5.3 Head Studs?
08-12-2016, 02:07 PM
#21
If it were ebay auctions, then that would be another story, but when you link ebay stores, like with these studs, then that's the same as linking to a non sposnor vendor and you're breaking the rules.
When I see it, I usually just remove the links and put in a link to the Non Sponsor Policy. In some cases where the person seems to be soliciting business for themselves, then further action is taken.
08-12-2016, 02:15 PM
#22
Restricted User
There are threads on this forum with huge lists of things like "commonly bought turbo items", "A-body swap parts thread", "G-body swap parts thread" that all have dozens of ebay and amazon stores linked in them, and in all 3 of them, links provided by forum moderators.
I never said I wasn't guilty, either.
I never said I wasn't guilty, either.
08-12-2016, 02:32 PM
#23
There are threads on this forum with huge lists of things like "commonly bought turbo items", "A-body swap parts thread", "G-body swap parts thread" that all have dozens of ebay and amazon stores linked in them, and in all 3 of them, links provided by forum moderators.
I never said I wasn't guilty, either.
I never said I wasn't guilty, either.
08-12-2016, 03:11 PM
#24
Restricted User
Oh and you know I can't send PMs to anyone.
08-12-2016, 07:12 PM
#25
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Since when is it against the non-sponsor policy to post link to ebay ads?
You better get ready to ban a dozen of your own forum moderators, because there are a few of you that post hundred of external links regularly. Not to mention the few thousand project logs on this website where people link all of the parts they used for swaps/builds.
You better get ready to ban a dozen of your own forum moderators, because there are a few of you that post hundred of external links regularly. Not to mention the few thousand project logs on this website where people link all of the parts they used for swaps/builds.
There are threads on this forum with huge lists of things like "commonly bought turbo items", "A-body swap parts thread", "G-body swap parts thread" that all have dozens of ebay and amazon stores linked in them, and in all 3 of them, links provided by forum moderators.
I never said I wasn't guilty, either.
I never said I wasn't guilty, either.
I'm sorry you're offended that LS1Tech wouldn't allow you to advertise your business services for free, thereby allowing you a free lunch and free profit which our sponsors have to pay for, but continued hassling of our staff won't be tolerated. It costs money to keep this site open and running, and the businesses and individuals making a profit from this site are the ones who cover such expenses. If this is a problem for you, then please find another site to spend your time on.
-Admin.
08-12-2016, 08:36 PM
#26
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I'm running them on my 6.0, not because I don't have the money for arp's, but I can't justify spending that much on them when I see so many people using the sppedmaster/pro-comps.
08-13-2016, 04:16 AM
#27
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Since February 16, 2006 when the policy was written...
If it were ebay auctions, then that would be another story, but when you link ebay stores, like with these studs, then that's the same as linking to a non sposnor vendor and you're breaking the rules.
You see me banning anybody for it?
When I see it, I usually just remove the links and put in a link to the Non Sponsor Policy. In some cases where the person seems to be soliciting business for themselves, then further action is taken.
If it were ebay auctions, then that would be another story, but when you link ebay stores, like with these studs, then that's the same as linking to a non sposnor vendor and you're breaking the rules.
You see me banning anybody for it?
When I see it, I usually just remove the links and put in a link to the Non Sponsor Policy. In some cases where the person seems to be soliciting business for themselves, then further action is taken.
08-13-2016, 08:06 AM
#28
I'm sure you're referring to the trunion upgrade, which I have yet to see Straub himself try to push. At first, it was Martin Smallwood advertising the trunion upgrades and it somewhiw evolved to Straub answering questions and speaking about concerns with install. So far, everything seems to be ok under paragraph 6 as quoted above.
Last edited by KCS; 08-13-2016 at 08:26 AM.
08-13-2016, 08:56 AM
#29
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Stud/Bolt Stretch The THOUGHT of a "slam" by the site KCS controller which is NOT correct.
This observation, "yield is the SAME for the low cost studs vs STOCK GM bolts" is correct.
A GOOD statement for someone with knowledge is made.
NOW, my problem is that the block WAS designed for a specified bolt, the GM item.
That bolt has a specified stretch amount, a value used to keep bores ROUND.
Many times I have "undercut" bolts/studs to ALLOW stretch greater than bolt yield.
THINK, "when the cylinder head "grows", the clamp distance changes AND CAN CAUSE head material loss in the clamp area causing lower torque."
Solution : Let bolts/studs "grow" at the same rate as clamped material, forces WILL remain equal.
Lance
This observation, "yield is the SAME for the low cost studs vs STOCK GM bolts" is correct.
A GOOD statement for someone with knowledge is made.
NOW, my problem is that the block WAS designed for a specified bolt, the GM item.
That bolt has a specified stretch amount, a value used to keep bores ROUND.
Many times I have "undercut" bolts/studs to ALLOW stretch greater than bolt yield.
THINK, "when the cylinder head "grows", the clamp distance changes AND CAN CAUSE head material loss in the clamp area causing lower torque."
Solution : Let bolts/studs "grow" at the same rate as clamped material, forces WILL remain equal.
Lance
Last edited by pantera_efi; 08-13-2016 at 09:02 AM.
08-13-2016, 12:22 PM
#30
Restricted User
Enough with the antics and instigation. Seriously. We won't ask again.
I'm sorry you're offended that LS1Tech wouldn't allow you to advertise your business services for free, thereby allowing you a free lunch and free profit which our sponsors have to pay for, but continued hassling of our staff won't be tolerated. It costs money to keep this site open and running, and the businesses and individuals making a profit from this site are the ones who cover such expenses. If this is a problem for you, then please find another site to spend your time on.
-Admin.
I'm sorry you're offended that LS1Tech wouldn't allow you to advertise your business services for free, thereby allowing you a free lunch and free profit which our sponsors have to pay for, but continued hassling of our staff won't be tolerated. It costs money to keep this site open and running, and the businesses and individuals making a profit from this site are the ones who cover such expenses. If this is a problem for you, then please find another site to spend your time on.
-Admin.
08-14-2016, 09:28 AM
#32
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Round Bores = Stud Yeald Hi KCS, the "slam" # 10 post of your response, "No E-bay Studs".
MANY of my customers that also SELL my products have E-Bay sales.
This is ONLY a modern retail stance.
Again, you miss my point.
I do use a Torque Plate Hone with LS Engines.
I do "heat" the block with the plates in place.
WHAT is stated is that when the block is at operating temperature, the bolt/stud should "grow" at the same rate as the expansion of the clamped area keeping the clamp pressure the same.
This method WILL keep the bores round AFTER the Plates are removed from the block.
This art I learned from Mike Costin over 40 years ago.
Lance
MANY of my customers that also SELL my products have E-Bay sales.
This is ONLY a modern retail stance.
Again, you miss my point.
I do use a Torque Plate Hone with LS Engines.
I do "heat" the block with the plates in place.
WHAT is stated is that when the block is at operating temperature, the bolt/stud should "grow" at the same rate as the expansion of the clamped area keeping the clamp pressure the same.
This method WILL keep the bores round AFTER the Plates are removed from the block.
This art I learned from Mike Costin over 40 years ago.
Lance
08-14-2016, 10:02 AM
#33
Again, you miss my point.
I do use a Torque Plate Hone with LS Engines.
I do "heat" the block with the plates in place.
WHAT is stated is that when the block is at operating temperature, the bolt/stud should "grow" at the same rate as the expansion of the clamped area keeping the clamp pressure the same.
This method WILL keep the bores round AFTER the Plates are removed from the block.
This art I learned from Mike Costin over 40 years ago.
Lance
I do use a Torque Plate Hone with LS Engines.
I do "heat" the block with the plates in place.
WHAT is stated is that when the block is at operating temperature, the bolt/stud should "grow" at the same rate as the expansion of the clamped area keeping the clamp pressure the same.
This method WILL keep the bores round AFTER the Plates are removed from the block.
This art I learned from Mike Costin over 40 years ago.
Lance
08-15-2016, 09:43 AM
#34
If this is a NA build I can't see the need for a $300+ aftermarket fasteners. Even on most mild turbo builds, they aren't necessary. Factory head bolts and an LS9 gasket will handle 800+ at the crank with no sealing issues.
A stud is a better design by nature and provides better clamping, so I can see the appeal. If the China studs are as strong as the OEM head bolt, are a better design, and are easier on the threads in the block... I don't see what the draw back is.
I've used both ARP and the China Studs without issue at 26+lbs of boost making over 900 at the crank. That's a factory JY bottom end, no machine work. Others have done more...
A stud is a better design by nature and provides better clamping, so I can see the appeal. If the China studs are as strong as the OEM head bolt, are a better design, and are easier on the threads in the block... I don't see what the draw back is.
I've used both ARP and the China Studs without issue at 26+lbs of boost making over 900 at the crank. That's a factory JY bottom end, no machine work. Others have done more...
08-15-2016, 12:06 PM
#35
If this is a NA build I can't see the need for a $300+ aftermarket fasteners. Even on most mild turbo builds, they aren't necessary. Factory head bolts and an LS9 gasket will handle 800+ at the crank with no sealing issues.
A stud is a better design by nature and provides better clamping, so I can see the appeal. If the China studs are as strong as the OEM head bolt, are a better design, and are easier on the threads in the block... I don't see what the draw back is.
I've used both ARP and the China Studs without issue at 26+lbs of boost making over 900 at the crank. That's a factory JY bottom end, no machine work. Others have done more...
A stud is a better design by nature and provides better clamping, so I can see the appeal. If the China studs are as strong as the OEM head bolt, are a better design, and are easier on the threads in the block... I don't see what the draw back is.
I've used both ARP and the China Studs without issue at 26+lbs of boost making over 900 at the crank. That's a factory JY bottom end, no machine work. Others have done more...
08-15-2016, 07:39 PM
#36
A company like ARP spends a lot of time and money inspecting it's products to make sure the quality is consistent. ProComp doesn't. The prices of each company's products reflects that. It's the end user's decision as to whether it's worth it or not.
Me personally, I spend a lot of time in manufacturing facilities specifically as it relates to threaded products for the oil & gas industry. I see all the quality controls a company goes through to make sure the mechanical properties of a metal are consistent and the thread dimensions are accurate.
For example, the tensile and yield strength of a steel can change drastically with small, easily overlooked changes in the heat treat. As it relates to fasteners, if a batch of bolts were sold with varying yield and tensile properties, the same torque value could result in different clamping loads for each bolt.
So again, as a matter of personal preference, I would rather buy a set of $120 ARP bolts for my engine than to play roulette with an $80 set of ProComp studs.
08-16-2016, 01:17 PM
#38
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08-16-2016, 01:42 PM
#39
Also just to stir the pot...
Denmah reuses the OEM TTY head bolts on all his turbo builds. Many making over 700whp. I've never seen one of his engines have head sealing/clamping issues at these power levels. (Can look up Sloppy Mechanics youtube channel to see his many builds if you aren't familiar)
IMO head bolts/studs aren't a weak point you need to worry until you're north of 700 crank hp.
