Best tool for removing valve springs
06-15-2016, 10:22 PM
#1
Best tool for removing valve springs Had machine shop install some new springs i had laying around and they will bind with my cam. How much is it for the machine shop to install? Should i buy a tool and do it my self? Im going with btr double springs and i cant use the old fashion method of hammering a socket on top, and hydraulic valve spring tools are expensive. This will be a one time thing, how much can i expect to pay for machine shop?
06-16-2016, 06:11 AM
#3
If the heads are off the car, then you can borrow the "C" clamp type from Autozone and do them yourself. If you don't know how, that can be easily explained. If the heads are on the car already, then the Crane spring changer is the best one out there in my opinion. However, it won't fit all heads. Need to know more about your current configuration to provide better input.
06-16-2016, 08:16 AM
#5
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If you have a cam that large you'll need to be checking them or changing them a lot more often. Buy a good tool. It's fairly easy to do if you pay attention and get the piston up on the cylinder you're working on.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...cjIaAr4q8P8HAQ
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...cjIaAr4q8P8HAQ
06-16-2016, 08:28 AM
#6
I tried the eBay / everyone else with a trigger finger and some bar stock compressor and found it extremely difficult to keep the tool from pulling the retainer to the side. I then found it even harder to swallow the 3 Titanium and 2 sodium-filled valves I had nicked(within valve seal travel unfortunately) as a result.
That being said, many have had success with the flat bar tool.
I ended up with the Crane tool and it is fantastic. Pushes straight down and really confirmed for me it is the /right/ tool for the job. Well worth the $80 or so. Liked it so much I bought the straight/cathedral port and offset/LS3/92/9 versions. Use good grease on the moving parts often and it will serve you well.
So my vote is spend the money on the Crane tool then sell it used for $30 off retail if you just know you won't use it again.
A machine shop around here would charge $50 at most to do it if they aren't measuring/shimming and just blindly installing. Takes them literally less than 5 minutes. So that is an option too. Just know that such shops, even for a 5 minute job, often run a tight schedule and can't/won't stop and do it for you right then. Might sit for a week or so.
That being said, many have had success with the flat bar tool.
I ended up with the Crane tool and it is fantastic. Pushes straight down and really confirmed for me it is the /right/ tool for the job. Well worth the $80 or so. Liked it so much I bought the straight/cathedral port and offset/LS3/92/9 versions. Use good grease on the moving parts often and it will serve you well.
So my vote is spend the money on the Crane tool then sell it used for $30 off retail if you just know you won't use it again.
A machine shop around here would charge $50 at most to do it if they aren't measuring/shimming and just blindly installing. Takes them literally less than 5 minutes. So that is an option too. Just know that such shops, even for a 5 minute job, often run a tight schedule and can't/won't stop and do it for you right then. Might sit for a week or so.
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06-16-2016, 12:01 PM
#10
That's awesome. Looks even easier to use than the Crane tool. With that said, I've been using the Crane tool for as long as I can remember. (2008 probably 
And it's extremely easy to use. It may not be the fastest way of getting the job done but it will get it done without issue, 100% of the time.
Just keep the threads lubed up. Don't over tighten it to the AL heads. And make sure the stud doesn't get threaded too far down before you start. Sometimes it will turn while you're tightening/compressing the springs and will not leave you enough thread when loosening, leaving you with loaded springs.
And it's extremely easy to use. It may not be the fastest way of getting the job done but it will get it done without issue, 100% of the time. Just keep the threads lubed up. Don't over tighten it to the AL heads. And make sure the stud doesn't get threaded too far down before you start. Sometimes it will turn while you're tightening/compressing the springs and will not leave you enough thread when loosening, leaving you with loaded springs.
06-16-2016, 05:14 PM
#12
I tried the eBay / everyone else with a trigger finger and some bar stock compressor and found it extremely difficult to keep the tool from pulling the retainer to the side. I then found it even harder to swallow the 3 Titanium and 2 sodium-filled valves I had nicked(within valve seal travel unfortunately) as a result.
That being said, many have had success with the flat bar tool.
I ended up with the Crane tool and it is fantastic. Pushes straight down and really confirmed for me it is the /right/ tool for the job. Well worth the $80 or so. Liked it so much I bought the straight/cathedral port and offset/LS3/92/9 versions. Use good grease on the moving parts often and it will serve you well.
So my vote is spend the money on the Crane tool then sell it used for $30 off retail if you just know you won't use it again.
A machine shop around here would charge $50 at most to do it if they aren't measuring/shimming and just blindly installing. Takes them literally less than 5 minutes. So that is an option too. Just know that such shops, even for a 5 minute job, often run a tight schedule and can't/won't stop and do it for you right then. Might sit for a week or so.
That being said, many have had success with the flat bar tool.
I ended up with the Crane tool and it is fantastic. Pushes straight down and really confirmed for me it is the /right/ tool for the job. Well worth the $80 or so. Liked it so much I bought the straight/cathedral port and offset/LS3/92/9 versions. Use good grease on the moving parts often and it will serve you well.
So my vote is spend the money on the Crane tool then sell it used for $30 off retail if you just know you won't use it again.
A machine shop around here would charge $50 at most to do it if they aren't measuring/shimming and just blindly installing. Takes them literally less than 5 minutes. So that is an option too. Just know that such shops, even for a 5 minute job, often run a tight schedule and can't/won't stop and do it for you right then. Might sit for a week or so.
Ever.
06-16-2016, 06:17 PM
#13
How many of those 300 sets were specifically LS9 heads? If some, did you closely inspect every valve stem for nicks? TBH, I could have run these but I just didn't want to chance the slight roughness buzz-sawing through a valve seal.
I reported the issue to the very popular seller of those tools on this very forum and he immediately refunded all of my money and indicated that he had "heard of this happening to a few other customers but hadn't figured out the pattern."
I don't seek to slam him or his product specifically but when you can spend $50 more and have a tool that is far superior, I think it's hard to look past. I could eat everything with a fork but holy hell it's great to spend a little more to get the spoon and knife, too.
Last edited by Mercier; 06-16-2016 at 06:28 PM.
06-16-2016, 07:49 PM
#14
Ok; I normally don't but I'll bite.
How many of those 300 sets were specifically LS9 heads? If some, did you closely inspect every valve stem for nicks? TBH, I could have run these but I just didn't want to chance the slight roughness buzz-sawing through a valve seal.
I reported the issue to the very popular seller of those tools on this very forum and he immediately refunded all of my money and indicated that he had "heard of this happening to a few other customers but hadn't figured out the pattern."
I don't seek to slam him or his product specifically but when you can spend $50 more and have a tool that is far superior, I think it's hard to look past. I could eat everything with a fork but holy hell it's great to spend a little more to get the spoon and knife, too.
How many of those 300 sets were specifically LS9 heads? If some, did you closely inspect every valve stem for nicks? TBH, I could have run these but I just didn't want to chance the slight roughness buzz-sawing through a valve seal.
I reported the issue to the very popular seller of those tools on this very forum and he immediately refunded all of my money and indicated that he had "heard of this happening to a few other customers but hadn't figured out the pattern."
I don't seek to slam him or his product specifically but when you can spend $50 more and have a tool that is far superior, I think it's hard to look past. I could eat everything with a fork but holy hell it's great to spend a little more to get the spoon and knife, too.
06-16-2016, 08:14 PM
#15
Not bragging about the heads though they are nice..but shut the f#$k up for a second and you might learn something. LS9s have a different retainer design that very closely hugs the stem of the valve. Any side-loading at all and it starts to damage the valve. Haven't looked into the "why" of the retainer design but that sad excuse of a tool(piece of bar stock and a couple of holes) stands no chance of applying pressure straight down on the retainer. It swings in an arc and therefore side-loads just like a rocker. It doesn't have the nice smooth surface like the rocker tip, therefore drags the retainer toward the rocker mounting hole/valve cover rail from which pivots.
You might be OK most of the time with standard LS1/6/etc. style retainers but this not a "good" tool IMO.
You might be OK most of the time with standard LS1/6/etc. style retainers but this not a "good" tool IMO.
06-16-2016, 08:41 PM
#17
The disclaimers from the other folks in the thread are spot on. You ARE supposed to check things to make sure it is right. Many don't and the BTR spring kit bolts on and works great but nobody here is steering you wrong. Maybe ask the machine shop how much to really set them up "right" vs just slap them in and make your decision then.
06-17-2016, 07:01 AM
#20
If the heads are on, I used the $22 ebay tool. Worked like a charm and had them all swapped in no time. If off the car, then even easier like all the posts above stated.
The trick for me was a large screwdriver. The ebay clamp had a tendency to push the retainer off center. I just used a large screwdriver to push it back and it went together easily.
I will say the one squarles67 made is pretty awesome though! You could easily make that with a $5 c-clamp from harbor freight and a piece of scrap metal. If I did these on a regular basis, his would be the ticket!
The trick for me was a large screwdriver. The ebay clamp had a tendency to push the retainer off center. I just used a large screwdriver to push it back and it went together easily.
I will say the one squarles67 made is pretty awesome though! You could easily make that with a $5 c-clamp from harbor freight and a piece of scrap metal. If I did these on a regular basis, his would be the ticket!