LQ4 Design and Build
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LQ4 Design and Build Sorry I know there are a few posts about this question, but I wanted specific advise on my build. I am new to rebuilding LS engines and would like some help designing my build.
I have a 2002 6.0 LQ4 out of a 2002 Chevy 2500 I received as a Christmas bonus from my boss. I plan on swapping the engine into my 94 Jeep YJ. The engine has 200,000 miles on it so I was planning on doing a build/rebuild. I don't need much added horsepower due to the lighter weight, especially because the tub is fiberglass, but I would like some recommendations with the build.
I was planning on getting it bored .030 over at a machine shop and running oversized pistons, getting the stock crank polished and fixed up at the machine shop, upgrading the cams/lifters/spring/rods, (not so much worried about horsepower with the cam, I want it more for the idle lobe) doing the crank, cam, and rod bearings, all rings and gaskets, and a high performance oil pump and timing chain.
One other thing I am debating on is if I should run the stock 317 heads and get them ported when I take the rest of the engine to the machine shop to get cleaned up, or if I should find a set of 243s. trying to keep my build on a budget I kind of just want to run the stock 317s unless there is a huge advantage to the 243s.
What do you guys think of this build? I know it will have enough power to move my little jeep any way I do it, but if I have the engine torn apart and I'm putting money into it I want to do it right the first time. Also I am using the stock 4L60E which is going to be rebuilt and upgraded along with either a Dana 20 Twin stick transfer case or the stock NP231 from the jeep (just depends on if I can find a 3/4 ton passenger side input front axle.
Thanks guys help is greatly appreciated!
I have a 2002 6.0 LQ4 out of a 2002 Chevy 2500 I received as a Christmas bonus from my boss. I plan on swapping the engine into my 94 Jeep YJ. The engine has 200,000 miles on it so I was planning on doing a build/rebuild. I don't need much added horsepower due to the lighter weight, especially because the tub is fiberglass, but I would like some recommendations with the build.
I was planning on getting it bored .030 over at a machine shop and running oversized pistons, getting the stock crank polished and fixed up at the machine shop, upgrading the cams/lifters/spring/rods, (not so much worried about horsepower with the cam, I want it more for the idle lobe) doing the crank, cam, and rod bearings, all rings and gaskets, and a high performance oil pump and timing chain.
One other thing I am debating on is if I should run the stock 317 heads and get them ported when I take the rest of the engine to the machine shop to get cleaned up, or if I should find a set of 243s. trying to keep my build on a budget I kind of just want to run the stock 317s unless there is a huge advantage to the 243s.
What do you guys think of this build? I know it will have enough power to move my little jeep any way I do it, but if I have the engine torn apart and I'm putting money into it I want to do it right the first time. Also I am using the stock 4L60E which is going to be rebuilt and upgraded along with either a Dana 20 Twin stick transfer case or the stock NP231 from the jeep (just depends on if I can find a 3/4 ton passenger side input front axle.
Thanks guys help is greatly appreciated!
505 Performance Hi, I work with Zach Steele at 505 performance.
He uses my Coils, ECU's, Fuel Pumps, etc.
Thus a great price on Jeep conversion parts if you want these items from Pantera EFI.
I would "save" you some money buy specifying/selling you your needed items.
My Build, a top quality formula at fair cost.
1. Hone (ONLY) the block and use a RaceTec piston, (+ .004" bore) rings, .927" pins.
2. The rods can be bushed to .927" which allows for a floating LIGHTER pin weight, no balance needed.
3. The camshaft, a Crower regrind, Smith Bros push rods (longer), and Yellow Springs will work fine for your needs.
4. The King rod and main bearings are low cost AND better quality.
5. The Oil Pump I would fit is OEM GM 2010 Camaro @ $90.00
6. The IwIs LS-7 timing chain IS the strongest, least cost.
What other items would you need specified ?
Lance
He uses my Coils, ECU's, Fuel Pumps, etc.
Thus a great price on Jeep conversion parts if you want these items from Pantera EFI.
I would "save" you some money buy specifying/selling you your needed items.
My Build, a top quality formula at fair cost.
1. Hone (ONLY) the block and use a RaceTec piston, (+ .004" bore) rings, .927" pins.
2. The rods can be bushed to .927" which allows for a floating LIGHTER pin weight, no balance needed.
3. The camshaft, a Crower regrind, Smith Bros push rods (longer), and Yellow Springs will work fine for your needs.
4. The King rod and main bearings are low cost AND better quality.
5. The Oil Pump I would fit is OEM GM 2010 Camaro @ $90.00
6. The IwIs LS-7 timing chain IS the strongest, least cost.
What other items would you need specified ?
Lance
