cwm33

I'm currently looking at picking out a cam for my 01 Camaro with the M6. The car will likely be 95% street, 5% drag strip.

I have a set of 799 heads that I'm planning to get a valve job done on, ported, and polished. I'm also still debating over the LS6 intake, or splurging on the Fast 92mm if the gains are worth it.

Anyway, to the point, I'm currently looking at the Tick TorqueMAX SNS Stage 2 Cam, and my buddy is suggesting I go with a different grind. I'm trying to learn about the differences between them, but I'm coming up a bit short in terms of how it will actually relate to the butt dyno, usable lower RPM power, and idle characteristics.

Tick TorqueMAX: 227/235 .618/.605 110+3
Friend's Suggestion: 232/238 .620/.603 111+2

Bspeck82

I disagree with your friend. In a weekend warrior then MAYBE. That cam will have more overlap thus more bucking and surging and cruising down the freeway in 6th will be horrid. I would go one step smaller then what you picked. A mid 220 intake duration and around 550 - 600 lift. I would keep overlap right around 0 at .050 for a 95 percent street car. And yes it will still sound cool. Lobe designs are usually kept secret, for reference take the advertised duration and duration at 50 and subtract, the smaller the number the faster the ramp rate which means means more power but at a cost of potentially beating up your valve train. (This Means buy good stuff) Many lobes are asymmetric. They open fast and close slow for less valve train chatter and wear. I always recommend calling the people who make the and ask them. And call more than one...

cwm33

His suggestion might be my own fault, as I always drool over the youtube vids of the really lopey cammed engines, so he suggested that as something that would sound very old school muscle car.

The thing I like about the Tick cam is the power range starts off at 1800 RPM, so it shouldn't leave me gutless in the lower RPM ranges (I think).

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

That tick cam will be better, but being on a 110 woth 107icl it wl buck and surge a bit cruising on your m6 and in parking lots. A 112 or 114 even would be a lot better and wouldnt make much less power. It wouldnt "sound as choppy" but it would be still very noticeable. Adding 373s would fix that.

There are quite a few new comp lobes not alot of people know about. quite a few are similar to the tick cam.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

I agree the Tick cam is the better choice of the 2. With a good tune it should drive pretty good

cwm33

I took a peek at my rear diff, and I actually do have 3.73 gears in there already, so would it behave reasonably well with that while cruising?

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

The Titan 4 has a nice lope, but will buck less. It also makes great power. It is our most popular shelf cam for daily driven LS performance.
http://store.cammotion.com/mobile/the-titan4

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

3.73 is not a stock ratio, so i assume its been changed. 3.42s came on the m6.

cwm33

The Titan 4 looks like it has a narrower RPM Range than the TorqueMAX, how is it for horsepower gains?


Yup I'm running a Moser 12 bolt rear diff.

Bspeck82

Don't worry much about peak numbers. Find something that will operate within your usable rpm range. I know that he torque max cam will buck and surge at low rpm, if you can deal with that then its perfect. I would personally go smaller as to have it drive near stock. If high horsepower numbers your goal then should look at 230+ cams, tight centerlines short gears and more stall. This won't fun to drive on the street though.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

Its an m6 with 3.73 so he can get by with a little more but still a 230s cam would need some spark taken out to keep it from surging and bucking...or just widen the lsa a bit.

cwm33

Can't the bucking/surging be taken care of via a good tune?

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

No. The only way to smooth it out is taking out spark and smoothing, intentionally running it rich, or adding more air than needed. Cutting on a wider lsa helps more than a workaround on the tune. or higher gears.

Bspeck82

A good compromise would be perhaps a 227/233 on a 113 advanced 4 degrees with <600 lift with asymmetrical lobes that ride up fast and let the lifter down gently. This would be my limit for a street cam in my opinion in regards to what I deem streetable.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

I recommended nearly that same cam about an hour ago.

CAMMOTION PERF

Here is a break down of the valve events and the overlap:



If you notice the intake valve open at .050" lift circled in green, you will see that Titan IV has a 2 degree later intake valve close. This will help the camshaft extend the RPM range upward slightly. But the big difference between these two camshaft is the overlap (items circled in red). The 2nd camshaft has 11 degrees of overlap compared to the Titan 4's 3.5 degrees of overlap @.050" of lift.

11 degrees of overlap is going to have a a strong lope at idle and more bucking at low speeds at part throttle like you might experience in slow moving traffic or driving through a parking lot. With that said, the additional overlap can help upper RPM and peak power output. So, it is a trade between drivability and high RPM power.

It just depends on what you want as far as personality and drivability vs all out power. There is always some compromise in a street driven car. You just have to decide.