Seems like my reluctor wheel might be off a little?
02-27-2017, 02:33 PM
#1
Seems like my reluctor wheel might be off a little? I've searched and found nothing like the problem I'm having.
I rebuilt a '07 5.3 long block and deleted the AFM, I used a stock '02 LS1 cam and new lifters. Everything else came off an '05 5.3. The PCM is an '02 silverado reflashed.
I swapped the reluctor wheel myself by lining it up with the old one, clamping it, and drilling a pilot hole through to the crank then installed a dowel pin. Then I removed the 58x, heated the 24x, slipped it on and when it cooled removed the dowel.
I put the engine in an s10 and reworked all the wiring. It has a stock converter with a built 4L60E.
It runs strong, but doesn't run right.
When driving at cruise around 1400 to 1600 rpm it cuts out a split second once every few minutes. Same at idle, smooth but now and then a studder. On the highway it runs very smooth pulls strong, but at I guess 2500 to 3000 the cel flashes and it stores a p0300 code, random misfire. This is the only condition that sets this code, no other codes ever show up.
Other than that it runs strong, starts right up cold or hot.
I have hp tuners and never could get it to do a case relearn on any vehicle I've tried it on, this one's no different.
I have run the crank angle pid (whatever that is) and it reads 0%.
I'm thinking it's off enough to screw with the injector shot time (or whatever it's called).
Next I'm going to use a piston stop to find tdc. Bring it up on the stop, mark the balancer, rotate the crank the other direction til it stops again and mark the balancer. Then put the tdc mark exactly between those two marks. Should be exact tdc.
Then take hp tuners and lock the timing at, say 16 degrees and check it with a dial type timing light. This should show if it's off right?
I rebuilt a '07 5.3 long block and deleted the AFM, I used a stock '02 LS1 cam and new lifters. Everything else came off an '05 5.3. The PCM is an '02 silverado reflashed.
I swapped the reluctor wheel myself by lining it up with the old one, clamping it, and drilling a pilot hole through to the crank then installed a dowel pin. Then I removed the 58x, heated the 24x, slipped it on and when it cooled removed the dowel.
I put the engine in an s10 and reworked all the wiring. It has a stock converter with a built 4L60E.
It runs strong, but doesn't run right.
When driving at cruise around 1400 to 1600 rpm it cuts out a split second once every few minutes. Same at idle, smooth but now and then a studder. On the highway it runs very smooth pulls strong, but at I guess 2500 to 3000 the cel flashes and it stores a p0300 code, random misfire. This is the only condition that sets this code, no other codes ever show up.
Other than that it runs strong, starts right up cold or hot.
I have hp tuners and never could get it to do a case relearn on any vehicle I've tried it on, this one's no different.
I have run the crank angle pid (whatever that is) and it reads 0%.
I'm thinking it's off enough to screw with the injector shot time (or whatever it's called).
Next I'm going to use a piston stop to find tdc. Bring it up on the stop, mark the balancer, rotate the crank the other direction til it stops again and mark the balancer. Then put the tdc mark exactly between those two marks. Should be exact tdc.
Then take hp tuners and lock the timing at, say 16 degrees and check it with a dial type timing light. This should show if it's off right?
02-27-2017, 03:00 PM
#2
TECH Fanatic
I know nothing about how HPT controls timing, but you certainly need to verify the timing with the method you mentioned above. You can use dial back light if you want. I prefer to set the commanded timing to 0* when checking it. You'll probably need a buddy to help keep it running but you can check it against your TDC mark with a regular timing light that way.
02-27-2017, 05:32 PM
#3
Well here are the results. It might be a degree off. Theres a scratch mark in the rust by the red dot. It's exactly on TDC. I also tried it at 20 degrees.
Can the reluctor wheel be ruled out as causing the problems I described in the first post?
Can the reluctor wheel be ruled out as causing the problems I described in the first post?
02-28-2017, 02:20 PM
#9
hooked up hpt and went into the scanner, engine on
click on special functions icon
click case learn, depress throttle to fuel cut ( consider lowering this in the tune)
let engine Rev back down to idle on its own, key off for 30 sec and then key on, check and clear dtc. Start engine and monitor for codes
there is a video on YouTube about it I'm on mobile so I can't link it. Google case learn hp tuners it's like the 1st or 2nd one.
good luck
02-28-2017, 04:18 PM
#10
Does it mean anything that it never set a case relearn not performed code?
I have the old serial hp tuners from 2006 and it's the one that looks like it's working but stops and says rpm too high.
I just bought the MPVI Pro, it says rev engine slowly to fuel cutoff and has an OK box pop up, I click on ok, the box disappears, I slowly rev and it does nothing at all
I'll check you tube, I also have tomorrow off work so I'll see what I can do.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I have the old serial hp tuners from 2006 and it's the one that looks like it's working but stops and says rpm too high.
I just bought the MPVI Pro, it says rev engine slowly to fuel cutoff and has an OK box pop up, I click on ok, the box disappears, I slowly rev and it does nothing at all
I'll check you tube, I also have tomorrow off work so I'll see what I can do.
Thanks for the suggestions.
03-01-2017, 05:43 AM
#11
TECH Addict
Make sure you check your coils. I had a similar problem where idle and part throttle would miss but wot was totally fine. I have headers and checked each primary at idle with a temp gun and found cylinder 5 temp was alot lower than the rest. Replaced coil and have been fine ever since.
03-01-2017, 07:59 AM
#12
I have replaced the coils. The first ones I had were the ones with the heat sinks, it hardly ran with those. I took the coils off one of my cars to test and it ran way better. Now it has coils off a 2000 silverado still runs good, but these problems I described above have been there the whole time.
03-01-2017, 01:47 PM
#13
Heres my attempt. One with my serial interface I bought in 2004, one with my new MPVI Pro that I just paid $650 for. And if you watch til the end I show the scanner reading the vehicle being in park (some people get rid of the pnp switch I've read) and I will say my tcc unlocks with the brake pedal, so it's getting a brake signal.
It does the same thing with my factory stock camaro too.
03-01-2017, 02:52 PM
#14
I'll take this as an answer, and be done with the case learn bs.
The only time you truly need to do the Crank Relearn is if you get a code for it, genearally after replacing the PCM with a brand new one. Otherwise it's most likely a real misfire or crank sensor issue.
BTW: You'll know if you HAVE to do a Crank Relearn because it sets the Crank Relearn DTC every time you key on or start the engine.
Currently the Tech2 is the only way to do a crank relearn on an LS2 or later series.
BTW: You'll know if you HAVE to do a Crank Relearn because it sets the Crank Relearn DTC every time you key on or start the engine.
Currently the Tech2 is the only way to do a crank relearn on an LS2 or later series.
03-02-2017, 01:32 PM
#18
I think I'm going to tune it. After many miles of scanning it seems to be running lean and have too much timing at cruise. Like 1600 rpm averages 16:1 AFR and 34 degrees advance. It smooths out when manually set richer and lower timing.
Thanks to all for the responses.
Thanks to all for the responses.
03-02-2017, 07:43 PM
#20
Had a truck in the shop the other day that would do what you are describing until I pulled about 4 degrees out of it. I had it way too high initially.. wishful thinking..
If you're near dallas I can do the crank relearn with the snap on scanner for you
For future reference, if you had the reluctor out of place, you should have gotten a cam/crank correlation code.
If you're near dallas I can do the crank relearn with the snap on scanner for you
For future reference, if you had the reluctor out of place, you should have gotten a cam/crank correlation code.