Pushrod decision
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 100
Likes: 3
From: Toronto
Pushrod decision Hi Team,
Easy question I done some reading lot of different opinions.
My Mods:
243 heads cleaned up by the machine shop nothing special no port n polish just cleaned up n worked back to stock specs
Ls6 intake manifold
Stock cam
Should i get chromoloy push rods or use my stocks for now
Easy question I done some reading lot of different opinions.
My Mods:
243 heads cleaned up by the machine shop nothing special no port n polish just cleaned up n worked back to stock specs
Ls6 intake manifold
Stock cam
Should i get chromoloy push rods or use my stocks for now
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 100
Likes: 3
From: Toronto
Yellow springs so I guess stock yes.
One problem though when I took them out i just put em away in a zip lock bag I didn't put them in order thinking I was gonna upgrade to chromoloy.
Is it okay to just drop em back in ?
Anyone else on their opinions stock or chromoloy?
One problem though when I took them out i just put em away in a zip lock bag I didn't put them in order thinking I was gonna upgrade to chromoloy.
Is it okay to just drop em back in ?
Anyone else on their opinions stock or chromoloy?
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Normal chromoly push rods are cheap and less likely to bow and flex. I would always prefer a good rod like the Manton's mentioned above. Adding a cam will most likely have a smaller base circle and need a longer rod than the 7.4" stocker.
Hydraulic lifter systems are not as critical for position as a solid setup. It's still important though as the parts do wear into each other.
From a personal standpoint on a stockish motor I'd get a cheap set of chromoly from a good company. Once you go to a bigger cam and springs, go with a Manton series 3/4.
Hydraulic lifter systems are not as critical for position as a solid setup. It's still important though as the parts do wear into each other.
From a personal standpoint on a stockish motor I'd get a cheap set of chromoly from a good company. Once you go to a bigger cam and springs, go with a Manton series 3/4.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 100
Likes: 3
From: Toronto
Thanks for everyone's reply and input! put my mind at ease...
I ordered some Trick flow 7.400 ones since the cam is stock and the rest of the mods are stock specs as well.
Thanks team appreciate it !
I ordered some Trick flow 7.400 ones since the cam is stock and the rest of the mods are stock specs as well.
Thanks team appreciate it !
Normal chromoly push rods are cheap and less likely to bow and flex. I would always prefer a good rod like the Manton's mentioned above. Adding a cam will most likely have a smaller base circle and need a longer rod than the 7.4" stocker.
Hydraulic lifter systems are not as critical for position as a solid setup. It's still important though as the parts do wear into each other.
From a personal standpoint on a stockish motor I'd get a cheap set of chromoly from a good company. Once you go to a bigger cam and springs, go with a Manton series 3/4.
Hydraulic lifter systems are not as critical for position as a solid setup. It's still important though as the parts do wear into each other.
From a personal standpoint on a stockish motor I'd get a cheap set of chromoly from a good company. Once you go to a bigger cam and springs, go with a Manton series 3/4.
Yellow springs so I guess stock yes.
One problem though when I took them out i just put em away in a zip lock bag I didn't put them in order thinking I was gonna upgrade to chromoloy.
Is it okay to just drop em back in ?
Anyone else on their opinions stock or chromoloy?
One problem though when I took them out i just put em away in a zip lock bag I didn't put them in order thinking I was gonna upgrade to chromoloy.
Is it okay to just drop em back in ?
Anyone else on their opinions stock or chromoloy?
Originally Posted by vettenuts
They will bow and flex as much as stock. The Chrome Moly doesn't alter the stiffness of the pushrod at all, only hardness and failure point.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 100
Likes: 3
From: Toronto
heard the same, but the heads I got were in great condition with only 60 000KM on em...
Also the machine shop I took it to is pretty reputable around here, great work he did on em
and I asked him like 5 times if the spring rate/pressure was good and they were all holding the right rate/pressure he said.
but thinking about it I may just get blues, I could do a valve spring swap with the heads on the motor right.
Valve springs can be swapped with the heads installed. It's not a matter of spring stiffness, the fatigue life of the yellow springs have historically been limited and a number of guys have had a failure that then wiped out the piston. Since this is a new setup for you with springs that have been already run for some time, I would replace them with either new GM springs or an upgrade like the PSI 1511ML springs.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 100
Likes: 3
From: Toronto
got my push rods, but when I install them do I have to push slightly down on them to push down on the lifter out of the tray a bit so it touches the cam?
and how much pressure would you say is necessary? I don't wanna push it to much or the all the way out and down into the crank case or too low and it grinds away at the cam when I start it or some ****..
and how much pressure would you say is necessary? I don't wanna push it to much or the all the way out and down into the crank case or too low and it grinds away at the cam when I start it or some ****..
got my push rods, but when I install them do I have to push slightly down on them to push down on the lifter out of the tray a bit so it touches the cam?
and how much pressure would you say is necessary? I don't wanna push it to much or the all the way out and down into the crank case or too low and it grinds away at the cam when I start it or some ****..
and how much pressure would you say is necessary? I don't wanna push it to much or the all the way out and down into the crank case or too low and it grinds away at the cam when I start it or some ****..
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 100
Likes: 3
From: Toronto
Thanks 1970camaro got them down on the cams slight pressure.
What is everyone's take/tip on rocker arms ?
Tighten all at 22ft lbs ?
Tighten the ones down then the ones up rotate the crank
OR the 10000 ways that are confusing ?
What is everyone's take/tip on rocker arms ?
Tighten all at 22ft lbs ?
Tighten the ones down then the ones up rotate the crank
OR the 10000 ways that are confusing ?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 100
Likes: 3
From: Toronto
How would I know if its at TDC? my front cover is still on, and engine is in the car.
I know I can put my finger over the sparkplug hole and feel the compression but once the compression is done the piston still has to go up a bit more to get to TDC no?
So how would I know when its exactly at TDC with the front cover on ?
I know I can put my finger over the sparkplug hole and feel the compression but once the compression is done the piston still has to go up a bit more to get to TDC no?
So how would I know when its exactly at TDC with the front cover on ?