Why is 7 always the problem?
#62
yeah I did stretch the truth a bit there in back in 2000 he worked for gm. In 03 he was in engineering for gm performance parts to help them get that all up and running good. You are talking present I'm talking past wich is more relevant to ls1 rite. Ed Korner was in charge of that other stuff. What I originally said was it helps prevent issues with 7 not completely solve the problem.
#66
FormerVendor
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Block Core Sand
OK, YES I too agree,"keep this going"
NOW the "8's" question is an EASY answer, as I make engine blocks.
The Core Box must have support, the "green" circles, both top and bottom
The Core Sand must "flow" easily when the block is heated.
My latest direction was taken from Jim @ Racing Research.
I will call a GM engineer(ret), now a teacher @ ASU for more information on the #7 issue.
He was the TOP GM engineer on LS testing/LS program at the GM Proving Grounds.
Lance, BTW Jim placed sixty "thermo's" on the LS engine/head with no clear answer.
NOW the "8's" question is an EASY answer, as I make engine blocks.
The Core Box must have support, the "green" circles, both top and bottom
The Core Sand must "flow" easily when the block is heated.
My latest direction was taken from Jim @ Racing Research.
I will call a GM engineer(ret), now a teacher @ ASU for more information on the #7 issue.
He was the TOP GM engineer on LS testing/LS program at the GM Proving Grounds.
Lance, BTW Jim placed sixty "thermo's" on the LS engine/head with no clear answer.
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Full Power (09-06-2022)
#68
#69
#70
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (25)
how bad is it hurt? split liner or just a scratch?
i agree we should get back on track. i'm all for a little spirited bullshitting for the sake of bench racing but lets chill with the name calling. way too much of that snarkyness on LS1tech as of late, myself included.
i agree we should get back on track. i'm all for a little spirited bullshitting for the sake of bench racing but lets chill with the name calling. way too much of that snarkyness on LS1tech as of late, myself included.
#71
#72
OK, YES I too agree,"keep this going"
NOW the "8's" question is an EASY answer, as I make engine blocks.
The Core Box must have support, the "green" circles, both top and bottom
The Core Sand must "flow" easily when the block is heated.
My latest direction was taken from Jim @ Racing Research.
I will call a GM engineer(ret), now a teacher @ ASU for more information on the #7 issue.
He was the TOP GM engineer on LS testing/LS program at the GM Proving Grounds.
Lance, BTW Jim placed sixty "thermo's" on the LS engine/head with no clear answer.
NOW the "8's" question is an EASY answer, as I make engine blocks.
The Core Box must have support, the "green" circles, both top and bottom
The Core Sand must "flow" easily when the block is heated.
My latest direction was taken from Jim @ Racing Research.
I will call a GM engineer(ret), now a teacher @ ASU for more information on the #7 issue.
He was the TOP GM engineer on LS testing/LS program at the GM Proving Grounds.
Lance, BTW Jim placed sixty "thermo's" on the LS engine/head with no clear answer.
#76
TECH Fanatic
I have. There were no pictures of the factory piece. Now there are. You're welcome.
#77
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (25)
oof looks like that piece stuck and rocked the piston pretty good. surprised it didnt bend the rod.
you might get away with a hone. looks can be deceiving when your looking at a glossy surface from the side. i'd probably run a dingleball though there real quick so I can get a good look at it. just a passor two to take the gloss off. then check the bore for deformation with a dial bore gauge.
you might get away with a hone. looks can be deceiving when your looking at a glossy surface from the side. i'd probably run a dingleball though there real quick so I can get a good look at it. just a passor two to take the gloss off. then check the bore for deformation with a dial bore gauge.
#78
oof looks like that piece stuck and rocked the piston pretty good. surprised it didnt bend the rod.
you might get away with a hone. looks can be deceiving when your looking at a glossy surface from the side. i'd probably run a dingleball though there real quick so I can get a good look at it. just a passor two to take the gloss off. then check the bore for deformation with a dial bore gauge.
you might get away with a hone. looks can be deceiving when your looking at a glossy surface from the side. i'd probably run a dingleball though there real quick so I can get a good look at it. just a passor two to take the gloss off. then check the bore for deformation with a dial bore gauge.