LS1 Intake & Exhaust Valves
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 4
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From: By the Bay, CA
LS1 Intake & Exhaust Valves 2001 LS1, w/ approx 90k
Recently noticed james bond-esque smokescreeen on high rpm decel, and after C&L was performed things are pointing towards the exhaust valves. I figure while I'm in there, I'll do the intake valves too.
Is there anything else recommended to do while I'm in there? Preventative maintenance as well as performance/upgrade.
Also if there is a recommended brand to purchase feel free to chime in with that.
Thanks
Recently noticed james bond-esque smokescreeen on high rpm decel, and after C&L was performed things are pointing towards the exhaust valves. I figure while I'm in there, I'll do the intake valves too.
Is there anything else recommended to do while I'm in there? Preventative maintenance as well as performance/upgrade.
Also if there is a recommended brand to purchase feel free to chime in with that.
Thanks
Do you mean a valve job and guides? Assuming you have 853/241 heads, you are going to take heads worth $100-$150 and spend a couple-few hundred on them if you get them done right. I advise you to get a clean set of 243 heads. Prices is around $400-$450 for a nice set, they directly bolt on, increase your compression just a tad, and flow about 20% more.
Hint: same head design that came on the Z06 in your same year. Those heads, along with the LS6 cam, resulted in your same basic short block making a lot more power.
If you just want the answer to your question, Manley makes great valves but you'd still need a valve job to make sure things seal up to the existing/factory/older valve seats in the heads.
Hint: same head design that came on the Z06 in your same year. Those heads, along with the LS6 cam, resulted in your same basic short block making a lot more power.
If you just want the answer to your question, Manley makes great valves but you'd still need a valve job to make sure things seal up to the existing/factory/older valve seats in the heads.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: By the Bay, CA
Appreciate the reply!
Honestly I'm not sure. Limited research pointed me in the direction of bad exhaust seals when getting white smoke on high RPM decel, which I assumed the seals could be done independently from the valves themselves. Am I assuming incorrectly?
I also figured since I had the valve covers off, I'd do the intake seals as well as a preventative measure.
Correct, stock heads. Non-stock (bigger) cam w/ unknown specs installed by PO. Will that negatively affect changing to the 243s you suggested? And sourcing used, not new correct?
Understood.
Again as mentioned earlier, if I can easily just replace the seals and be done without hurting anything, that is my preference. If not, and I'm already investing the time/money into a complete valve job, then it also makes sense to upgrade the heads while in there.
Do you mean a valve job and guides?
I also figured since I had the valve covers off, I'd do the intake seals as well as a preventative measure.
Assuming you have 853/241 heads, you are going to take heads worth $100-$150 and spend a couple-few hundred on them if you get them done right. I advise you to get a clean set of 243 heads. Prices is around $400-$450 for a nice set, they directly bolt on, increase your compression just a tad, and flow about 20% more.
Hint: same head design that came on the Z06 in your same year. Those heads, along with the LS6 cam, resulted in your same basic short block making a lot more power.
If you just want the answer to your question, Manley makes great valves but you'd still need a valve job to make sure things seal up to the existing/factory/older valve seats in the heads.
It very well could be just the seals, and they are cheap. Hit up Cam Motion or Brian Tooley Racing and you shouldn't be out more than $20 or so. You do need to find out what style of valve springs you have so you know what style of seals - stock or beehive psrings are usually the "hat" style stock seal, whereas more aggressive spring sets will usually use the smaller seals without the integrated spring seat.
Stock type:
http://www.briantooleyracing.com/ls-...hat-style.html
Aftermarket style:
http://www.briantooleyracing.com/ls-valve-seal-kit.html
The 243 heads are not some radically different design; they are functionally similar to a LS1 head in every way save for a slightly smaller chamber and better-flowing ports. Any cam that worked well for a LS1 head will likely work even better with a LS6/2(243) head. These also came on trucks as 799 castings. Same thing.
See here for the tool you really must get to make sure you don't jack up your new seals(and pull off the little springs before install!):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...eal-depth.html
Stock type:
http://www.briantooleyracing.com/ls-...hat-style.html
Aftermarket style:
http://www.briantooleyracing.com/ls-valve-seal-kit.html
The 243 heads are not some radically different design; they are functionally similar to a LS1 head in every way save for a slightly smaller chamber and better-flowing ports. Any cam that worked well for a LS1 head will likely work even better with a LS6/2(243) head. These also came on trucks as 799 castings. Same thing.
See here for the tool you really must get to make sure you don't jack up your new seals(and pull off the little springs before install!):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...eal-depth.html
