yet another cam bearing question (after machine shop) and oil pump
#1
yet another cam bearing question (after machine shop) and oil pump
Ok so I brought my block to the shop the bearings I brought were wrong according to machinist, so he used clevites.
I picked up block got home saw big scratches in the rear bearing and middle and cracking on the front.
So I returned it and today picked it up and they are replaced but they look as if someone has sanded or honed them is this a normal practice?
It test fit my stock cam not the one I'm using and it fits well he test fit a cam aswell.
Its a 4.8 we had bored 3.800 and lunati rods and wieseco pistons balanced and crank balanced too. Figured I would add that if anyone was curious as to what I'm working on. I'm just really picky and mildy concerned about my cam bearings of all things.
Also he suggested I use a hi pressure oil pump is that wise?
I picked up block got home saw big scratches in the rear bearing and middle and cracking on the front.
So I returned it and today picked it up and they are replaced but they look as if someone has sanded or honed them is this a normal practice?
It test fit my stock cam not the one I'm using and it fits well he test fit a cam aswell.
Its a 4.8 we had bored 3.800 and lunati rods and wieseco pistons balanced and crank balanced too. Figured I would add that if anyone was curious as to what I'm working on. I'm just really picky and mildy concerned about my cam bearings of all things.
Also he suggested I use a hi pressure oil pump is that wise?
#4
Theres so many things wrong here.
My opinion is if you get bearings back from a machinist and they look like they have been
sanded or honed, then they tell you to use a high pressure oil pump, I would start over with a different machinist. Im not going to say what my opinion is of post # 2 and 3.
Good luck
My opinion is if you get bearings back from a machinist and they look like they have been
sanded or honed, then they tell you to use a high pressure oil pump, I would start over with a different machinist. Im not going to say what my opinion is of post # 2 and 3.
Good luck
Last edited by slogo; 07-15-2016 at 06:58 PM.
#6
That's MISTER MODERATOR
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Very often, cam bearings need to be "adjusted" to get the cam to fit. This is why they need your cam to do bearings.
How experienced is the machinist with LS engines? LS engines have more internal leakage than other engines, a little more oil pressure is rarely a bad thing.
How experienced is the machinist with LS engines? LS engines have more internal leakage than other engines, a little more oil pressure is rarely a bad thing.
#7
Launching!
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When I dropped off my LQ9 my machine shop for cam bearings and some othere work, my guy wanted my cam too.
This was new to me so I asked him why and he explained sometimes the cam clearances on these LS motors are out of whack. Which as backwards as it sounds to me, it means it's probably acceptable practice to hone the bearings. He did not have to do anything to my durabond bearings though.
This was new to me so I asked him why and he explained sometimes the cam clearances on these LS motors are out of whack. Which as backwards as it sounds to me, it means it's probably acceptable practice to hone the bearings. He did not have to do anything to my durabond bearings though.
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#9
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What is it with the LS blocks and cam bearings? I've drove in tons of cam bearings myself on old SBC and BBC, never had a single issue. I'm worried to do them on the LS block, and it looks like most machine shops can't get it right either.
#12
Moderator
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On the Gen III blocks, the cam tunnel ID's should be:
2.3260-2.3280" for 1 & 5
2.3161-2.3181" for 2 & 4
2.3063-2.3083" for 3
I haven't had to repair a block for a spun cam bearing yet, but if I needed to, I would just probably try honing them all to 2.3270" and putting in cam bearings for 1 & 5 in all 5 holes. If 1 or 5 is damaged, the Gen IV blocks have an even larger ID at 1 & 5.
I wouldn't worry too much about scratches in the cam bearings. They're not like rod or main bearings where they are gently laid in their caps/saddles and gently clamped onto the journal. They are beaten into their bores with a large hammer and the cam is slid in from the front of the block and each journal and lobe passes across each bearing. If the cam bearings do not have scratches fresh from the machine shop, then they probably didn't test fit a cam.
2.3260-2.3280" for 1 & 5
2.3161-2.3181" for 2 & 4
2.3063-2.3083" for 3
I haven't had to repair a block for a spun cam bearing yet, but if I needed to, I would just probably try honing them all to 2.3270" and putting in cam bearings for 1 & 5 in all 5 holes. If 1 or 5 is damaged, the Gen IV blocks have an even larger ID at 1 & 5.
I wouldn't worry too much about scratches in the cam bearings. They're not like rod or main bearings where they are gently laid in their caps/saddles and gently clamped onto the journal. They are beaten into their bores with a large hammer and the cam is slid in from the front of the block and each journal and lobe passes across each bearing. If the cam bearings do not have scratches fresh from the machine shop, then they probably didn't test fit a cam.
#14
He did test fit a cam but it was a stock one, he would not used my durabond coated bearing he said they were wrong.
He said if my cam is to tight he will polish it down for clearance.
The hi pressure oil pump recommendation was his idea based on the how long the oil travels thru the block he thinks this will help premature lifter failure. Me I don't know but I spent a lot on the machine work and if I knew exactly what part number for the cam bearings I would put them in myself.
He said if my cam is to tight he will polish it down for clearance.
The hi pressure oil pump recommendation was his idea based on the how long the oil travels thru the block he thinks this will help premature lifter failure. Me I don't know but I spent a lot on the machine work and if I knew exactly what part number for the cam bearings I would put them in myself.