Help! I think my reluctor wheel slipped.
12-21-2016, 03:22 PM
#1
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Help! I think my reluctor wheel slipped. Hi guys,
A little backround first. One hot night my car overheated badly. It didnt lock up or anything, but wouldnt idle on its own. I had it towed home and just now started messing with it. I would crank the engine and it exhibited the symptoms of severely retarded timing. (popping thru exhaust and fire coming out of exhaust while the injectors just hosing down the plugs.) Leakdown and compression tests checked out ok. I started suspecting the reluctor wheel (24X) might have slipped on the crank seeing how it got insanely hot, so I conducted a simple test. Thinking the timing was way retarded, I called up 60 degrees of timing on the holley. The car now will start with no backfiring, but still hoses the plugs down. My question is, if the reluctor wheel has slipped, will it retard or otherwise screw the injector pulse off enough causing all the raw fuel? If so, I will put a TDC finder, timing tape and pointer on it and pry the reluctor up through the crank sensor hole until timing checks correctly with a light. If that allows my original tune to run the car properly, then I will include properly indexing a new reluctor in my rebuild. Thanks in advance guys!
A little backround first. One hot night my car overheated badly. It didnt lock up or anything, but wouldnt idle on its own. I had it towed home and just now started messing with it. I would crank the engine and it exhibited the symptoms of severely retarded timing. (popping thru exhaust and fire coming out of exhaust while the injectors just hosing down the plugs.) Leakdown and compression tests checked out ok. I started suspecting the reluctor wheel (24X) might have slipped on the crank seeing how it got insanely hot, so I conducted a simple test. Thinking the timing was way retarded, I called up 60 degrees of timing on the holley. The car now will start with no backfiring, but still hoses the plugs down. My question is, if the reluctor wheel has slipped, will it retard or otherwise screw the injector pulse off enough causing all the raw fuel? If so, I will put a TDC finder, timing tape and pointer on it and pry the reluctor up through the crank sensor hole until timing checks correctly with a light. If that allows my original tune to run the car properly, then I will include properly indexing a new reluctor in my rebuild. Thanks in advance guys!
12-21-2016, 04:12 PM
#2
I would probably try an new sensor first or at least a different one. I'd actually try a different cam and crank sensor if it got as hot as your saying. Sensors arent a big fan of heat and if it got hot enough to quit running just imagine how hot they got after shut down and the heat got a chance to soak into everything. Do a quick check on the wire to.
12-21-2016, 07:25 PM
#4
I had a reluctor wheel slip on a new crank with 90 miles on it (now a welded on billet one) sounds just like what you are saying. Was driving and for a bit I could step in the gas and the car would just get loud, never gain in speed, drove it a mile home and it just running slower and slower with no power, it then died in the middle of the street in front of the driveway and had to drag it up with a mower. Wouldn't start and just popped through the intake.
I pulled the sensor and stuck my finger up there and could move it with no problem. May be able to just feel it and know without spending a lot of time.
I pulled the sensor and stuck my finger up there and could move it with no problem. May be able to just feel it and know without spending a lot of time.