read, the 243 heads should be around 10.5:1 with stock pistons. Flat tops and 243 heads would be 11:1 at least I'd imagine. I don't want to loose the ability to run lower octane gas if it ever gets to $5 a gallon again because this will be my daily driver.
As far as overbore, it depends on what the machine shop has to do. I don't know yet. But I will do whatever I have to do.
Nick
As far as overbore, it depends on what the machine shop has to do. I don't know yet. But I will do whatever I have to do.
Nick
I've run 89 octane in my car when it was 11:1 and it was fine, but that could vary depending on who you have tune it.
If you're having an issue with cold piston slap, the piston to wall clearance is probably too large and will most likely need an oversized piston to fix it. Most stock replacement type pistons will be 4.020" or 4.030". Not sure what dish volumes are available but they're probably close to stock.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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From: Alabama
The LQ4 has a 6.7cc dished piston which ends up at around 10.2:1. With a flat top, you should end up at around 11:1. You can play with an online calculator, like this one, to see where you end up with different heads, gaskets, etc.
I've run 89 octane in my car when it was 11:1 and it was fine, but that could vary depending on who you have tune it.
If you're having an issue with cold piston slap, the piston to wall clearance is probably too large and will most likely need an oversized piston to fix it. Most stock replacement type pistons will be 4.020" or 4.030". Not sure what dish volumes are available but they're probably close to stock.
I've run 89 octane in my car when it was 11:1 and it was fine, but that could vary depending on who you have tune it.
If you're having an issue with cold piston slap, the piston to wall clearance is probably too large and will most likely need an oversized piston to fix it. Most stock replacement type pistons will be 4.020" or 4.030". Not sure what dish volumes are available but they're probably close to stock.
Last edited by Bigbamaboy65; May 24, 2016 at 04:10 PM.
I don't want to loose the ability to run lower octane gas if it ever gets to $5 a gallon again because this will be my daily driver.
On a more serious note...a proper tune, which you should be getting anyway, will make it so that the car can run both on 93 and 87 octane. Tell that to your tuner and if you chose a good shop that should be no problem.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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From: Alabama
That's a poor reason to go with low compression, especially when building an engine specifically for torque. You save what, like 30 cents a gallon or 5 bux a fillup? If 5 bux a week breaks your bank then maybe a Honda is better suited for your needs.
On a more serious note...a proper tune, which you should be getting anyway, will make it so that the car can run both on 93 and 87 octane. Tell that to your tuner and if you chose a good shop that should be no problem.
On a more serious note...a proper tune, which you should be getting anyway, will make it so that the car can run both on 93 and 87 octane. Tell that to your tuner and if you chose a good shop that should be no problem.
FWIW, an 853 head has a 66cc chamber and a 317 head has a 71cc chamber, so those would not have the same CR.
I HAD to run 93 octane.
87 will be a bit tougher and require some more tuning, but 91 is fine. my 10.9:1 GTO recommends 91 and above.
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From: Mississippi