When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well, You are using a stock pushrod length with a milled head which tells me you didn't measure. Also, .030 with that much lift I would imagine would require a fly cut due to PTV issues unless you use an oversized head gasket.
what were your cam specs? Do you remember what your ptv was and how much you took off your heads?
Vindicator specs are 240/244 .605/.596 112 LSA. its been a while since I put that motor together. I want to say they were milled .035" and when checking ptv with heads shimmed off the block .040 one of the valves made contact. I dont remember if it was a the intake or exhaust but I do know for sure that one relief was cut .100" and the other was cut .080"
With rockers and pushrods pulled ptv contact is not your problem. If the crank is making a full revoltion and stopping, the cam is only making a 1/2 a revolution. FIrst thing that somes to my mind is you left something in a cylinder during reassembly. THat happens more than you think. I cant think of any bolts in the timing setup that you may have accidentally switched to cause this. I think you should definitely pull head and check ptv but I suspect your problem is timing related somehow on front of motor.
And as far as pushrod length every setup likes something a little different. THat motor with the Vindicator was quietest with 7.4" pushrods.
I would imagine the only downside to a thicker gasket would be compression. But I'm no expert. But I would do exactly what the guy above me stated. Pull the rockers off and see if the engine rotates. All the valves will be closed so if the motor spins you know you have PTV issues. Then I would measure how big of an issue it is.
I pulled the rockers and pushrods no change. The motor turns counter clockwise and clockwise and stops at the same spot. I'll have the heads off to inspec the pistons for marks tomorrow.
Originally Posted by Jspeller
I'm pretty positive I didn't drop a lifter.
If you pulled the rockers and pushrods there is nothing pushing on the valves and theoretically the pistons have nothing to hit. Unless there is foreign debris in there...
Unless the cam locked up or the timing gear is tight, I would suspect a droped lifter.
If you pulled the rockers and pushrods there is nothing pushing on the valves and theoretically the pistons have nothing to hit. Unless there is foreign debris in there...
Unless the cam locked up or the timing gear is tight, I would suspect a droped lifter.
my chain was tighter on one side than the other but I've researched and found that to be normal
No lifters fell and I didn't take the front cover off to mess with the cam yet but I did see the brow. The stoppage sounds like it's coming from the front but idk if that even matters at this point
Looks like a piece of my block broke off on the inside?? I have no clue how this could've happened! I turned the cam over and I don't see any marks and there are none on my stock cam.
Take the cover off. Take the chain off and make sure the cam spins freely with the gear on. The cam gear could be getting hung up on one of the retainer bolts possibly. Also, if you install the cam gear on the wrong side it will sit too close to the retainer plate and most definitely get hung up on one of the retainer bolts.
Did you install a new oil pump/timing chain. Idk if this could be an issue but IIRC melling oil pumps and double rollers don't mix without being shimmed. Just a thought.
Did you install a new oil pump/timing chain. Idk if this could be an issue but IIRC melling oil pumps and double rollers don't mix without being shimmed. Just a thought.
Did you install a new oil pump/timing chain. Idk if this could be an issue but IIRC melling oil pumps and double rollers don't mix without being shimmed. Just a thought.
And then...........
Once you space the pump out to not hit the chain, the timing cover hits and needs grinding for clearance as well
Good enough reasons to just stick with an LS2 chain or C5R/C7R chain from Katech
The last thing i'd do if I had PTV issues is put on a thick gasket. Besides losing the compression you milled the heads for you will have little "squish" to force gases into the combustion chamber. When the piston comes up you want the it to be close (.030-.040") to the flat part of the head. The "heart shape" in the combustion chamber. Forcing the gases into it allows more timing without knock.
The last thing i'd do if I had PTV issues is put on a thick gasket. Besides losing the compression you milled the heads for you will have little "squish" to force gases into the combustion chamber. When the piston comes up you want the it to be close (.030-.040") to the flat part of the head. The "heart shape" in the combustion chamber. Forcing the gases into it allows more timing without knock.
Tight quench allows more power from less timing. More tightly compacted atomized mixture burns faster/quicker. Needing less timing lead
And then...........
Once you space the pump out to not hit the chain, the timing cover hits and needs grinding for clearance as well
Good enough reasons to just stick with an LS2 chain or C5R/C7R chain from Katech
i agree, i was like man i gotta have double roller i assume, told tsp my setup they were like just go with a ls2 single roller you won't have any issues. Then after doing more research it just made sense.
11-01-2016, 11:23 AM
Exactly.. 
