ARP Head Stud Problem, and Solution
So ARP now does not recommend using their lube on the washer and only on the bottom side of the nut?
This is my instructions from my kit that was manufactured October 2016. Like I said before, I talked to an ARP Tech over the phone and he specifically told me to Lube both sides of the washers. I took a picture of the 5/16" bolt instructions but it is the same for the 7/16" with the exception of torquing to 80 ft lbs.
Do you think that using their lube on both sides of the washers can cause the nut to back off any and loose its torque setting?
This is my instructions from my kit that was manufactured October 2016. Like I said before, I talked to an ARP Tech over the phone and he specifically told me to Lube both sides of the washers. I took a picture of the 5/16" bolt instructions but it is the same for the 7/16" with the exception of torquing to 80 ft lbs.
Do you think that using their lube on both sides of the washers can cause the nut to back off any and loose its torque setting?
Last edited by 07NBSChevy; Jan 27, 2017 at 09:31 PM.
Originally Posted by Pantera EFI
OK, we are now educated with respect to bolt/stud Torque Values.
I have designed head gaskets.
One method used to engineer forces was to place "paper" between the head and block/head-gasket-block.
This type of material produces color changes in the material with respect to force.
Would there be someone that would like to do that test and report to LS-1 Tech members ?
I will find the paper material.
Lance
I have designed head gaskets.
One method used to engineer forces was to place "paper" between the head and block/head-gasket-block.
This type of material produces color changes in the material with respect to force.
Would there be someone that would like to do that test and report to LS-1 Tech members ?
I will find the paper material.
Lance
I will try to find it
Edit found it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...d-studs-3.html
Last edited by MY_2K_Z; Jan 28, 2017 at 11:07 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
So I struggled with this off and on over the week. Can't get the darned thing out! I tried left handed drill bits, easy outs etc.
Monday I'll take it to a machine shop and see if they can get it out. They'll probably have to use a TimeSert to repair the thread. Since I torqued down 4 other studs before this one snapped, I'll just have them TimeSert those holes in case there was any thread damage. The torque wrench clicked at 100 ft/lb's, but who knows how much torque there really was.
It really irritates me that I spend a bucket load of money for a "quality" product, and these are the results. Weeks of wasted effort and lost money.
That is frustrating.
I've used ARP bolts for a while now. I would not recommend putting moly lube on both sides of the washer. It goes on the threads and on the bottom of the bolt head. You want it between the head and the top of the washer but not on the bottom. That helps with the torque reading in my experience.
I've used ARP bolts for a while now. I would not recommend putting moly lube on both sides of the washer. It goes on the threads and on the bottom of the bolt head. You want it between the head and the top of the washer but not on the bottom. That helps with the torque reading in my experience.
Oil Filter Moly Hi, yes use oil.
My reason is different, the reason of a "plugged" Oil Filter.
The OVER use of Moly Thread Lube can cause the filter to be compacted with that debris.
Lance
My reason is different, the reason of a "plugged" Oil Filter.
The OVER use of Moly Thread Lube can cause the filter to be compacted with that debris.
Lance
This is why us smart engine builders do a oil & filter change after first start and heat cycle.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 18
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From: Dallas, Tx
You want the nut alone to turn. That way, all the twisting action goes into tensioning the bolt. It the washer turns also, some of the torque reading on your torque wrench includes what it takes to turn the washer.
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Thread Starter
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
According to the tech, if the washer spins, it will act like a bearing. A bearing will spin with little resistance, even of it is very tight. So you'll crank on that nut until you finally overcome the bearing effect. Or the stud snaps, or the threads pull out. Whichever comes first.
One method used to engineer forces was to place "paper" between the head and block/head-gasket-block.
This type of material produces color changes in the material with respect to force.
Would there be someone that would like to do that test and report to LS-1 Tech members ?
I will find the paper material.
Lance
This type of material produces color changes in the material with respect to force.
Would there be someone that would like to do that test and report to LS-1 Tech members ?
I will find the paper material.
Lance