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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 09:29 AM
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Default Milk chocolate colored oil

Last night I drained the oil on an LQ4 that hasn't been started in a couple years and it came out looking like milk chocolate. I went back to look at the drain pan this morning and the oil has gotten darker. Is that indication that it could have just been built up condensation in the engine or does it still mean I had coolant mixed with the oil? I'm removing the heads later after work, but wanted to see if anyone knew if it could just be condensation. I'm hoping the block or heads aren't cracked.

I was told when I picked the engine up on Friday that the engine is running low on compression on a few cylinders if that helps.
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 09:57 AM
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Lighter colored oil is never a good thing. Usually it means the coolant and oil have mixed. You may need to investigate further.
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 10:03 AM
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Damn. I'm pulling the heads tonight and will be getting under the pan this week sometime. I'm hoping the engine wasn't run too long while losing coolant and the block isn't cracked. The 317s I don't really care if they are cracked since I'm going with 243s anyways. Thanks!
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Elko_KB
Damn. I'm pulling the heads tonight and will be getting under the pan this week sometime. I'm hoping the engine wasn't run too long while losing coolant and the block isn't cracked. The 317s I don't really care if they are cracked since I'm going with 243s anyways. Thanks!
That's the smart thing to do. Thoroughly inspect everything. That's the best thing you can do.
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
That's the smart thing to do. Thoroughly inspect everything. That's the best thing you can do.
Yeah definitely. I'm doing a full rebuild anyways so no biggie. Just worried the block is cracked. I'm only in the full engine $600, so can make some money back at least if I have to start over.
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 01:20 PM
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you could do a leakdown test on it before removing heads. will give you good info on shape
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by farmington
you could do a leakdown test on it before removing heads. will give you good info on shape
Thanks, but since I don't have the leakdown kit, I just removed the heads.

Waiting on moderator to approve post with picture of head removed atm.

Last edited by Elko_KB; Oct 11, 2016 at 07:23 PM.
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 08:37 PM
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After removing the passenger side head, I found a pool of liquid sitting on top of one of the pistons. The head gasket came off with the head as well(the driver's side head gasket stayed on the block and no liquid was pooled on top of any pistons. After vacuuming out the liquid (don't know if it's coolant or water with rust), I was able to freely turn over the crank using the crank bolt.

Based off that, does anyone know what caused this? Would that be normal for a blown head gasket or could it be the engine was hydro-locked?

Last edited by Elko_KB; Oct 12, 2016 at 10:23 AM.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 10:25 AM
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Bump. Picture finally uploaded. Anyone know based on that picture if I'm completely screwed or if a complete rebuild should suffice?
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 10:35 AM
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I would just disassemble it and inspect the pistons, rods, bearings, block, etc. No way to really tell what kind of damage (if any) has been done without a complete disassembly.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
I would just disassemble it and inspect the pistons, rods, bearings, block, etc. No way to really tell what kind of damage (if any) has been done without a complete disassembly.
Ok, figured I was jumping the gun on conclusions. This is my first build so I wasn't sure. I just have to get the damn crank bolt off now so I can pull the dampener and flexplate and rotate the engine.

Thanks again for the advice.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 12:34 AM
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As mentioned at this point you need to disassemble to check condition.

It's likely the rings are stuck from moisture and sitting so long.

If I had to guess, Judging by the rust an build up in the cooling passages, I would say the previous owner didn't take care of the cooling system it likely ate the gasket and over heated it Thus causing the issue you see.

You may be able to re-ring, hone the block and replace the bearings if there is no pitting and get it back into running order.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
As mentioned at this point you need to disassemble to check condition.

It's likely the rings are stuck from moisture and sitting so long.

If I had to guess, Judging by the rust an build up in the cooling passages, I would say the previous owner didn't take care of the cooling system it likely ate the gasket and over heated it Thus causing the issue you see.

You may be able to re-ring, hone the block and replace the bearings if there is no pitting and get it back into running order.
Thanks for the info. I should be completing disassembly this weekend to check the RA and block. It would be great if it didn't need an overbore and I could reuse the stock pistons/rods minus rings/rod bolts/bearings. I don't feel any ridges in the cylinder walls, but my fingers are crossed the previous owner didn't run the crap out of the engine with overheating issues enough to crack the block.
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