Help me plan my LQ4 370 YSI Build
11-18-2016, 10:23 AM
#1
Help me plan my LQ4 370 YSI Build Hey guys, am currently at the planning stages of my next build and know when to ask for help when going into uncharted waters in terms of experience. Bear with me for the long post.
Current Setup: 01 Corvette Coupe Manual
A&A Kit with V3 si supercharger and 3.6 pulley/Meth/60lb injectors and LPE fuel pump with BAP.
LS6 Short Block with upgraded rings and bearings
Ported 243 Heads with Beehive PSI springs
220r Cam which is 220/220
Headers/Exhaust
Fast92 IM
LS2 TB
Other Supporting Mods Already On Car: Upgraded Clutch, Suspension, Rear End, Brakes, Tires
Goal: Would like to hit 1000whp that can be weekend warrior street driven potentially on a few hour road trip.
Planned Upgrades Needing Feedback:
Using 317 Heads instead of my ported 243 heads to lower compression. I have the 243 heads on my car now and the 317 heads in the garage, which would you use if you were planning on throwing 20-25psi at the motor? What springs should I plan on upgrading to if I want to be able to safely take the motor up to 7000rpm given the planned power.
Picked up an LQ4 block with great condition stock crank. Am leaning toward going the 370 route instead of 408. Have concerns over 408 being less forgiving to poorer quality E85 fuel in addition to wear from high revs. But could be coerced another direction. Need feedback on what pistons/rods will cut the mustard for my goals. Have read of many people putting down 1000whp on a stock crank, but not as many SC'd. Would you go forged crank?
Upgrade Fuel Pump(s), Rails, Lines and Injectors for E85.
Have never upgraded fuel other than injectors in my life could use feedback. Was thinking of running 1200cc injectors, Aeromotive A1000 External pump with Hobbs Switch and upgrading lines and rails? Do I need to upgrade rails? Reminder I'm a mile high in altitude and can get away with a little less fuel than if I were at sea level. Could really use some feedback from those who have experience.
YSI supercharger, not sure what pulley/boost is needed maybe 2.75, 8 rib kit and flip drive. What is the most cost effective way for me to upgrade my supercharger to YSI and prevent belt slip?
Anything I'm not considering that I should be? Also any constructive criticism/feedback is welcome.
Current Setup: 01 Corvette Coupe Manual
A&A Kit with V3 si supercharger and 3.6 pulley/Meth/60lb injectors and LPE fuel pump with BAP.
LS6 Short Block with upgraded rings and bearings
Ported 243 Heads with Beehive PSI springs
220r Cam which is 220/220
Headers/Exhaust
Fast92 IM
LS2 TB
Other Supporting Mods Already On Car: Upgraded Clutch, Suspension, Rear End, Brakes, Tires
Goal: Would like to hit 1000whp that can be weekend warrior street driven potentially on a few hour road trip.
Planned Upgrades Needing Feedback:
Using 317 Heads instead of my ported 243 heads to lower compression. I have the 243 heads on my car now and the 317 heads in the garage, which would you use if you were planning on throwing 20-25psi at the motor? What springs should I plan on upgrading to if I want to be able to safely take the motor up to 7000rpm given the planned power.
Picked up an LQ4 block with great condition stock crank. Am leaning toward going the 370 route instead of 408. Have concerns over 408 being less forgiving to poorer quality E85 fuel in addition to wear from high revs. But could be coerced another direction. Need feedback on what pistons/rods will cut the mustard for my goals. Have read of many people putting down 1000whp on a stock crank, but not as many SC'd. Would you go forged crank?
Upgrade Fuel Pump(s), Rails, Lines and Injectors for E85.
Have never upgraded fuel other than injectors in my life could use feedback. Was thinking of running 1200cc injectors, Aeromotive A1000 External pump with Hobbs Switch and upgrading lines and rails? Do I need to upgrade rails? Reminder I'm a mile high in altitude and can get away with a little less fuel than if I were at sea level. Could really use some feedback from those who have experience.
YSI supercharger, not sure what pulley/boost is needed maybe 2.75, 8 rib kit and flip drive. What is the most cost effective way for me to upgrade my supercharger to YSI and prevent belt slip?
Anything I'm not considering that I should be? Also any constructive criticism/feedback is welcome.
11-19-2016, 11:14 PM
#2
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Personally I would run a good crank if those are your goals. 1K on a turbo is much easier on the crank then 1K with a SC. At that RPM and power level the stock crank is not going to be happy spinning a SC IMO. I am finishing up my own 370, plan is 7K and 20+ psi. I am running a Callies Dragonslayer.
11-20-2016, 04:45 PM
#4
I think a dragonslayer though would be more then enough crank for a YSI and about $1300 less then a CCW crank to support for 1000hp. I ran a single keyway compstar with A YSI iron 408 motor with LS9 for years with no issues. I think a CCW crank is when your looking closer to 1600-2000hp. That 4 bolt head will give up the ghost before a decent non CCW crank breaks. I'd be sinking money in the best Intercooler system you can afford to keep them iat's in check. Blowers
Don't cheap on rods, there not to expensive anyways. Callie's or Oliver billet I beams are great Rods.
11-21-2016, 01:22 AM
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Just checked this out, very nice piece. Wish this was out when I was in the market for a CCW crank 2 years ago!
I think a dragonslayer though would be more then enough crank for a YSI and about $1300 less then a CCW crank to support for 1000hp. I ran a single keyway compstar with A YSI iron 408 motor with LS9 for years with no issues. I think a CCW crank is when your looking closer to 1600-2000hp. That 4 bolt head will give up the ghost before a decent non CCW crank breaks. I'd be sinking money in the best Intercooler system you can afford to keep them iat's in check. Blowers
Don't cheap on rods, there not to expensive anyways. Callie's or Oliver billet I beams are great Rods.
I think a dragonslayer though would be more then enough crank for a YSI and about $1300 less then a CCW crank to support for 1000hp. I ran a single keyway compstar with A YSI iron 408 motor with LS9 for years with no issues. I think a CCW crank is when your looking closer to 1600-2000hp. That 4 bolt head will give up the ghost before a decent non CCW crank breaks. I'd be sinking money in the best Intercooler system you can afford to keep them iat's in check. Blowers
Don't cheap on rods, there not to expensive anyways. Callie's or Oliver billet I beams are great Rods.
Agreed, I am running a Dragonslayer with Callies Ultra Billet Rods. I know it can be debated all day but I feel the back pressure in a turbo setup helps the rods when they are reaching TDC on the exhaust stroke where as with a blower you do not have this. How much it plays a role I don't know.
11-21-2016, 09:41 AM
#6
Yea absolutely turbo cars can get away with less rod then anything else, my buddy's eagle rod/crank 408 was been making 1200whp through a Glide and big tire for two years now with no issues. I believe this is the reason you see a lot of turbo cars making big power on less then stellar set ups lol I honestly not sure why anyone runs blowers anymore, belts are a bitch, hard on the crank and main bearings, accessorie drives are expensive. Just my opinion I guess