5.3 + LQ9 cam + new 862 heads need build advice
#41
Restricted User
For the IAT sensor, get the plastic GM one that's press-in for like $8, has a couple of plastic ribs on it. I always just use a 1/2" drill bit, drill a hole, and hammer the sensor in with a piece of wood and a couple of good wacks. 3 intakes and high boost, and zero issues.
The EGR looking hole on the side of the newer truck intake, I drilled out the smaller hole right above it with the 1/2" and hammered my IAT in there. no epoxy or anything.
The EGR looking hole on the side of the newer truck intake, I drilled out the smaller hole right above it with the 1/2" and hammered my IAT in there. no epoxy or anything.
#42
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
For the IAT sensor, get the plastic GM one that's press-in for like $8, has a couple of plastic ribs on it. I always just use a 1/2" drill bit, drill a hole, and hammer the sensor in with a piece of wood and a couple of good wacks. 3 intakes and high boost, and zero issues.
The EGR looking hole on the side of the newer truck intake, I drilled out the smaller hole right above it with the 1/2" and hammered my IAT in there. no epoxy or anything.
The EGR looking hole on the side of the newer truck intake, I drilled out the smaller hole right above it with the 1/2" and hammered my IAT in there. no epoxy or anything.
This sensor?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...FRApaQodhToAbQ
#43
Restricted User
That looks like the one, but the connector is usually shorter on the ones I buy. I don't know if there is a difference. They are ACDelco as well. I'll try to dig up a part number. A quick google search and I found them for like $7.95 shipped.
Its so much easier to just use a standard 1/2" drill bit and a hammer than worrying about finding a decent sized boss to thread/tap and then tape.
Its so much easier to just use a standard 1/2" drill bit and a hammer than worrying about finding a decent sized boss to thread/tap and then tape.
#44
All about easier and cheaper! lol get that part number up.
I understand about the PAC springs, everyone raves about them. they are only like $200 which isn't a lot but when springs are $60 and the cam is so mild (brink of LS6 springs capability) The costs just add up.
Ive read people who run the LS6 spring on the TFS cam, its just an added cost, If I'm running LS6 springs I wouldnt bother upgrading the pushrods but the PAC springs I would do it which is minimum $100 more cost. So going from LS6 springs to PAC = pushrods where at like $250 more.
LS6 cam and springs GM RPM redline is 6500rpms. Lift is about the same between the LS6 cam and TFS cam (.550ish to .560) but then you have the lobe differences/ramps which is where the difference lies. No doubt the TFS is more aggressive than the LS6 cam so maybe the LS6 springs aren't strong enough on the seat.
I understand about the PAC springs, everyone raves about them. they are only like $200 which isn't a lot but when springs are $60 and the cam is so mild (brink of LS6 springs capability) The costs just add up.
Ive read people who run the LS6 spring on the TFS cam, its just an added cost, If I'm running LS6 springs I wouldnt bother upgrading the pushrods but the PAC springs I would do it which is minimum $100 more cost. So going from LS6 springs to PAC = pushrods where at like $250 more.
LS6 cam and springs GM RPM redline is 6500rpms. Lift is about the same between the LS6 cam and TFS cam (.550ish to .560) but then you have the lobe differences/ramps which is where the difference lies. No doubt the TFS is more aggressive than the LS6 cam so maybe the LS6 springs aren't strong enough on the seat.
#45
Restricted User
PAC1218 springs can be had for less than $150 shipped. I've recently been using Howard's springs. Similar to 1218s. No problems as of yet but I've been getting them for like $125. Shop around a bit. Either spring has low enough open pressures to prevent you from needing to upgrade pushrods. I've never bent one with either spring.
Apparently I've used a couple of different IAT sensors on my last few builds.
The ACDelco version is the exact one you posted, ForceFed86
Here is the Delphi one:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dfp-ts10072
The part numbers cross reference.
Here is how it installed into the intake. Nothing but a 1/2" drill and a hammer. You cannot remove it without breaking it, once its in there, its not moving. Pressure tested to 30 PSI with no leaks.
Apparently I've used a couple of different IAT sensors on my last few builds.
The ACDelco version is the exact one you posted, ForceFed86
Here is the Delphi one:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dfp-ts10072
The part numbers cross reference.
Here is how it installed into the intake. Nothing but a 1/2" drill and a hammer. You cannot remove it without breaking it, once its in there, its not moving. Pressure tested to 30 PSI with no leaks.
#46
What are the howard springs part #?
PAC1218 = $197 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsc-pac-1218-16
But Ive seen them new for $140+6 shipping.
So if you remove it and break it then you have to make sure nothing goes in the intake right? BTW the FAST 3/8"NPT IAT sensors are only like $10 each.
PAC1218 = $197 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsc-pac-1218-16
But Ive seen them new for $140+6 shipping.
So if you remove it and break it then you have to make sure nothing goes in the intake right? BTW the FAST 3/8"NPT IAT sensors are only like $10 each.
#47
Restricted User
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-98113
Howards springs. .600 max lift and they're only $120 shipped from Summit.
They have similar pressure to the PAC1218s. The PAC springs only have ~8-10 lbs more pressure at .550 lift than the LS6 springs do.
Howards springs. .600 max lift and they're only $120 shipped from Summit.
They have similar pressure to the PAC1218s. The PAC springs only have ~8-10 lbs more pressure at .550 lift than the LS6 springs do.
#48
Liking the price and the specs.
The Howards fit in the stock heads? I have 5.3 heads so not sure if thats different. They seem to have a 100lb increase in spring rate. I wonder how that equates out to seat pressure and open rate... too much for stock LS7 lifters?
The Howards fit in the stock heads? I have 5.3 heads so not sure if thats different. They seem to have a 100lb increase in spring rate. I wonder how that equates out to seat pressure and open rate... too much for stock LS7 lifters?
#49
Restricted User
The lb/in rating shouldn't be paid too much attention to. I don't think you're going to run that much lift lol.
LS6 springs have an open pressure of 294 lbs @ 1.25" (.550 lift)
Howards springs have an open pressure of 332 lbs at 1.25" (.550 lift)
PAC1218s have an open pressure of 318 lbs @ 1.2" (.600 lift).
The PAC springs only have around 10 lbs more pressure at .550 lift than the stock LS6 springs. The Howards do have more, but we are talking 13% more than LS6 springs. Not a significant increase.
LS6 springs have an open pressure of 294 lbs @ 1.25" (.550 lift)
Howards springs have an open pressure of 332 lbs at 1.25" (.550 lift)
PAC1218s have an open pressure of 318 lbs @ 1.2" (.600 lift).
The PAC springs only have around 10 lbs more pressure at .550 lift than the stock LS6 springs. The Howards do have more, but we are talking 13% more than LS6 springs. Not a significant increase.
#50
Restricted User
Btw, Speed Engineering seems to be a sponsor of this site (their banner is listed next to the Gen V Internal Engine board) so I'm allowed to post a link lol.
They have PAC1218s for $145 shipped on their ebay store. I don't know why they are more on their website.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAC-LS-Valve...pWevlD&vxp=mtr
They have PAC1218s for $145 shipped on their ebay store. I don't know why they are more on their website.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAC-LS-Valve...pWevlD&vxp=mtr
#51
Thank you, think I'm sold on the howards. Speed Engineering...Thats where I saw the PACs for 139.99 + $6 shipping in the post above.
I think the LS6 would have been fine but max lift and coil bind are an issue. It think the howards are a good mix of price compared to the PACs.
I think the LS6 would have been fine but max lift and coil bind are an issue. It think the howards are a good mix of price compared to the PACs.
#52
So guys, yesterday was the first time I took the car on its longest journey like 1hr each way. It was tropical hot (95*F+ with stupid humidity) out which is why I did it to see how the car would do. And I noticed that I spend a lot of time between 1400-2400rpms lol. Mainly with a 2400 stall and 2004R I have to put it into OD which automatically locks my billet lockup converter to kee the Rpms down for 40+mph so I can limit heat buildup in the motor. With the stock cam it's fine and all is well but how would this be with the trick flow at 216/220? I would hate to loose that ability to cruis at 1200rpms in 4th at 40mph on a flat/light grade. Otherwise dropping to 3rd/drive releases the lockup and my Rpms increase and more heat.
My car doesn't run hot, temps actually are around 160-180 depending on driving and will get to 190/200 if I do a lot of hot city style driving by not getting above 40mph and keeping the Rpms up.
So do I need to go smaller on the cam if I plan to still try to do the same thing? If the 216/220 is gona feel like poo for the cruising part that kinda ruins the fun ya know. Maybe the LQ9 or a smaller 205/210 is better suited? Thoughts?
My car doesn't run hot, temps actually are around 160-180 depending on driving and will get to 190/200 if I do a lot of hot city style driving by not getting above 40mph and keeping the Rpms up.
So do I need to go smaller on the cam if I plan to still try to do the same thing? If the 216/220 is gona feel like poo for the cruising part that kinda ruins the fun ya know. Maybe the LQ9 or a smaller 205/210 is better suited? Thoughts?
#53
So guys, yesterday was the first time I took the car on its longest journey like 1hr each way. It was tropical hot (95*F+ with stupid humidity) out which is why I did it to see how the car would do. And I noticed that I spend a lot of time between 1400-2400rpms lol. Mainly with a 2400 stall and 2004R I have to put it into OD which automatically locks my billet lockup converter to kee the Rpms down for 40+mph so I can limit heat buildup in the motor. With the stock cam it's fine and all is well but how would this be with the trick flow at 216/220? I would hate to loose that ability to cruis at 1200rpms in 4th at 40mph on a flat/light grade. Otherwise dropping to 3rd/drive releases the lockup and my Rpms increase and more heat.
My car doesn't run hot, temps actually are around 160-180 depending on driving and will get to 190/200 if I do a lot of hot city style driving by not getting above 40mph and keeping the Rpms up.
So do I need to go smaller on the cam if I plan to still try to do the same thing? If the 216/220 is gona feel like poo for the cruising part that kinda ruins the fun ya know. Maybe the LQ9 or a smaller 205/210 is better suited? Thoughts?
My car doesn't run hot, temps actually are around 160-180 depending on driving and will get to 190/200 if I do a lot of hot city style driving by not getting above 40mph and keeping the Rpms up.
So do I need to go smaller on the cam if I plan to still try to do the same thing? If the 216/220 is gona feel like poo for the cruising part that kinda ruins the fun ya know. Maybe the LQ9 or a smaller 205/210 is better suited? Thoughts?
~Steven
#59
Do you charge for the cam spec/recommendation? Would love to know what you think would work best in my application.
Motor:
stock 99 5.3 shortblock, lightly ported 862s, (cam of your spec), Morel 5315 lifters, either stock or moly PR (unless I can find some cheap 3/8" PRs), Just ordered the Howards beehives which have .600" max lift (I believe), stock valves/retainers, stock rockers with straub bushings, stock truck intake and TB, 72lb injectors, centrifigual Supercharger pushing 10psi at 5200rpms on stock motor and makes boost very quickly like 1700rpms.
Drivetrain:
2004R billet internals from CK performance
10" 2400 stall, Billet converter with HD lockup
Dennys 3" nitrous ready driveshaft
ford 8.8, 3.55s traclock with SVO carbon fiber clutches
Mostly stock 87 formula 350 with TA bodykit, 8pt roll bar. I would assume 3300 curb weight, 3500lb with me in it or less.
#60
Ordered the Howard springs!
Summit Racing Part Number: HRS-98113
Number of Springs Per Valve: Single
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in): 1.280 in.
Coil Bind Height (in): 1.150 in.
Damper Spring Included: No
Spring Rate (lbs/in): 412 lbs./in.
Inside Diameter of Outer Spring (in): 0.900 in.
Valve Spring Style: Beehive
Also got some Morel 5315 lifters coming from Co-speed. Figured they are only $40 more than the LS7s and hear they are much better... with larger cams, higher lifts/ramp rates and heavier valvetrains.
Gona be getting the heads soon prob.
Summit Racing Part Number: HRS-98113
Number of Springs Per Valve: Single
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in): 1.280 in.
Coil Bind Height (in): 1.150 in.
Damper Spring Included: No
Spring Rate (lbs/in): 412 lbs./in.
Inside Diameter of Outer Spring (in): 0.900 in.
Valve Spring Style: Beehive
Also got some Morel 5315 lifters coming from Co-speed. Figured they are only $40 more than the LS7s and hear they are much better... with larger cams, higher lifts/ramp rates and heavier valvetrains.
Gona be getting the heads soon prob.