5.3 Head Studs?
No worries. To add, I think ARP bolts are easier to install as set tq values are easier then degrees when working in a cramped engine bay. Granted I think your Denmah reference to reusing stock bolts is just 3rd setting on impact gun, haha.
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
Stock 5.3 rotating assembly, filled aluminum L33 block, 799 heads. Chinese studs.
4.83 1/8th mile with the car shutting off at 4.18 into the run.
Best 1/8th mile trap was ~151.
Almost 100 passes before the engine let go. Head studs were not to blame.
4.83 1/8th mile with the car shutting off at 4.18 into the run.
Best 1/8th mile trap was ~151.
Almost 100 passes before the engine let go. Head studs were not to blame.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Agree completely on setting torque values with ARP vs using a torque angle gauge with the TTY.
Stock 5.3 rotating assembly, filled aluminum L33 block, 799 heads. Chinese studs.
4.83 1/8th mile with the car shutting off at 4.18 into the run.
Best 1/8th mile trap was ~151.
Almost 100 passes before the engine let go. Head studs were not to blame.
SGMP No Mercy 5. Stock bottom end 5.3. 4.83 - YouTube
4.83 1/8th mile with the car shutting off at 4.18 into the run.
Best 1/8th mile trap was ~151.
Almost 100 passes before the engine let go. Head studs were not to blame.
SGMP No Mercy 5. Stock bottom end 5.3. 4.83 - YouTube
To be fair, I don’t think a filled head/block is a fair comparison. I’d think that would make the head/engine deck surfaces a lot more rigid, flexing less and sealing better. Methanol engines in a league of their own as well IMO. Lots of non-dedicated race cars have gone “fast” on china studs without filled heads/blocks. Several have had new china studs snap during the torque process as well. (I’ve had ARP studs snap too) I’m all for whatever works on a budget… but that philosophy has bit me many times as well.
Anyone have proof of an OEM head bolt failing? IE, lifting the head on normal cyl. pressure alone, not detonation? Or anyone with proof that the ARP bolt is any more effective at holding the head down than an OEM fastener…even a used one? I’ve seen 25lbs on a SBE 6.0 running methanol on factory head bolts with no signs of the head lifting going 130 in the 1/8th. I’ve also seen guys detonate and blow the gaskets out on 12lbs with ARP studs.
Point being I can’t see most NA builds needing anything more than OEM bolts. Even reused ones… But if budget isn’t a concern, no reason not to go with the best you can afford.
Anyone have proof of an OEM head bolt failing? IE, lifting the head on normal cyl. pressure alone, not detonation? Or anyone with proof that the ARP bolt is any more effective at holding the head down than an OEM fastener…even a used one? I’ve seen 25lbs on a SBE 6.0 running methanol on factory head bolts with no signs of the head lifting going 130 in the 1/8th. I’ve also seen guys detonate and blow the gaskets out on 12lbs with ARP studs.
Point being I can’t see most NA builds needing anything more than OEM bolts. Even reused ones… But if budget isn’t a concern, no reason not to go with the best you can afford.
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
His block wasn't a full fill. There wasn't any increase in strength happening at the top of the cylinders. I'm pretty sure he's still using a water pump and everything, so it had to be a quarter fill.
I reuse OEM head bolts on all of my N/A builds. I don't see any point in wasting money. A buddy of mine threw a fit and used the new ARP head bolts I had sitting on a shelf on our last swap. I'm not too happy about that one.
I reuse OEM head bolts on all of my N/A builds. I don't see any point in wasting money. A buddy of mine threw a fit and used the new ARP head bolts I had sitting on a shelf on our last swap. I'm not too happy about that one.
His block wasn't a full fill. There wasn't any increase in strength happening at the top of the cylinders. I'm pretty sure he's still using a water pump and everything, so it had to be a quarter fill.
I reuse OEM head bolts on all of my N/A builds. I don't see any point in wasting money. A buddy of mine threw a fit and used the new ARP head bolts I had sitting on a shelf on our last swap. I'm not too happy about that one.
I reuse OEM head bolts on all of my N/A builds. I don't see any point in wasting money. A buddy of mine threw a fit and used the new ARP head bolts I had sitting on a shelf on our last swap. I'm not too happy about that one.
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