Finally pulling the trigger! Thoughts? *Updated with some pics
I agree, i went with 3.73's with my m6 cuz i liked the pull of 3.42 but did not like the 4.10 shifting. I Really like my 3.73's it stoutened up the gear a lot and seems like i don't have to rely on slamming gears like 4.10's. i think with my cam set up as well being a nice tourqy cam that revs a lil bit past 6500. Cant wait to get it going!
Ha Ha where did this go, we all know low gears help an engine get into it's power band quicker, my original comment was 4 10's killed THAT race in post #11.
Listen to it , he downshifts, car is already in it's power band with not much more rpm to go,
as race starts to progress tan colored camaro gets out run because he's already out of
rpm. 4 10's and top speed don't go together.
Listen to it , he downshifts, car is already in it's power band with not much more rpm to go,
as race starts to progress tan colored camaro gets out run because he's already out of
rpm. 4 10's and top speed don't go together.
Absolutely correct! Not sure why some people don't get this lol
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this ^
Imagine you had a fully on-the-fly gearing. You could have any gear you wanted, any time you wanted it. What do you think the best advantage would be, from starting with a low number (2.53:1) and working to a higher numbers (4.11+)? OF course not. You would want the higher numbers first, then move to lower numbers... as you run out of engine rpm in each trans gear the diff would compensate to keep the trans from shifting until it absolutely had to. We would no longer need "low end torque" because the gear could shoot to 6:1 from a dead stop to get the engine rpm up quickly and drop down once it was.
Since that is just an imaginary situation; real gears are generally stuck at some number, so with the above in mind, how do you choose a gear? Is it, to ensure that the maximum speed requirements of the combination are met for the application? Yes I think so. Make sure you can hit full speed (your target MPH here) and then adjust the gear as numerically high (advantageous) as possible while still falling into that range of top speeds.
Imagine you had a fully on-the-fly gearing. You could have any gear you wanted, any time you wanted it. What do you think the best advantage would be, from starting with a low number (2.53:1) and working to a higher numbers (4.11+)? OF course not. You would want the higher numbers first, then move to lower numbers... as you run out of engine rpm in each trans gear the diff would compensate to keep the trans from shifting until it absolutely had to. We would no longer need "low end torque" because the gear could shoot to 6:1 from a dead stop to get the engine rpm up quickly and drop down once it was.
Since that is just an imaginary situation; real gears are generally stuck at some number, so with the above in mind, how do you choose a gear? Is it, to ensure that the maximum speed requirements of the combination are met for the application? Yes I think so. Make sure you can hit full speed (your target MPH here) and then adjust the gear as numerically high (advantageous) as possible while still falling into that range of top speeds.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
I've been following this thread since i just swapped in some TMS 243s on a recent rebuild. I'll have the car street tuned on Monday, but it'll be a bit before I get it on a Dyno.
Now all this talk has me wondering about my gears ... 4.10s and a steel flywheel, but I also have 1000 lbs more to move!
Now all this talk has me wondering about my gears ... 4.10s and a steel flywheel, but I also have 1000 lbs more to move!
I've been following this thread since i just swapped in some TMS 243s on a recent rebuild. I'll have the car street tuned on Monday, but it'll be a bit before I get it on a Dyno.
Now all this talk has me wondering about my gears ... 4.10s and a steel flywheel, but I also have 1000 lbs more to move!
Now all this talk has me wondering about my gears ... 4.10s and a steel flywheel, but I also have 1000 lbs more to move!
11 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,541
Likes: 15
From: South Florida
Guys, different rear end gears does not change the rpm drop through gears. Check the calcs again.
I think we all should have a good grasp on rear gears. The thing about going too crazy with gears, to me, is running out of steam too early. I've seen several cars at the strip that have to shift into 5th, or OD, before the end. As we all know it comes down to combo & what you want from your car. I know my car isn't the best at the strip but it does do some strong pulls at speed. My car pulls to 150 in 4th.
I think we all should have a good grasp on rear gears. The thing about going too crazy with gears, to me, is running out of steam too early. I've seen several cars at the strip that have to shift into 5th, or OD, before the end. As we all know it comes down to combo & what you want from your car. I know my car isn't the best at the strip but it does do some strong pulls at speed. My car pulls to 150 in 4th.
I've been following this thread since i just swapped in some TMS 243s on a recent rebuild. I'll have the car street tuned on Monday, but it'll be a bit before I get it on a Dyno.
Now all this talk has me wondering about my gears ... 4.10s and a steel flywheel, but I also have 1000 lbs more to move!
Now all this talk has me wondering about my gears ... 4.10s and a steel flywheel, but I also have 1000 lbs more to move!
Thanks! Im not to sure lol, a car that doesn't rev to the moon which is why i picked the cam i did, yet turn great track numbers/trap and add a nice decent head to it.. Something that will out perform the average h/c ls1/6 and be close to a pretty solid built ls1/6 if that makes sense.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
I couldn't get a real feel for Heads/cam during break in as I was still on a base tune, stock LS6 injectors, and kept RPMs under 4500.
I dropped it off at Spartan LSX so they are gonna drop the Bosch 42# injectors in and get it tuned.
Don't forget to seal those rocker tray bolts when the heads are going on!
Last edited by 04HarleyF250; Sep 27, 2016 at 09:49 PM.
232/236 .625/.625 112+4 - seems pretty similar to the Tick V2 stage 2 if that's what you are running. I was looking for a good bump, but still solid mid range to get this heavy Impala going. I should be a bit over 11:1 compression which I think should work well with the cam.
I couldn't get a real feel for Heads/cam during break in as I was still on a base tune, stock LS6 injectors, and kept RPMs under 4500.
I dropped it off at Spartan LSX so they are gonna drop the Bosch 42# injectors in and get it tuned.
Don't forget to seal those rocker tray bolts when the heads are going on!
I couldn't get a real feel for Heads/cam during break in as I was still on a base tune, stock LS6 injectors, and kept RPMs under 4500.
I dropped it off at Spartan LSX so they are gonna drop the Bosch 42# injectors in and get it tuned.
Don't forget to seal those rocker tray bolts when the heads are going on!
