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Old Jun 28, 2004 | 07:51 PM
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Why do those two make it so lean? And, I'm very confused as to which cam I should get (in terms of bang for the buck, CAN PASS EMISSIONS without a problem, has a little bit of a lope to it, and wont make me contribute every paycheck to replacing the valvetrain).

Last edited by ArcticZ28; Jun 28, 2004 at 08:06 PM.
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Old Jun 28, 2004 | 10:23 PM
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here is my car from last year, M6/3.42 10 bolt, LS6 intake, mac headers/orp, pulley, lid, good tune, then added a 216/220 comp cam, then added a set of TEA 1.5 5.3 heads (10.5 CR).

The 216/220 is a decent cam but for some odd reason its fairly noisy valvetrain-wise, I replaced it with a 222/224 112 XE comp and picked up 13rwhp peak and a couple ft/lbs torque but it was a lot quieter for some odd reason, same springs.
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 11:27 AM
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Lots of good info here about the Comp stuff, I decided to purchase the 216/220 114 for the following reasons, in the following order:

1). low lift and moderate (relatively as per Comp tech) ramps, EXCELLENT for spring life. With quality duals on board, I would estimate time to replace would rival OEM
2). great gains from area under the curve, good low end tq cam. However doesn't run out of steam up top, not a peak cam by any means
3). peaks ~ 6k RPM +-
4). TC not required
5). pretty stealthy idle if initial set right and tuned
6). power potential of much bigger cams (as stated earlier) i.e., 400+ rwhp

If you can find another cam that satisfies all of these requirements, I would be surprised. Luck Good!
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 11:33 AM
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I have to say I'm quite attracted to this cam the more i hear about it.
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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
And this 224/224 cam from Comp will be fine for my daily driving needs? Will I have to upgrade springs/pushrods? What all will need to be upgraded along with this for protection?
Ditto on this question, Im thinking of getting the comp 224 cam
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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by WhitePheonix
Ditto on this question, Im thinking of getting the comp 224 cam
With tuning, the Comp 224/224* cam will be a suitable daily driver with a noticable but not pronounced lope. And, yes you will need to upgrade the springs and pushrods. You need to do that with any cam upgrade (Z06 cam only requires spring upgrades).

Last edited by soliari; Jul 1, 2004 at 02:06 PM.
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 10:18 AM
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Look at Thunder Racing site. They have a dyno graph of the 216/220 Comp Cam. 402rwhp with pulley, LT, BBK 80mm and Lid I believe.

I've had that cam sitting with me for 2 months. Saving for some heads. After much reading, I was going to get rid of it and go bigger.
Decided to put more money into heads, and with 1.8:1 ratio rockers HS, I can bump the lifts a little so the 216/220 becomes
216/220 .556/.563 114 lsa

I'm trying to break 420+rwhp with that cam.
We will see.

Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; Jul 1, 2004 at 08:02 PM.
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 10:38 AM
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Will the 216/220 have any problems passing emissions?
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Will the 216/220 have any problems passing emissions?
do they test tail pipe emissions in your state? If you have CATS you should be fine.
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 12:50 PM
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OH YEP, they test em. And I do have CATs.
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 02:15 PM
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That cam has a negative degree of overlap (-10)
So passing emissions with the right tune is noooo problem.
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 04:44 PM
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The Comp 216/220 idles steady at 750rpm, drives good, passes smog, gets good mileage. I used Z06 springs on it; good for 100k.
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 07:52 AM
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Sweet, sounds like my best bet at the moment.
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 02:54 PM
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My 216/220 idles at a tuned 750rpms, drives well, gets good mileage, passes smog, etc. I also used the 2003 Z06 springs.
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by highgear
The Comp 216/220 idles steady at 750rpm, drives good, passes smog, gets good mileage. I used Z06 springs on it; good for 100k.
Z06 springs, eh? That might be a nicer way to go about it...with OEM R&D hopefully the seat pressure would stay within spec for several thousand miles. After picking up a pre-owned 216/220 for ~200 that would cap off a great budget cam swap, since I can utilize at least stock retainers rockers & lifters...at least for the time being.
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 08:39 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
I called up Comp cams and told them that I was looking for a cam that would be very streetable but also produced a higher level of hp gains. I don't want to have to be switching springs every 3k miles, so I want something that's not too extremem but enough to produce some good numbers. The guy recommended me the Extreme RPM 216/220/114lsa cam, saying this would be best for my use. But, I can't help but question this. All I hear about is how awesome the TR224 cams are and how everyone is using them and raving. I don't want some wimpy 216 cam if I can use a solid 224 cam without problems. I know everyone will have alot of input for this... and that's exactly what I'm looking for. I have all stock internals and I'd like to know what everyone thinks would best suit me. Thanks alot. (BTW, this is a daily driver and must remain so I HAVE to pass emissions with no problems)

I would say some twin cams would work great.
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ICONZ28
I would say some twin cams would work great.
I recently installed a TR220/220 .553/.553 112 LSA kit and IMHO it seems to be a great cam for passing emissions, yet, strong enough to give me respectable power, considering my setup, i.e., shorties, Random Tech Y w/high-flow cats and Borlas. Streetability is great.

BTW, the kit came with ALL GM gaskets, TR 7.4 chrome-moly rods, Comp 918 springs w/titanium retainers, so, if you need to go bigger (and you probably will), you won't have to do a spring change. From my understanding, the TR cams are comp cams and with TR's custom grind.

Hope this helps you.
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 09:57 PM
  #38  
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hmm ... i was under the impression that TR cams are ground by Lunati
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Old Jul 3, 2004 | 01:18 AM
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with the 216/220 cam I ran 12.1 on motor w/o a tune or headers
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Old Jul 3, 2004 | 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimmyz
Yep. Key IMHO being the Stage II heads w/ the smaller cam. There are guys making 400+ rwhp with full bolt-ons and stock haeds (which this guy has) but they are much bigger cams. I still say w/a 99 stock motor/intake and shorties he should not expect much more than 360-375rwhp. But WTF do I know.

BTW, you should change your spings when you do a new cam, no question.
You don't need after market heads to make 400 hp. Look at my numbers. It would make over 400 rwhp and 390 rwtq through a 10bolt and a cut out. I made almost 400 through a 12 bolt w/ 4.11 through 3 inch single exhaust. I ran 17 inch SS wheels and a stock belt. No dyno tricks. This thing hauls *** and will idle at 750 rpm. I am making more power than other cars with larger cams. Also, my cam uses a 220 xe-r lobe on the intake and a 220 xe lobe on the exhaust side with a 112 lsa. Pretty mild compared to other cams and in has -4 or 6 overlap. I hope this helps. Baby cams are where its at.

Our stock heads flow better than a lot of gen 1 and 2 after market cams. Will after market heads help? Sure. But, I have also seen a few people only make 5 to 10 extra ponies up top and lose torque down low. Think about it. If you are going with a large cam, I thinks heads would help but don't go over board. I just saw an article in CHP where they made 670 hp and 675 rwhp with some small 180cc AFR heads that flowed a little more than ours.

Good luck!
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