A little different oil question...
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From: Atlanta
A little different oil question... I don't think search can help me with this one. Best oil for a new 427 C5R, SC and solid roller? The car will be taken to the strip for a dozen or so passes early in it's life and then only be driven on occasion. The weather will be warm to hot when it's raced and I live in the SE. Will probably be trailored if it goes on any long trips. No A/C.
I'm partial to RP racing oil but I would like to hear some good solid advice as to which brand, weight, etc. will be best for this car. I'm guessing the same oil would not be perfect for it's early use and break in as would be used for more tame driving. Thanks in advance.
I'm partial to RP racing oil but I would like to hear some good solid advice as to which brand, weight, etc. will be best for this car. I'm guessing the same oil would not be perfect for it's early use and break in as would be used for more tame driving. Thanks in advance.
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
If you're already partial to RP's racing oils, then I highly recommend RP Racing 41. It's an excellent oil that has shown great oil analysis results in the LS1. Their racing oils are much better than their street oils, and can even go 5-6k or longer without a problem.
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grb, check with autozone or oriellys...
the local azone just started carrying them
im sure thunder sells them and I believe tbyrne, and im sure several others.
pic a logo anc clicky
(yeah brought the thread back around... durin a search
the local azone just started carrying them
im sure thunder sells them and I believe tbyrne, and im sure several others.
pic a logo anc clicky
(yeah brought the thread back around... durin a search
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Originally Posted by grb
I don't think search can help me with this one. Best oil for a new 427 C5R, SC and solid roller? The car will be taken to the strip for a dozen or so passes early in it's life and then only be driven on occasion. The weather will be warm to hot when it's raced and I live in the SE. Will probably be trailored if it goes on any long trips. No A/C.
I'm partial to RP racing oil but I would like to hear some good solid advice as to which brand, weight, etc. will be best for this car. I'm guessing the same oil would not be perfect for it's early use and break in as would be used for more tame driving. Thanks in advance.
I'm partial to RP racing oil but I would like to hear some good solid advice as to which brand, weight, etc. will be best for this car. I'm guessing the same oil would not be perfect for it's early use and break in as would be used for more tame driving. Thanks in advance.
I'm guessing since your saying "new", the engine is brand new and has not had its 5K miles of brake in yet? If so, then DO NOT use synthetic. You will never get the rings to seat correctly and you will always burn oil. If you don't agree, go read Darton's instructions for their wet sleeves (Darton quote: "We also recommend you do not run synthetic oil until at least 5000 miles. Synthetics work so well that the engine will never break in properly if it is used too soon"). After 5K you can switch over to synthetic.
There is no reason to baby the engine, you just don't want to abuse it. Darton's suggestions are don't go past 4000 for the first 500 miles. Then from 500-1000 miles don't go over 6000. Once your past 1000 miles you are free to go wild
. I just finished my 388 all bore and tried to use 5W-30. I found it too be too thin once the engine heated up so I will be going up to a 5W-50. I don't want to go 15W-50 (which is what Mobil 1 is
) as I like the easy flow that the 5W gives a low temp so I don't know who I will use long term. I use Napa Gold filters but I don't know what they have for the stock LS1 size. I use two, 1 quart capacity filters (each holds a quart) from a Ford truck (I think....) mounted on a remote oil filter bracket so I can't help you much there.
Last edited by 2001CamaroGuy; Jul 12, 2004 at 05:49 PM.
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From: Atlanta
Where's Patman when you need him?? Has he been kidnapped??
First, getting 1,000 much less 5,000 is highly unlikely. So, you're saying I should run a high grade dyno oil....period. Just change it a lot I guess. As far as abusing the engine once LWA feels it is sufficiently broken in it's going down the track and on the dyno. First 1/4 mile should be at the Super Car Reunion...near St. Louis I think. It will go on the dyno before that.
First, getting 1,000 much less 5,000 is highly unlikely. So, you're saying I should run a high grade dyno oil....period. Just change it a lot I guess. As far as abusing the engine once LWA feels it is sufficiently broken in it's going down the track and on the dyno. First 1/4 mile should be at the Super Car Reunion...near St. Louis I think. It will go on the dyno before that.
Originally Posted by grb
So, you're saying I should run a high grade dyno oil....period. Just change it a lot I guess.
no.....the dyno oil is to let the rings fully seat. As soon as the rings seat and you are no longer loosing any oil you can switch over to synthetic. The 5K miles is a suggestion to ensure that the rings have seated. I have been told the rings may fully seat as quickly as the first good WOT dyno pull or it could take the full 5K.
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
I agree with starting on dino oil with a rebuilt motor, since it's always a good idea to do frequent oil changes. Running synthetic wouldn't harm the break in process, it's just too expensive to run it for such short intervals. If I was to get a motor rebuilt I'd do the first oil change at 100 miles, then again at 500, then switch to synthetic at 2 or 3k.
