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5.3 Head Studs?

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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 03:07 PM
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Default 5.3 Head Studs?

Any decent head studs to be had on the cheap? Have a 5.3 that I'm cleaning up and doing head gaskets on, would like to use studs when I put it back together.
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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 06:44 PM
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Ebay head studs are around 100 bucks.

ARP head bolts aren't much more.
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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
Ebay head studs are around 100 bucks.

ARP head bolts aren't much more.
Ive looked on Ebay - can find them, can you point me in the right direction?
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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 07:43 PM
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Go to ebay type in 5.3 head studs bam!
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
Ebay head studs are around 100 bucks.

ARP head bolts aren't much more.
Maybe I'm just looking for the wrong part number, but I can't find arp's for anywhere near $100. Best I can find is in the $325-$400 range.

If you would share a link or a part number to the cheaper ARP's, that would be awesome!!
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 08:35 AM
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Jeg's sells the China studs also, Speedmaster is the brand.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by MaroonMonsterLS1
Maybe I'm just looking for the wrong part number, but I can't find arp's for anywhere near $100. Best I can find is in the $325-$400 range.

If you would share a link or a part number to the cheaper ARP's, that would be awesome!!
Are you looking at head bolts or head studs? The head bolts are a little over $100 for the '04 up head bolt kits. The pre '04 kits are about $200 but still more affordable than the head studs.

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-784-ar...04-blocks.aspx

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-131-ar...04-blocks.aspx
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 09:24 AM
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Was looking for studs. I thought that's what his post implied, sorry.

So, the question becomes: ARP Bolts or China Studs?
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 10:14 AM
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Default China Head Std's = OK

Hi all, I sell, stock, install the studs I buy from Speedmaster.

I use this item to SAVE the GM block from head bolt thread loss.
The use of a bolt, only a few times, WILL damage the block.
This is the method GM used to engineer the block "one assembly of the engine IS to last for the life of the car".

The torque I recommend IS 75-80.lbs, the last bolts I TORQUE are the two center ones @ 80.lbs.

NEVER had a problem using these Speedmaster/Pro-Comp studs.

Lance
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by MaroonMonsterLS1
Was looking for studs. I thought that's what his post implied, sorry.

So, the question becomes: ARP Bolts or China Studs?
TSP had some tensile tests done a while back and posted the results. IIRC, the Ebay studs and GM bolts had almost the same tensile strengths, and the ARP material was much higher tensile strength.

Personally, I would never use the ebay studs.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 10:42 AM
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Run the eBay studs. PLENTY of guys have used them without issue, and plenty have ran them over 20psi on FI vehicles. I can't justify 300 bucks for studs anymore.

Speedmaster / Pro-Comp Studs, whoever, is what's going on my LS7.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by KCS
TSP had some tensile tests done a while back and posted the results. IIRC, the Ebay studs and GM bolts had almost the same tensile strengths, and the ARP material was much higher tensile strength.

Personally, I would never use the ebay studs.
Just because you would never use them, doesn't mean others cant and remove the links i provided... shame on you.. and if you don't like that i am here to help people.. banned me.. shame on you

Here ya go again..

Non-Sponsor Soliciting Policy

"1. We do NOT allow pricing or any form of contact information to be posted for non-sponsoring vendors. This includes email address, website, physical address, phone number, etc.. We also do not allow members to reply with "

Last edited by KCS; Aug 12, 2016 at 01:54 PM.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 11:55 AM
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Thats no good KCS.. not only did you delete the links twice i provided, you deleted my whole post @10pm not 2h after OPs last question, in regards to helping someone who asked for help because they searched ebay but couldn't find them. KCS your not here to truly help those who need help.. but to help line pockets.. Shame on you .. ill gotten gains .. Repent KCS Repent !

Last edited by the404man; Aug 12, 2016 at 05:11 PM. Reason: edited in the time of the my post that was deleted by KCS @10pm 8-11-16
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by the404man
Just because you would never use them, doesn't mean others cant and remove the links i provided... shame on you.. and if you don't like that i am here to help people.. banned me.. shame on you

Here ya go again..

Non-Sponsor Soliciting Policy

"1. We do NOT allow pricing or any form of contact information to be posted for non-sponsoring vendors. This includes email address, website, physical address, phone number, etc.. We also do not allow members to reply with "
Shame on me? LMFAO. I removed the links because it's in violation of policies here on LS1tech. As a Moderator, it's kind of my responsibility to enforce those policies. It has nothing to do with whether or not I would use them. There wouldn't be a problem if you posted a link to a paying sponsor that sold those ebay studs.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 12:11 PM
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I am always worried if I swap from head bolts to head studs on an engine, it would need to be bored with a deck plate first. Else the cylinder wall will distort and the engine will pass more oil (blow by).

Has anybody actually tested the difference (bored w/ deck plate vs without one)?
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 12:39 PM
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Thanks everyone!!
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by kingtal0n
I am always worried if I swap from head bolts to head studs on an engine, it would need to be bored with a deck plate first. Else the cylinder wall will distort and the engine will pass more oil (blow by).

Has anybody actually tested the difference (bored w/ deck plate vs without one)?
Valid concern I think. Most of the LS engines are not torque plate honed, so they're not very round or straight to begin with. However, after you put miles on the engine and the walls wear in, going to a different fastener may change the shape of the bore and reduce ring seal. At least I think that's a possibility.

As far as if a torque plate changes the bore, that is a definite yes. Especially with aluminum blocks.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 01:27 PM
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If it's an aluminum block, stick with new head bolts. Studs will change even a stock engine enough that you'll have a good chance of having a catastrophic failure. My machine shop uses a Tq plate on every engine and they are very adamant when they ask you bolts or studs. Even with the Main caps.


Read my sig
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by KCS
Shame on me? LMFAO. I removed the links because it's in violation of policies here on LS1tech. As a Moderator, it's kind of my responsibility to enforce those policies. It has nothing to do with whether or not I would use them. There wouldn't be a problem if you posted a link to a paying sponsor that sold those ebay studs.
Since when is it against the non-sponsor policy to post link to ebay ads?

You better get ready to ban a dozen of your own forum moderators, because there are a few of you that post hundred of external links regularly. Not to mention the few thousand project logs on this website where people link all of the parts they used for swaps/builds.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 01:45 PM
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FYI, I use Alper Motorsports Chinese studs (posting a name isn't against the rules) at 30 PSI on an aluminum block. Haven't pushed any water. They're basically Speedmaster studs that Summit/Jegs sell.

Bryson used them at 40 PSI on an aluminum block and ran 4.86 without pushing any water.

Take the caution of the people who haven't used them with a grain of salt.
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