Recommended this cam...
#21
Why do those two make it so lean? And, I'm very confused as to which cam I should get (in terms of bang for the buck, CAN PASS EMISSIONS without a problem, has a little bit of a lope to it, and wont make me contribute every paycheck to replacing the valvetrain).
Last edited by ArcticZ28; 06-28-2004 at 08:06 PM.
#22
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here is my car from last year, M6/3.42 10 bolt, LS6 intake, mac headers/orp, pulley, lid, good tune, then added a 216/220 comp cam, then added a set of TEA 1.5 5.3 heads (10.5 CR).
The 216/220 is a decent cam but for some odd reason its fairly noisy valvetrain-wise, I replaced it with a 222/224 112 XE comp and picked up 13rwhp peak and a couple ft/lbs torque but it was a lot quieter for some odd reason, same springs.
The 216/220 is a decent cam but for some odd reason its fairly noisy valvetrain-wise, I replaced it with a 222/224 112 XE comp and picked up 13rwhp peak and a couple ft/lbs torque but it was a lot quieter for some odd reason, same springs.
#23
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Lots of good info here about the Comp stuff, I decided to purchase the 216/220 114 for the following reasons, in the following order:
1). low lift and moderate (relatively as per Comp tech) ramps, EXCELLENT for spring life. With quality duals on board, I would estimate time to replace would rival OEM
2). great gains from area under the curve, good low end tq cam. However doesn't run out of steam up top, not a peak cam by any means
3). peaks ~ 6k RPM +-
4). TC not required
5). pretty stealthy idle if initial set right and tuned
6). power potential of much bigger cams (as stated earlier) i.e., 400+ rwhp
If you can find another cam that satisfies all of these requirements, I would be surprised. Luck Good!
1). low lift and moderate (relatively as per Comp tech) ramps, EXCELLENT for spring life. With quality duals on board, I would estimate time to replace would rival OEM
2). great gains from area under the curve, good low end tq cam. However doesn't run out of steam up top, not a peak cam by any means
3). peaks ~ 6k RPM +-
4). TC not required
5). pretty stealthy idle if initial set right and tuned
6). power potential of much bigger cams (as stated earlier) i.e., 400+ rwhp
If you can find another cam that satisfies all of these requirements, I would be surprised. Luck Good!
#25
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
And this 224/224 cam from Comp will be fine for my daily driving needs? Will I have to upgrade springs/pushrods? What all will need to be upgraded along with this for protection?
#26
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Originally Posted by WhitePheonix
Ditto on this question, Im thinking of getting the comp 224 cam
Last edited by soliari; 07-01-2004 at 02:06 PM.
#27
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Look at Thunder Racing site. They have a dyno graph of the 216/220 Comp Cam. 402rwhp with pulley, LT, BBK 80mm and Lid I believe.
I've had that cam sitting with me for 2 months. Saving for some heads. After much reading, I was going to get rid of it and go bigger.
Decided to put more money into heads, and with 1.8:1 ratio rockers HS, I can bump the lifts a little so the 216/220 becomes
216/220 .556/.563 114 lsa
I'm trying to break 420+rwhp with that cam.
We will see.
I've had that cam sitting with me for 2 months. Saving for some heads. After much reading, I was going to get rid of it and go bigger.
Decided to put more money into heads, and with 1.8:1 ratio rockers HS, I can bump the lifts a little so the 216/220 becomes
216/220 .556/.563 114 lsa
I'm trying to break 420+rwhp with that cam.
We will see.
Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; 07-01-2004 at 08:02 PM.
#35
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Originally Posted by highgear
The Comp 216/220 idles steady at 750rpm, drives good, passes smog, gets good mileage. I used Z06 springs on it; good for 100k.
#36
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
I called up Comp cams and told them that I was looking for a cam that would be very streetable but also produced a higher level of hp gains. I don't want to have to be switching springs every 3k miles, so I want something that's not too extremem but enough to produce some good numbers. The guy recommended me the Extreme RPM 216/220/114lsa cam, saying this would be best for my use. But, I can't help but question this. All I hear about is how awesome the TR224 cams are and how everyone is using them and raving. I don't want some wimpy 216 cam if I can use a solid 224 cam without problems. I know everyone will have alot of input for this... and that's exactly what I'm looking for. I have all stock internals and I'd like to know what everyone thinks would best suit me. Thanks alot. (BTW, this is a daily driver and must remain so I HAVE to pass emissions with no problems)
I would say some twin cams would work great.
#37
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Similar setup ...
Originally Posted by ICONZ28
I would say some twin cams would work great.
BTW, the kit came with ALL GM gaskets, TR 7.4 chrome-moly rods, Comp 918 springs w/titanium retainers, so, if you need to go bigger (and you probably will), you won't have to do a spring change. From my understanding, the TR cams are comp cams and with TR's custom grind.
Hope this helps you.
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Originally Posted by Jimmyz
Yep. Key IMHO being the Stage II heads w/ the smaller cam. There are guys making 400+ rwhp with full bolt-ons and stock haeds (which this guy has) but they are much bigger cams. I still say w/a 99 stock motor/intake and shorties he should not expect much more than 360-375rwhp. But WTF do I know.
BTW, you should change your spings when you do a new cam, no question.
BTW, you should change your spings when you do a new cam, no question.
Our stock heads flow better than a lot of gen 1 and 2 after market cams. Will after market heads help? Sure. But, I have also seen a few people only make 5 to 10 extra ponies up top and lose torque down low. Think about it. If you are going with a large cam, I thinks heads would help but don't go over board. I just saw an article in CHP where they made 670 hp and 675 rwhp with some small 180cc AFR heads that flowed a little more than ours.
Good luck!