OP, Cam Motion won't disappoint. Trust me.

 

I really appreciate your response and suggestions. I'll spend some time looking at them when I have more time. I did notice thst the gear recommendation for that cam is 3:42 and I have 3:23. I'm a hands on guy but I've never done a cam swap before. I'm looking forward to doing something like this.

I do wish I had a shop so I could pull the motor and refresh the bottom end too.

 

that's pretty good for a stock cammed A4 car compared to what I've seen at my local track. most stock cammed bolt on cars are usually 106-110mph. most of the cammed and stalled ones are still in the mid 12's too though haha.

 

$3100 for low 11's is why i'm sticking with the ls6 cam, mail tune, and nitrous until I have money in the bank for a proper engine build...which will be years from now with getting married, having kids, bigger house...etc. The cam should take me to 11.40's @ about 117 and I shouldn't get too much flak from the track, but turn on the kit when I'm ready for a 10 second pass and the consequent boot, lol. While I'm in my 117k mile motor, I have installed a new oil pump, timing chain, added a chain damper (you'd be shock how loose factory chains are). I just wanted to add a little power, move my powerband higher so the car is more efficient down the track, and take care of some maintenance items for a little peace of mind.

 

If you're running 12.0 now, a streetable cam will lop off another .4-.5 tenths... and budget heads can lop another .3-.4... and then you're at what 11.3 or better? With more cam, more heads, and more stall... you could touch 10s. But I don't think the price and giving up the streetability of the car is worth that.

The other option is nitrous instead of the heads. I'd still do the cam and upgrade the top end. It'll make the nitrous work better. And a budget nitrous setup is about the cost of budget heads. And you can add 150 shot without much issue. And that should drop well over a second off your ET at this speed. Cam + 150 shot would work with your converter as well. And you'd be into the 10s.

 

could be the track...I know my bolt-on setup was north of 115. I pulled a few cars that trapped 115-116 from digs and rolls, but I had 1.85 rockers and 918 springs...so that was probably worth 1-2mph.

on paper that is how it should add up, but in real world it's not always that easy. It takes a well sorted suspension and setup to break into the 10's. Instant center, weight transfer, and traction needs to be on point. I could easily see a decent heads cam setup only shaving 5 tenths if the above is not dialed in.

For example...I use a GTECH meter to measure gains on mods I have done to my car on the street. It has always been within a tenth of the track for accuracy, the caveat being a unprepped street is much harder to launch. I had my Bolt-on setup running 12.2 @ 119. did the H/C/I swap and ended up slowing down ET wise but picked up 6 mph. Went 12.4 @ 125, destroying my 315-35-17 drag radials to 70mph. There was absolutely no traction below 30 mph from a roll. So I swapped to a drag pack, adjustable tq arm, adjusted my pinion angle, and instant center and went 11.5 @ 127. I have since done a couple more tweaks but the weather has not allowed me to get back out and test. I am guessing this combo has a 11.3 in it on the street. At the track, front sway bar removed, it has the potential for a 10.9 but everything will need to spot on with some good air.

 

I'm in search for 243 heads and will keep my eye out on deals on other parts. The Cam Motion kit creator is very helpful. I look forward to doing business with you guys. I watched a few vids on cam swaps today and was motivated.

 

It's pretty easy really...just take your time and do not rush it.

 

Agreed. There are no big surprises and everything basically goes back the way it came out. Once you've done it, you will find it funny that you ever thought it a daunting task. But don't start the night before, ether.

 

Pretty easy for sure. Take your time and don't rush. I fired mine up yesterday. The 2-3 seconds waiting for the oil pressure gauge to get off zero felt like forever! lol.

 

Will the cam clear the AC condenser or does it have to be removed when I remove the radiator?

At this point, I don't plan to install a cam with my 194K valve train. Sense I'm pulling heads, I don't want to miss the opportunity to upgrade to 243's for $300-$400(unported of course). Once I find heads, I plan to decide on a cam and begin gathering other components. I have to research: lifters, oil pump, inspecting rockers, timing chain or timing set. I also need to determine if I need to upgrade injectors and fuel pump.

Congrats on your start up Brian.

 

You can keep the condenser hooked up. Just kind of pull or push it out of the way when it's time to pull the cam. Just don't go too far. Those lines are old and are prone to cracking.

 

OK, awesome.

 

yes you should change injectors...GTP injectors work great for us and are easy to tune and cheap. If you have the original fuel pump with that mileage then yes replace that too. Walbro 255 with a hot wire kit.

 

I ordered the Racetronix RFPK-001 from WS6Store BF sale. Someone mentioned replacing the FPR while I'm there. Is the FPR a common issue? A search doesn't seem to suggest that it is.

 

FPR isn't an issue. The Racetronix setup and some FAST 36s (the GTP injectors) would be a good investment.

 

Regulators very seldom fail...pump and fuel filter are the main thing.

 

OK guys. I have purchased a complete set of 799 heads from a TBSS for $400. I have reached out to AI via Email about working them over. I'm a little bit clueless about how much to have them machined for CC. There are so many choices from folks wanting to help. Cam Motion, AI, TSP.

My alternative plan to do do TSP LS6 2.5 and a 228r package and just sell these 799's. Buying the 2.5s verses sending mine to them is nearly a wash. I considered just going with the stage 1 and using the valves in my 799's, but it sounds like the slightly larger valves give a small bump in power.

 

I prefer lighter valves...some turned down LS3's would be my choice for the 799's or sell them and get the PRC 225's...they come with lighter valves.

 

PRC 225's aren't much more. What's the advantage of light weight valves?