installed rods, now crank feels seized up
#1
installed rods, now crank feels seized up
so crank spins perfect in the main caps. installed pistons and rods today and did 15ft pounds followed by the 85 degrees of torque angle and now the crank feels like it's almost seized. 85 degrees seems like it's way over torqued. any tips on what i should look out for? with the stock rod bolts, is there a set ft lbs that i can use instead of the 85 degrees?
some things to keep in mind:
- i've plastigauged everything and it's all to spec
- i've tried 55 degrees thinking i had the first version of the rod caps/bolts. still same issue but not as bad as 85 degrees
- crank spins a lot better after loosening up rod caps
some things to keep in mind:
- i've plastigauged everything and it's all to spec
- i've tried 55 degrees thinking i had the first version of the rod caps/bolts. still same issue but not as bad as 85 degrees
- crank spins a lot better after loosening up rod caps
#6
yes they are stock rod bolts and rods. they came out of an LM7.
they were installed/pressed by the machine shop, so i'm hoping they are, but i should probably double check. the flat edge of the rod cap is facing the front of the engine.
i believe 6 out of 8 were to spec perfectly when i plastigauged them but one of them wasn't squished. might redo them tomorow
a friend mentioned it might be that, but when the rod caps are loose and at 15ft torque with no degree torque, they spin perfectly with no resistance. rechecking that the pistons/rings aren't jammed up might be a last resort if i can't find anything else but if they seem to cycle fine when the caps are loose, it leads me to believe that it's either a bent rod or bearing out of spec/mispackaged.
i believe 6 out of 8 were to spec perfectly when i plastigauged them but one of them wasn't squished. might redo them tomorow
a friend mentioned it might be that, but when the rod caps are loose and at 15ft torque with no degree torque, they spin perfectly with no resistance. rechecking that the pistons/rings aren't jammed up might be a last resort if i can't find anything else but if they seem to cycle fine when the caps are loose, it leads me to believe that it's either a bent rod or bearing out of spec/mispackaged.
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#8
nothing on backwards but i will be double checking that today. none of the tangs are out of place that's for sure but again, sometime i will end up double checking later too just in case one popped off during the installation process.
#11
#12
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
Hate to say it but I agree 100%, I encourage people to do their work when possible but at some point they either won't have the tools or skill to do it right. When I read "i believe 6 out of 8 were to spec perfectly when i plastigauged them but one of them wasn't squished" That tells me they are in over their head and chances are the outcome will be other posts with titles like.... What's this noise/No oil pressure/Metal in my oil/locked up? and so on.
#13
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
The crank has a rolled fillet so it shouldn't really matter which way the rods or bearings are facing.
If it's really seizing up, then you may want to go back and make sure everything is clean and clearances are adequate. I clean everything with acetone on a paper towel before assembly. Any little dirt or debris behind the bearings can close up the clearances and cause it to seize.
#14
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Sounds to me like the big ends of those rods need to meet a sunnen hone machine I've seen rerorqued factory bolts distort the bore by as much as .001"
Pulled up GM spec with oil on threads and EPL under the bolt heads.
They needed a few honing strokes and were perfect in diameter specs and no need for the .002" over stuff.
Pulled up GM spec with oil on threads and EPL under the bolt heads.
They needed a few honing strokes and were perfect in diameter specs and no need for the .002" over stuff.
#19
FormerVendor
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Rod Side Clearence
Hi, the best tech was from "Happysalesman" with the ONLY remark that the rods where installed with "flats" to Journal Fillet. (backwards)
NOW if the "flats" can be observed, there IS a difference !
What is the rod Side Clearance ?
My method is the observe the rod "touch" each journal "flat" with a easy slide in BOTH directions.
The rods "kiss" each other AND each Journal.
When one rod is found NOT to "slide", the above "tech" is well noted.
Lance
NOW if the "flats" can be observed, there IS a difference !
What is the rod Side Clearance ?
My method is the observe the rod "touch" each journal "flat" with a easy slide in BOTH directions.
The rods "kiss" each other AND each Journal.
When one rod is found NOT to "slide", the above "tech" is well noted.
Lance
#20
This is a serious problem... All rod and main bearings must have the correct clearance. Engine building 101. You will have problems on the first startup if this is not corrected.