Is it as easy as just putting in new rod bolts??
i think if you were to remove all other factors such as detonation and oil starvation (clearly the guy spinning to 8100 has done just that) you'd eventually find some other weak link.
would it be the stock rod bolts? maybe. but I haven't actually seen a lot of spun bearings that weren't rattled out due to detonation first.
actually now that I think of it, every time I see a spun rod bearing in an LS in person it always has signs of detonation in that cylinder.
would it be the stock rod bolts? maybe. but I haven't actually seen a lot of spun bearings that weren't rattled out due to detonation first.
actually now that I think of it, every time I see a spun rod bearing in an LS in person it always has signs of detonation in that cylinder.
There are a dozen other things that become a problem before you hit the RPM needed to trash a rod bolt. Now 97-98 rod bolts are a different story.
Detonation is a major rod bolt killer at high RPM because you end up with normal forces plus varying load and vibration. So you could be close to the RPM limit but still safe, and trash a bolt because of a crap tune. Again though, the rod or piston is likely to go first.
Rod bolt failures in LS engines aren't nearly as common as most other setups. You can go in the forced induction section and read a over 1 million HP worth of builds before you even hear a story of a problem caused by a stock rod bolt.
You're much likely to find where someone spun a rod bearing after putting ARP rod bolts in their stock rods.
Detonation is a major rod bolt killer at high RPM because you end up with normal forces plus varying load and vibration. So you could be close to the RPM limit but still safe, and trash a bolt because of a crap tune. Again though, the rod or piston is likely to go first.
Rod bolt failures in LS engines aren't nearly as common as most other setups. You can go in the forced induction section and read a over 1 million HP worth of builds before you even hear a story of a problem caused by a stock rod bolt.
You're much likely to find where someone spun a rod bearing after putting ARP rod bolts in their stock rods.
OK guys, I'll build my next one with stock bolts. Jeep build v3 should be spinning about 7200-7500RPM with about 10.4:1 and very light boost. Either of you want to put up your credit card # in case a rod bolt snaps?
Sure, the lighter the slug the better. But look at Stock48’s 6.0 SBE build he won drag week with. He was routinely revving to 7200 or so, even the 6.0’s appear not to have issues with a little RPM. I’ve NEVER seen rod bolt failure on a boosted LS. I’m not being cocky or saying it hasn’t’ happened, but show us an example… I honestly can’t find one. I’ve broken a few and the rods bend and/or the ring lands give. Usually from pushing the engines to hard at low rpm. I literally had the big end of the rod alone still spinning freely on the crank. Rod bolts held just fine.
Not the best picture, but that’s the big end of the rod down that hole holding on strong!


I’ve been trying to limit rpm coming from the old turbo Buick scene, thru the traps at 160 around 6200 rpm. Obviously I’m doing it wrong! Throw in a big cam and aftermarket intake so you make diddly for power under 5k. Then pour on the boost and rev it to the moon!
Seems to keep those rods alive anyway.
While I don’t honestly believe anything turning 8k routinely can be considered “reliable”. The results below IMO clearly prove the average guy building a basic boosted setup shouldn’t waste his time with aftermarket fasteners. (maybe keep it down around 6800-7k
).
Here is the example I was talking about...
Kissing 8300rpm rev limiter for a full season and trapping 173mph @ 3000lbs. Also has a tear down at the end of the season showing what I consider VERY healthy bearings all around. Pretty nuts… He is also doing this with unmodified OEM valves, OEM HYD lifters, OEM rockers. (has a trunnion upgrade) How that valve train is stable with those parts is beyond me. Must be a magic lobe on the BEI cam!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ill-going.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...3-bei-cam.html
Not the best picture, but that’s the big end of the rod down that hole holding on strong!


I’ve been trying to limit rpm coming from the old turbo Buick scene, thru the traps at 160 around 6200 rpm. Obviously I’m doing it wrong! Throw in a big cam and aftermarket intake so you make diddly for power under 5k. Then pour on the boost and rev it to the moon!
While I don’t honestly believe anything turning 8k routinely can be considered “reliable”. The results below IMO clearly prove the average guy building a basic boosted setup shouldn’t waste his time with aftermarket fasteners. (maybe keep it down around 6800-7k
). Here is the example I was talking about...
Kissing 8300rpm rev limiter for a full season and trapping 173mph @ 3000lbs. Also has a tear down at the end of the season showing what I consider VERY healthy bearings all around. Pretty nuts… He is also doing this with unmodified OEM valves, OEM HYD lifters, OEM rockers. (has a trunnion upgrade) How that valve train is stable with those parts is beyond me. Must be a magic lobe on the BEI cam!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ill-going.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...3-bei-cam.html
Same here. When I trashed the LQ9 in my procharged SSS I destroyed 2 rods and bent 2 others. None of the rod bolts let go and the two rods that broke still spun freely on the crank.








