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Tore my intake out last night and started prepping for my change.. the pcv hoses and map vacuum lines make it a pain pulling that intake out.. have you guys found an easy to to deal with those when you re-install other than turning it sideways to see it better? I removed my AIR system so i can block off the small line going to the MAP.. I found a crack in the valve cover vent line also so i may need to replace that.
The bonus is i didnt break the oil sender.. so thats a first! Going to start tearing the front half apart tonight maybe.. all my other parts came in, just need a fast 92/92!
Did you disconnect them from the Y-pipe? I have been able to get all but the back lower drivers side head bolt undone with them still connected. I think I can get the back one out but I broke my deep well socket and needed to get a new one.
So a quick recap about the build I'm putting together. It's a 227/235 .620/.610 cam which I was told clears on stock applications. I sent a set of 241 heads to have the 219hcr package done on them. BTR springs, Morel drop ins, stock MLS head gaskets, straub bushings, and push rods came out to 7.325". I was torquing down the rockers one at a time today and ran into some trouble. This is my first time ever putting together an engine so I have ran into some speed bumps along the way.
The problem is when I was bolting down the rockers I was doing them one at a time. I would spin the motor over by hand until the push rod cam down to the base circle and then i would torque that one down and move on to the next. Well I got to the 4th from the last rocker and I was turning the motor over by hand and it got very difficult to turn so I stopped (plugs are not in). I got up above the car and noticed two exhaust valves open. Said OK and went under the car and spun it in the opposite direction and it got very difficult again. When I cam up above the car this time two other exhaust valves were open.
Should the motor become tough to turn over by hand or does this sound like a valve contacting a piston? I did not measure my PTV clearance as I thought the cam wasn't that huge and others have also thrown it right in.
To me, that sounds like piston to valve contact. And I think it is time to fly-cut your pistons.
Anything over .620" is a pretty big cam. I don't think the stock rockers even maintain proper geometry much past that point. So it doesn't surprise that there may be PTV issues with the 219HCR heads.
Don't worry and don't force anything. Just clay the pistons and measure/check PTV clearance. Fly-cut as necessary.
I thought duration effected ptv clearance? Not lift?
yes you are correct. I tend to also look at overlap, since that tells you how much of that duration is at/near TDC. What higher lift does sometimes indicate is faster ramp rates, but I only look at it when I'm already feeling dicey about the overlap
How easily should it roll over? I had the wife come out and tell me exactly what the valves were doing while I was under the car. Idk if I put a little more a$$ behind turning it over or what but I turned it a whole two revolutions. I am on my back with it right above my face so I wasn't giving it the all by no means.
Without plugs in should it feel no resistance or are there moments where you will feel slight resistance ?
Even with plugs out I feel resistance rotating the motor by hand, not enough to need a cheater bar, but gotta push some yes. It's. It constant resistance. There are easy spots and harder spots
Ok I just had another thought...would I feel quite a bit of resistance rolling the engine over and pushing a lifter into its tray(no rod or rocker on that valve yet)? I was only turning it over with like a 10" ratchet.
The lifter thought came to me because once I went back to it after a break and got over that tough spot the engine spun over a few times no problem.
I wouldnt think you'd have PTV issues unless you were milled quite a bit on the heads and running thinner gaskets.. i had martin spec me a 230/236 .620/.603 for my AI heads at 63.5-64cc (milled .005) and he recommended .040 gaskets and was confident it would clear, but i plan on checking to be sure.
Someone correct me if im wrong but he should clear with this size cam..
Sorry I haven't been keeping you guys updated. All that is left is to slide the long tubes in, top off the fluids, and give everything a good once over to make sure I didn't miss anything. I'm out of town for a few days but plan on firing it up for the first time on Monday. I'll take a video and if all goes well I'll post it up Monday night.
Sounds great! glad it worked out. I was thinking there shouldn't be any PTV since he welds chambers, prolly could have even gone with a .040 gasket. When is she going on the dyno?
Pry closer to March. Still have to swap the fuel pump and put new axles in. Pry gonna take a break from it for a few weeks.
Good work! Sounds awesome and its running smooth for not being tuned! Sure is a choppy cam lol. Im going the same route on mine.. going to get it running then do the pump and hotwire kit.. figured it would make troubleshooting easier if something weird was going on.
Update: Finished up the Racetronix fuel pump and hotwire kit last weekend. I have to tighten up the new Speed Engineering rear exit true dual this weekend. Thursday it goes in for a Monster stage 3 & Tick MC. They will also tweak the tune a bit so I can put some break in miles on it. Might have final tune and numbers in 3-4 weeks.
How was the racetronix and hot wire kit install? That's on my list but waiting to get my motor back in.. any pointers for my intall? How long did it take you?
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